The Black Pearl

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 8




Make S-shaped hook
Anneal a 0.5mm brass wire to make it easier to process.



I am processing the tip of pliers made by 100 yen shop. Jig for S-shaped hook production.



The tip is processed in this way.
It's just a shaving, but it's a special jig.
FD-043 of FLING DUTCH MAN production note

FD-043

You appear in (laughs)!
Do the same thing to make an S-shaped hook!



Anodized 0.5mm brass wire...


Turn it around...


Change the pinch position...



If you turn it around...


It looks like this...



If you cut it with a snap, the S-shaped hook will be finished.


I was able to do this. But that's all for today. Ah! !


After making the S-shaped hook, I also made eyebolts and rings, and dyed the eyebolts black with gun black.
The ring is for train vehicles. I only need twelve, but there are more.


Make the ring an eyebolt for the traintail.
Wrap the wire harness (use the wire attached to the tag)...



Tighten the winding part...


Then, cut it to an appropriate length.



I made 14 pieces. Two are spares.


I dyed it in gun black.



I also dyed the S-shaped hook with gun black.
Next is the pulley...



It is a pulley for gantry. As with the production of the FD, the single pulley is machined
from a 1.5×1.5 mm square bar and the double pulley is machined from a 2×2 mm square bar.
I had a lot of work to do, so I couldn't quite make a model, but now I can do it. However,
this pulley isn't detailed... I'm tired.



I tried to make one gantry.
I need 23 more (sweat)
Maybe I should make a bleaching rope first (laughs)



It's boring to work with pulleys, so let's do something different.
Pay attention to the red circle in the photo. Apparently it's like a cannon storage area.
Looking at the drawing, you can see that three cannonballs are placed on each side of the cannon.
When I made the 1/60 BP, there was no such image, so I looked at the drawing and determined
that it was pin rail, but it was a mistake.
And the train train ring isn't on the deck. Since it's a shooting set,
did you remove it to prevent the actor from snagging and falling?
There is also a shooting set with a ring for train trains.
So I'll attach the ring for train train later.



I tried to make parts immediately.
Manufactured from 1mm thick and 3mm wide cypress, the length is about 8mm.



I stuck it on both sides.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Pay attention to the above picture and arrow! !
The bleaching rope is attached to the top of the bulwark.
Gunticle is installed under the bulwark...
I guess this is the setting in this movie.
Normally it's the other way around?
Well, make it just like the movie.
Now, do you want to mass-produce pulleys?

It seems that it will take time to make a pulley for a gantry...
It is too small and it breaks while making it, which is a little troublesome.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 9




Mass production of pulleys for gantry has been completed, so it is the next work process.
Tie the S-shaped hook to the two-hole pulley
It is a workbench for making pulleys when the FD number was manufactured.
I'll use the red circle.


First, the two-hole pulley.


Pass it through the two brass wires and prepare it.


Preparation for S-shaped hook
Thread the black thread through the S-shaped hook.


Tighten it tightly, attach an instant adhesive and harden it.


Make a loop with thread and tie it up.


Tie the two-hole pulley and attach the instant adhesive to the tied place and secure it so that it will not untie.
It is completed by cutting excess threads.


Tie the S-shaped hook to the one-hole pulley
I took a lot of pictures, so I will explain the work process in detail.


One hole pulley through the brass wire
Preparation...


Put the S-shaped hook under preparation.


Attach the bottom of the S-shaped hook to the pulley with an instant adhesive.


Tie the threads and harden them with an instant adhesive.


I will make more loops with strings and bind them.


Stop while completely tied up.


Pass the 0.5mm brass wire through the ring.


Tighten it tightly and fasten it with an instant adhesive.


Cut excess thread and remove the brass wire to complete the process.


For the one-hole pulley, make a ring on the opposite side of the S-hook.
This loop is for binding the guntail rope.
The pulley and S-hook situation is already overscaled. (Lol)
It is a commemorative photo with a pulley without an S-shaped hook.
It is a photo shoot with a ruler.
You can see the size!
The ruler's 10 units are mm (laughs)
Pathological work... wwww


Then, let's take a picture with both one-hole pulley and two-hole pulley arranged side by side.
One hole pulley is about 8mm with S-shaped hook and ring.
The two-hole pulley is about 6.5mm with an S-shaped hook.
To make it smaller than this, I would have to make an S-shaped hook by etching,
make a block on the pulley and stick the thread on it.
Well, I say I can't make a pulley smaller than this.
It's really unhealthy work. (Lol)


Mass production of the first pulley parts completed!
Alright, stupid.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Mass production of second pulley parts completed!
I think...what is the fun of making pulleys...ww
Rigging requires several times more pulleys... well, let's think then... (laughs)




Now, it is the work to tie the rope to the first pulley. Put the first pulley on the brass wire and prepare it.




First through the rope under the pulley.




Glue the rope with instant glue.




Tie the rope with a thin thread.




Apply the instant adhesive, cut the extra thread when it hardens, and complete the rope tie!




From here, it is the construction of gun gun. Prepare the first pulley and the second pulley with the rope tied up.




Pass the rope of the first pulley through either hole of the second pulley.




Pass the rope
through the hole of the first pulley




Pass the rope that passed through the first pulley through the other hole of the second pulley.




Make the rope familiar and complete the gun tackle.
You need one for each cannon, so you need 23 more.
Last time, I used a black thread for the rope in the guntail that I assembled as a sample,
but it was a bit too thin. So I split it and reassembled the S-hook...
Ah, it's just twice a hassle...
Because I don't plan properly (laughs)
But it's a scratch so you can make it from anywhere. There aren't any assembly instructions!
That's all for today.
Mass production of gun-tales will start tomorrow. Threading a thread through a 0.5mm hole is also troublesome.
It's myopic presbyopia, so it's bifocal glasses for the time being, but it's not fitting anymore..
. I'm working off the glasses and clinging to the table, so my eyes are tired immediately and the work does not last long.
It can not be helped…

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 10




I found this image on the net.
I am shooting the statues on both sides of the BP captain's room door from Gunport. The cannon doesn't seem to be set yet.



I shot a 1/72 model without a cannon at the same angle...
Gunport is blurred!
What are you doing... I...
It's not the same because the sizes are different.
In addition, there is a statue on the other side of the door...
Ah.



Well, it's a guntail, but I managed to mass-produce it.
I also tried it on the cannon carriage.



The carriage of the cannon is up.
The gun tail is attached like this.
After all, it's a bit overscaled. whatever.



It's a gun gun up.



Next is the bleaching rope work.
Attach the eyebolt to the end of the rope.



Pass the rope through the eyebolt loop, bend the rope, and bond with a woodworking bond.



Bend the rope and bond it with a woodwork bond, tie it with a thin thread and complete!



Mass production completed!
It took a long time.



I set it on the cannon. The rope is a stick because it is coated with a woodworking bond to keep it fluffy.
However, if you use water, you can attach it to the hull with a natural feeling.



I set it just under the stairs in front of the captain's room. It feels natural!
Wet the ropes with water, and when the woodworking bond melts and becomes softer, tweak it with tweezers
so that it feels natural, and then just wait for the water to dry... .. Then, the ropes are glued to the deck.
I hope you can do it as many times as you like.



This is the cannon on the port side. The ropes look natural.
The left and right parts cannot be set after attaching the stairs, so set them up first.



This part will be invisible when the stairs are attached, so I will take a photo.
The next work will make the stairs.



I'm making stairs, but I say it's real, the stairs of BP for movie shooting,
Observe the handrails on the terrace and stairs, the pillars of the handrails, etc.
There are 10 steps on the stairs,
There are 11 handrails on the terrace.
There are six rails on each of the handrails on the stairs, which are thinner than the terrace.
The last pillar of the handrail is similar to the terrace pillar.
It's a bit tough to reproduce this at 1/72...
Is it OK if it looks like this photo?



I am making a jig to bend a tree and bending the tree for the stairs.
Soak the cypress in water to absorb enough water, bend it, put it in a jig
and secure it with disposable chopsticks and a rubber band. Leave it overnight.



The next day, when you remove it from the jig, as you can see, the parts of the staircase part
of the end spread are completed.



I carved the groove of the tread with an electric circular saw (Circus saw by Proxon) and assembled the tread.
The tread is too thick, so let's attack Usus later.
I can see the grooved part, so I will put a decorative plate later.



I tried to carve out the pillars of the handrail of the stairs.
It is 6 on one side. It looks like it's carved into the same shape, but it's not very similar.



In this way, the height is adjusted and cut!



Adhere the columns to the stairs and set the columns to a brass wire of 0.5 mm.



A little to the hull, try a ride.
The cannon was hidden on the stairs.
Well, is it like this?
Stairs had flew white.



Cutting in the chopper the round part of the final part of the handrail.



mellpapa chopper of the final prototype, big success (laughs)
Helping to approximate a circular cut-out.



Adhesion of the handrail part.
Strut seemed a little too long and was cut about 2mm after the photo shoot.



From here, it is the work of the handrail of the terrace part. The thickness of the post is still,
is over-scale but to proceed without worrying.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Stand up and take a commemorative photo... Each post is made one by one, but the shapes are not uniform... Tears.


Like this make all the posts ...
Brilliantly posts ragged ...
Look at the whole it!
Please ignore fine thing. (Lol)


Taken from the left diagonal


Shot from the right oblique


In, it is temporarily assembled.
Hmmm ...
Well, ... wonder if that became to feel similar?
Characteristic part of the Black Pearl,
flared stairs, really the other,
base too hard!
It stairs cry modeler.
That's the difficulty level of 100% ...
Ah…
Is my crafting skill immature?
It can not be helped.
Also, I have to make four stairs...I have one handrail...It's awkward to make a handrail pillar.
But, it does not move forward and not make it.
Well, let's go at our own pace.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 11

Looking at the following images, Mellpapa uses techniques of painting and washes that give the ship a sense of realism. You see this type of work more in model railroad modeling to show aged or weathered wood, rust, and usage, it is rarely done in model ships. Most all model ships you see have a clean polished look with white Holly decks that look like no one ever set foot on them, everything is perfect. Mellpapa has captured the feel of a pirate ship that looks like it sailed around the world, fought battles and gone through storms. It tell a story.








The handrail and stairs made with BP1-72-10 were painted and glued.
I took some photos, so I will post them below.
There is no photo description.



It is a work of the stairs down to the gun deck.
The stairs on the bow side have a simple handrail made of square timber.
There are various handrails that may or may not be attached to each scene in the movie.
It's time to interpret it as removable.
It is a railing and a pillar of the deck. This pillar is also quite troublesome, but it was carved out of the timber.
The stairs in the center of the ship, the handrails here are ropes.
The pillar is made of iron and has a ring attached to it, through which the rope is passed.
The stanchions are not shown in the photo, but made of 0.5mm brass wire.




The handrail support is attached like this.
This is four pillars inside



There are two struts in here.



Each is painted and drying.



Adhesion of stairs on the bow side and adhesion of handrails
Tight bond is used as the adhesive.



Stairs and handrails seen from above.



Here, the stairs in the center and the handrails are ropes. The pillar is a brass wire.



Take a picture of the railing of the handrail from the angle from the side.



Shooting the stairs at an angle from above.



Fomare fife rail and stairs on both sides of the bow tower, the center of the lower part
is a column for the rope handrail of the stairs, and both sides are pin rails for the main mast,
which are attached to the bulwarks on both sides.
All made from cypress.



Each temporary group



that? The temporary assembly of the stairs on the port side is
wrong (laugh)
I didn't notice it when I took the picture.
Tohoho.
Shame on you.



Since this pillar is also thin, should I make it? This is a machined piece of 3 x 3 mm square timber.
If it is thinner than this, it will be a 2 x 2 mm square bar. There is a problem in strength if you
cut it with 2 mm square wood in this way.
The thickness is overscale.
But this is all right.



It is a general view of the bow with the angle slightly lowered.



The red circle on the starboard side is the pin rail.
that? Www with my feet in the distance



The red circle on the port side is the pin rail.



Eight belay pins are included.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Belay pins are carved
out using the tip of a toothpick .
I need about 52, so
I will do my best in mass production.



It is a close-up photo of Belay Pin. It's about 7 mm, so if you multiply it by 72, you get 50.4 cm
Is it a little overscaled?
It may not be a little...
The thickness is also overscaled, but it is impossible for me to make it thinner than this, so I will use this thickness.



I got
tired of cutting 38 belay pins .
So I painted the unpainted parts
This is a picture during drying.



This is the paint and thinner that I mainly use for painting the 1/72 Black Pearl .
As you can see, A is thinner.
B and C are lacquer oil stains,
B is oak, C is walnut,
D is matte black in Mr. color
, German gray, and E and F are washin
wood oils in oak and light oak




Since the painted parts were dry, I glued them together.
Pay attention to the fore-mast fife rails!
Paint the belay pins as much as you can and set up!




There are port stairs, rope handrail posts, and ring pins. Ring pins are also attached to the pillars of the fife rail.
A rope is stretched here to serve as a handrail. The tight bond is not dry yet, so I'll stretch the rope later.



Starboard stairs and rope handrail support. Here too, I will pull the rope on the ring pin later.




Belay pin of fife rail on the front side of the fore mast.




Only two pin rails and belay pins on the port side of the main mast are made.




There is no pin rail or belay pin on the starboard side of the main mast.




There are 10 belay pins and fif rails of the Mizun Must.
If I don't cut 14 belay pins, it's so small that my eyes get tired...
Tohoho...

 

[Kurt Konrath]

Great set of photos on deck work.

You should also add your block rigging photos to the Basic rigging help topic for beginners like me to learn from.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 12




Make cleats
Parts are cut into cleats from 1×2 mm square lumber.




The pedestal plate is made of 1 x 5 mm cypress.
You can make a cleat with 4 parts.




Glue the four parts together and sandpaper to finish!
It's a bit overscaled, but it stays the same (laughs)




It is clear that the cleat is small compared to the 10-yen coin.




6 pieces are required, so mass production!
2 more.




6 pieces are completed.
I don't have the same shape...
Tohoho...
Well, it's okay because they aren't next to each other. I will continue to do this.




Oil stain walnut with the same color as the BP skin.
After drying, attach it to the bulwark.




Attach it to the port front bulwark. I also attached it to the starboard side.




Also attached to the port side bulwark. I also attached it on the starboard side.




It is a work of the support plate of the stern counter.
There is a cleat on the left and right of the middle plate. I didn't notice when I made 1/60 BP.




It is in temporary assembly.




Painting with walnut oil stain. Waiting for drying…




Since it is dried, it is glued to the position where it was temporarily assembled.
The red arrow part glued the waterway.
The blue arrow is the cleat I made earlier.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

The blue arrow is the skylight that we made together when we made the bay window of the captain's room. I glued it.



Capstan (hoisting machine) work
I cut out the parts to make a capstan.



Assemble the red arrow, first, the drum.



Underneath the drum part, the cylinder part (which seems to be called a welp) and the lower plate are glued,
and the red arrow is the pedestal (pole rim) of the capstan attached to the deck.
The yellow arrow is the part that fastens the rope attached to the capstan tube (welp).



Adhesion of rope winding parts.



Adhesive auxiliary plate indicated by red arrow.



The upper and lower parts of the drum part are coated with a thin paper wrapped around it to make steps.
After that, a chain was attached to the tubular portion (welp).
The chain is a little overscaled.
I'm sure there should have been a thinner chain than this, but... I can't find it...
If a chain thinner than this appears later, replace it.



I put it on a pedestal with a shackle. The chain is thick, so I'm kinda relieved...
that? Something is missing...
Oh! ! …I forgot to make the pawl…
Let's make it.



The red arrow part is the capstan pawl (pole).
Together with the pedestal (pole rim) below, it became a ratchet type reverse rotation prevention device.



No matter how much I searched for, no thin chain came out, so I went to a model shop and bought it.
I also bought wave's HG stainless T ruler.
It seems to be usable for scratch.



So I replaced the chain.
This made me understand the shape of the capstan better, and I felt it.
Are you satisfied?



After making the capstan to be placed on the upper deck, I will set the cannon after that,
so attach the gun tackle to the carriage.



It is a close-up image. Attach the guntail like this. Secure the S-hook with pliers to prevent it from coming off.



A cannon is installed on the upper deck, a capstan is also installed, and the mast is a temporary mast.
Oh, I forgot to attach the ring pin of the traintail to the deck.
I'll put it on later.
When you install a cannon, you can really feel it.
The messy feeling of the rope is irresistible.



It is a part up. The pulley is overscaled, but it doesn't bother me much. It seems that you are familiar with it.
I wonder if I'm self-satisfied.

 

[Danno71]

Dave,
Great capture in physical shape and coloration!
Unmatched in my book!
thanks for all the detailed photos and instructions for all to utilize.
Regards,
Dan

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 13



Make a cat head
This is the red circle in the photo. It's made from 3mm x 3mm cypress.



I don't really understand what it looks like...



Well, it looks like this... I don't know this either.



It is a sideways shooting. The square timber was assembled like this, shaved and the shape was adjusted and painted.



In order to make sure that the pulley is indented, the other end was drilled and sharpened to shape it.
Actually, there are 3 rows of pulleys, but I omitted them in 2 rows.
The 3mm width and 3 rows are a bit tight.




Attach on both sides of the bow side like this.
A support plate is attached under the cat head. Since it has a step on the edge,
it was reproduced on thick paper.



I painted the support board and it looked like this.




These are up close photos.



The edge of the cat head also has steps, so I reproduced it with thick paper and painted it.



There is also a step on the stern side of the cat head, so this is also reproduced with cardboard and painted.



Well, it is a decoration that is attached to the red arrow portion, of the cat head first.
Is it the face of an demon at first? I thought, but it looks like a cat's face.
And I say, such ... It is such a feeling as with a ear to the head with what say or ... a person's face.
Let's be a cat man.



I will stick the board on the 3 x 3 mm square lumber.



Then I will make this.
A 3×3mm square lumber is about 0.5mm, which makes it feel as if it is retracted.
Let's put epoxy putty here and try to make a cat man... will it work?



Put Tamiya's epoxy putty (quick curing type) on top and press it with your thumb's nails.



Excess epoxy putty is scraped off with a cutter.



I'm going to prick it with the tip of the needle and make it the face of a cat guy
like a strange skull
Even though it looks like a cat man, it doesn't look like it... well!
Once the epoxy putty has hardened, soak it in water. The plate attached to the timber
and the cured epoxy putty should come off cleanly.



I tried to mess around with it, but it shouldn't get any better. Let's wait for this to set.




Since the hardened, it has been immersed in water.
It has come off gradually.



I was peeling ... when absorbing it 's what ...
At all, Nha-by appeared to be a cat man Mr. WW
Really, because I'm an extreme clumsiness ... but
I don't want to make it again...
This is the face of a cat man, so I will proceed as it is.



Affix ahead Tcho of cat head, was painted seeded with shredded paper around. This is starboard side.



This is the port side. Who here is kana-ish cat?
Today is up to here. I'm a little tired. Are you old?
Somehow, I made it more finely than the first BP issue...I made it first with 1/60, and now I am making 1/72,
so it's smaller than before.
Although it is presbyopia, the parts are small and it is quite painful, but I'm looking forward to the spiciness..
M? The amount of information has increased dramatically since the 1/60th, and
I have gradually come to understand what I didn't understand.
But there are still some things I don't understand.
By the way, the deck layout of the first movie Black Pearl is different from that of the second and later movies.
There is no Latin sale. The number of rope handrails on the bow side is not one, but two. How to attach an anchor
is also different.
It might be interesting to try and compare them.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Dave,
Great capture in physical shape and coloration!
Unmatched in my book!
thanks for all the detailed photos and instructions for all to utilize.
Regards,
Dan

just look at the image it looks like a pirate ship that has been at sea for a long time. The steps have a depth of color it is an example of high end craftsmanship. Mellpapa uses wood, resin, paint and paper to create this model which goes to show you any material in the hands of an artist produces world class results.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 14



The area around the cat head will continue!
There is something in the red arrow part!
Don't you understand?
There's something hidden in the shadow of the cat head, right?
I understand?
Then up close to the picture below!



I searched on the net because the red arrow part is here...
There was. A picture that clearly shows the
shape is... to
the picture below!



It is the red circle part. What is it for? But... do you know who?
I have no idea.
Bollard? Wonder? ? ?
I'm sure the rope from the pulley of the cathead comes down...
If you know this guy's name, please let me know.
A modeler companion told me that "Fairleader is OK!"
So that's it! Fair leader.
Thank you for teaching me!



Well, for this part, I made a prototype by scraping wood for the time being.



I put it on the left and right handrails. It feels so good, so I decided to mass-produce it.



Black arrows are 3mm x 3mm square timbers lined up side by side and attached.
I made a hole with a drill and cut it to shape it.
The red arrow is the first prototype part.



Black arrows are mass-produced parts.
I have two.



Immediately adhere to the handrail.



It looks like this!　
Ah... the adhesive is sticking out.



Since the adhesive has dried, it is painting.
This is the starboard side.



This is the port side.
I knew what I was worried about, and the parts were well made, but I don't know the name of this part.
You know the name is Fairleader.
Well...
Next are the cat block (pulley), cat hook, and cat tackle.
The cat will continue.



As for the cat block (pulley), I used the 1/60 FD number because it was the right size
for the two-hole pulley when it was produced.
The cat hook was made from 0.5mm brass wire. I made about 5 pieces and finally had 2 shapes.



The cat hook is dyed with gun black.
The Gun Black stock solution is too strong, and the black spots will peel off like a scab.
Be sure to use it diluted with water. Is the ratio about 1:1? I'm diluting it appropriately so that it is about that.



I attached a cat hook to the cat block (pulley).



Set the rope on the cat head and attach the rope to the cat block (pulley) to complete the cat tackle.
This is the starboard side.



This is the port side.



Pull the cattail rope from the top of the cathead to the bulwark side through the bollard fairlead on the handrail .
The bollard is a temporary name and I don't know its name.



The ropes of the cat tail pulled into the bulwark side are summarized like this.
This is good for cat relations.
Puffy, I was able to do it as I expected, so I feel like I've won!
Also, the parts I have to make are Pinnacle, Rat, Rudder, Pintle, Gajon, Belfry, Channel, Deadeye, Chain, Gunport Lid, and Gunport Lid's hinge. .. Ah... I have to make an anchor.
For the time being, let's make it in order!

 

[Jim J]

I am amazed by the level of detail in this model. He is a true master of the art.

 

[Old Man258]

Thank you for the info on the s hooks. I have 20 guns to do the hooks on. Lets see, 2 hook and blocks per line , 3 lines per gun and 20 guns. I be busy for a long time

 

[Bryian]

Great progress Dave.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 15






Make a rat ( i am not sure what a rat is maybe it should translate to wheel)
It is a rat's work in the red arrow part of the photo. How to make is the same method as the following
HP that was done in FD issue.



First, make a drawing...
However, when I make parts, it will never follow the drawing (laugh)
A handle can't be as thin as this... (laughs)



It is a wood pipe with an outer diameter of 15 mm. The thickness is about 3 mm.
I found it at a home center in Nayoro and bought it. I will use this to make rats.
By the way, the FD rat used a wood tube with an outer diameter of 20 mm. This time around,
it's small, so it's quite tough.



Drill 10 0.8mm holes around the edge of the woodwind.
Cut out with a thickness of 2 mm.
Cut the inside to a thickness of 2 mm.
I broke it twice to get here.
This is the third time. I managed to make a hole without breaking it, cut it out to a thickness of 2 mm,
and scrape the inside...
The first time I made a hole and it cracked when I cut it out... orz...returns to fridasi...
The second time, I made a hole and succeeded in cutting out! When I'm on sandpaper... Palin! Return to Fridasi...
When I broke it for the second time, it was the third day since I started working on it,
so I'm really surprised... (laughs)
I slept on the fourth day...



Now that it's been successful the third time, I'll incorporate the handle in the same way as I did with the FD.
The BP rat has a handle directly attached to the rope around which the rope is wound, so the rat is assembled like that.
First, sharpen the toothpick and insert it to reveal the center of the Tyco part.



Shave the toothpick, make a handle and replace it with the "centered toothpick" and adhere.
If you turn it off...



You see, you have a rat.
It's pretty deformed though.
There is a crack when you insert the handle and it looks like a crack...
I rubbed in the instant adhesive and applied sandpaper.



I assembled the base of the rat.
The rope wrapped around Tyco passes through the grating hole.
After this, I made a pillar to support the rat and assembled it.



done. Photo from the front.



Photo from behind.




Left and right photo.



Picture from directly above.



It is a comparison with a 10-yen coin.
It is impossible to make a rat smaller than this...
It may be easier to use plastic as the material...
Well, I don't feel like making a rat any smaller...



Since the adhesive has dried, it is painting.
Apply the woodworking oil and leave it dry, then apply oil stain and wipe it off with a tissue while it is dry.



Wrap the rope around the rope about 7 times and glue it with the back of the grating.



A photo seen from behind.
I think the unevenness feels good.
It took about a week to build the rat and its surroundings. As usual, it was mellpapa whose hands were blunt.
Next, I plan to make a Pinnacle.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 16




Make a pinnacle
It is a pinnacle production of the red arrow part.
There is a compass inside this box, and you steer while watching the compass through the glass.



For the time being, make a drawing.
It's decorated, but if it's this small, it's impossible to reproduce the decoration, so the drawing will be simple.



Parts were cut from 0.6 mm thick aviation veneer.



It has a simple structure, so you can finish it in no time.
Photo from the front.
Ah... I forgot to put in the compass and assembled it...
I didn't see it.



Side photo.



It is a commemorative photo with 10 yen coins painted.