The Schooner Bluenose 1921, POF Yuanqing Models 1:72 [COMPLETED BUILD]
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Yes, thanks for the advice Heinrich. I shall pay close attention to the critical path here. I will have to try some tinted Danish oil on a scrap piece as well. I remember your commentaries on Tung Oil from your Sampan. Would one coat of it be sufficient?
Just make sure you do all internal frame coating prior to installing the deck beams. 
Unless you are going to cut it in half, in which case you can do it at any time!
Unless you are going to cut it in half, in which case you can do it at any time!
Cutting it in half, no, that would be reserved for the professionals.Just make sure you do all internal frame coating prior to installing the deck beams.
Unless you are going to cut it in half, in which case you can do it at any time!
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Life is just one big learning experience...Thank you, but I can’t take all the credit, it is a technique that @Jimsky told me about.
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I doubt whether one coat will be sufficient. The first coat gets applied in a diluted format with mineral turpentine, so the saturation of the first coat is very high. The wood just drinks it in without too much of a visible effect. What I can do is to apply Tung Oil to one of my finished frames and show you what it looks like - but that will only happen on the weekend, if that's ok.
Thank you for the offer, Heinrich, I really don't intend to use Tung Oil so it would not be necessary to use it on one of your frames. In this case applying multiple coats to the 52 frames of the Bluenose becomes problematic for me. If it were a solid flat area such as a planked hull would be a different story. I will end up using something where one coat, two max will be all that is required.
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While I can't really say how this might apply to this thread but I'll throw it in anyway. For years my go-to method of dealing with unpainted wood in models has been WATCO Danish Oil tinted as I choose with small dabs of tubed artist oil colors. Black, ochre, browns, whatevers. A teaspoon of the WATCO and a touch of the oil paint goop well blended and applied by brush.
I hate to sound like a broken record, but I always say oil is for furniture and clear coat is best for models. I say this because wood is permeable, and it soaks up the oil, and usually takes 2 -7 days to cure. Clear coat seals the wood and closes the pores. I apply one coat, sand with steel wool and apply a final coat. And it cures within 1 day. Oil usually requires many coats until the wood is saturated. In addition some oils attract dust, and it sticks to the oiled surface, whereas clear coat the dust wipes off or can be blown off.
Once again oil looks great on wood, but has its drawbacks.
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Hello Alf, I was just researching Danish Oil online and have decided to get some and experiment with it. It says it dries hard. All of these wood treatment oils appear to be either Tung or Linseed oils mixed with polymers and or colorants similar to stains or even clear.
I hear what you're saying Dean, can a polyurethane topcoat be applied over an oil-based surface coating after the surface has cured for a couple weeks?I hate to sound like a broken record, but I always say oil is for furniture and clear coat is best for models. I say this because wood is permeable, and it soaks up the oil, but will dry out in time unless sealed. Clear coat seals the wood and closes the pores. I apply one coat, sand with steel wool and apply a final coat. Oil usually requires many coats until the wood is saturated and then needs to be reapplied in time or the wood dries out again. In addition oils typically attract dust and it sticks to the oiled surface, whereas clear coat the dust wipes off or can be blown off.
Once again oil looks great on wood, but has its drawbacks.
I should clarify that there are two types of oils, drying and non drying. Non drying oils will stay oily and attract dust. The good news is that Tung oil, Linseed oil and Danish oil are drying oils, and will cure over time. Danish oil is a combination of drying oil and varnish, which is typically 1/3 varnish and 2/3 oil. Once a drying oil is FULLY CURED, then you can apply a lacquer or polyurethane clear coat on top. Hope that helps.
I just deleted the treatise I was writing... "what Dean said" 
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While I do agree with the opinion that oil may give amazing visual results, I also agree with you that oil is for furniture and the clear coat finish for models.I hate to sound like a broken record, but I always say oil is for furniture and clear coat is best for models. I say this because wood is permeable, and it soaks up the oil, and usually takes 2 -7 days to cure. Clear coat seals the wood and closes the pores. I apply one coat, sand with steel wool and apply a final coat. And it cures within 1 day. Oil usually requires many coats until the wood is saturated. In addition some oils attract dust, and it sticks to the oiled surface, whereas clear coat the dust wipes off or can be blown off.
Once again oil looks great on wood, but has its drawbacks.
Having said that, to everyone its own.
Agreed Johan! I understand why people like oil, but I personally prefer clear coat, as it is easier to work with. I am like electricity most of the time, as I prefer to take the path of least resistance!While I do agree with the opinion that oil may give amazing visual results, I also agree with you that oil is for furniture and the clear coat finish for models.
Having said that, to everyone its own.
Good evening Daniel. Ahh you are making progress with those frames. I am definitely going to give the filler tree-nailing a go. The toothpick method may work on larger scale but I found it inconsistent on my Xebec decking. Yours look awesome. I like the linseed oil option . Cheers Grant
I still think the linseed looks coolAgreed Johan! I understand why people like oil, but I personally prefer clear coat, as it is easier to work with. I am like electricity most of the time, as I prefer to take the path of least resistance!
. Just had to throw it in Daniel
Thanks Grant, Ha! now I'm seriously considering just a polyurethane coating if I can find some that's just darkened a little, say like an Oak shade.