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The Frederick from the Lumberyard

GaryA said:
Thanks Rick,
That made my nerves relax a bit. I was thinking that once you slice into the drawings with a pair of scissors, your chance of proofing is lost. Did you copy it on your home scanner or a specialized printing service?
Anyway, I have a few questions about your model, and if you cannot answer here, you can always private message me.
Question 1: Did you experience any warping or narrowing of the hull once you cut it away from what I call the "Lofting Plate"?
Question 2: Have you or any other model shipbuilders watched the video I found on the net, and what are your Impressions about it?
. Are there any videos on SOS showing a similar method and or improvement to Harold Hahn's method?
Regarding Question 2, I noticed that when he places the Body Plan on each end (I assume), the opposite end Body Plan would need to be printed in an inverted orientation. Is that possible?
I am sure Dave from the Lumberyard could help us all out in this field.
Regards
Gary
Click to expand...
Gary,
Ask as many questioned as needed, search and read other build threads. Your choice of a starting kit is important. When I started my first plank on frame this forum guided me to the Caustic by Dave. His step by step videos help immensely .

I used my home printer/ scanner. I aligned each framing unit at center of printer glass plate for photocopy.

Question 1. I didn’t notice any issues as mentioned.
Question 2. I havent seen this video. I’ll give it a look. . For your build you may find it beneficial to add control points that assist you.
 
"When I started my first plank on frame, this forum guided me to the Caustic by Dave......."
Is there a Harold Hahn method for building up a frame on SOS? BTW, I have scoured the site and did not find it, and of course, may have missed it.
 
Harold Hahn did not fabricate his frames realistically with floors, futtocks, scarf joints and chocks. He took a simpler, more artistic approach using 'butt-joints' to create his frames, as shown below. This image comes from Dave, himself. Once glued, these two separate frames would be glued together forming 'sistered' frames. When cut and sanded to the final shape, these two 'sistered' frames would appear as though they were made via futtocks, as seen from the outside of the ship models. I hope this makes sense. I'm not sure that I explained it very well.

Hahn Framing.jpg
 
Gary,
To add to excellent post here by MThomas please see my early posts showing Hahn method. Also , when I used advanced search on this forum I found Dave Stevens excellent thread School for ship model building March 1, 2025. There is Hahn method information to help.
 
Harold Hahn did not fabricate his frames realistically with floors, futtocks, scarf joints and chocks. He took a simpler, more artistic approach using 'butt-joints

actually the frame blank are floors and futtocks just not shaped to the final frame. Just about all the ships built in North America and including French ships futtocks were butt jointed Chocks were not used.

all the Hahn framing used futtocks which include any of a number of timbers forming the lower, more curved portion of the frame in a wooden hull.
in the Fredrick frame 12 is made up of a floor pink part, futtocks 1 and 2 and the top timber. The sistered part is made up of a lower futtock and the top timber.

frame.JPG
Hahn Framing.jpg
 
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MavRick said:
Gary,
To add to excellent post here by MThomas please see my early posts showing Hahn method. Also , when I used advanced search on this forum I found Dave Stevens excellent thread School for ship model building March 1, 2025. There is Hahn method information to help.
Click to expand...
Hi Rick, I had been to Dave's school, but somehow I jumped through it the first time I looked at it. Now, after following it from the start and starting to get an idea of how a model ship is built, and not getting too bogged down with all the written material, I am forming an understanding of how to build the model.
BTW, I have bought the plans for the Bounty and some of the kit from Dave, and I'm about to start the framing.
I have built small open models of a sailing boat, ie, the Jolly Boat by kit bashing, and also the Stagecoach by the same modeler, mainly kit bashing, also, but saying this, these kits turned me away as they are not true models of the vessels they are supposed to represent.
When I asked online in SOS, Dave responded, and I am pleased I have a model of the ship that is much closer to the original than what Kit makers produce.
I also believe your mind is like a Parachute, and it needs to be opened to make it work. Just hope I can get into the model and let my mind awaken to thinking it through like most hobby modellers do. Harold Hahns did, and so should all of us, being keen to do the same.
Gary
 
Dave Stevens (Lumberyard) said:
Harold Hahn did not fabricate his frames realistically with floors, futtocks, scarf joints and chocks. He took a simpler, more artistic approach using 'butt-joints

actually the frame blank are floors and futtocks just not shaped to the final frame. Just about all the ships built in North America and including French ships futtocks were butt jointed Chocks were not used.

all the Hahn framing used futtocks which include any of a number of timbers forming the lower, more curved portion of the frame in a wooden hull.
in the Fredrick frame 12 is made up of a floor pink part, futtocks 1 and 2 and the top timber. The sistered part is made up of a lower futtock and the top timber.

View attachment 531224
View attachment 531228
Click to expand...
Hi Dave, so what happens in the shipyard happens in the Modellers Table. I have seen that in the drawings, and at first, you have to make a futtock, then add "Sister Futtock" to create one full Futtock. The biggest worry here is not the second Futtock sister but the first, as you would have to lay that onto something flat and butt glue it. So, is glass a good base to use as it doesn't take absorption from glue other than super glue?
It may sound like a basic, stupid question, but I am trying to think what other method to use as it is a very critical point that these Futtocks have to be very flat after gluing. Maybe on a forum, there may be information, but I am like an excited kid in a lolly shop and missed it like I missed your school on modeling.
I also guess this is not the place to ask questions like this.
 
Dave Stevens (Lumberyard) said:
Gary here is what i suggest you do start a build log on the bounty and i can post building frame blanks. i did post it once but finding it is like finding a needle in 1,000 hay stacks.
Click to expand...
I will start a log, but before I do, I have to just ask the silly questions to get to the answer. BTW, I think you were referring to the School of Modelling and I just put in the search "Building Frame Blanks" and that took me right to it. I will have another look. I also did the same for your model of the "Caustic"
 
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