Titanic 1/350 MiniCraft Kit build

yeah, especially increasing the size of the openings so that they fit properly. And then there are the opening that are already too large! The wax pencil idea I got here for picking up and placing the windows was a life saver. Are you using CA glue? I use Elmer's white glue that has been watered down slightly. I allows you to move the part around to get it just where you want it. I'm not sure of the pros/cons of using CA. Maybe I am missing a better way of doing it.
I don't like ca for photo etch, there is no time for fitting. I did the same but with watered down Gorilla glue.
About Gorilla glue, the producer .has ceased production so if you like it, stock up!
 
I attached parts J13A/B to the bottom of the promenade deck instead of on top of the main deck. I did this so that I could get a properly aligned joint with part J39. Assembly is shown upside down.


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I made glue blocks from Evergreen rectangular cross section pieces. This worked well to hold the walls firmly in place. This was needed since the Promenade deck walls rested on top of the Scale Deck making gluing impractical. Also the Promenade deck walls were somewhat warped and were hard to hold into place.

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Before/after pics of cleaning up wall joints. I used Humbrol 118 Matt for the top railin and Testors Gloss brown for window frames


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My first PE stairs. I modified a pair of tweezers (filed down with a standard file then tuned up with fine jewelers file) to get in between the treads to angle them properly


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I cut a strip off of one of the PE frets to make the brass joints. My first attempt was with a pair of side cuts but they deformed the edges. I ended up scribing a guide line with an old razor blade and straight edge then cutting with my PE snippers. I have never been satisfied with brass paint.

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what are you using to glue the photo etch with? trying the gorilla glue here, but a little wary.
I am using the Elmer's Multi-Purpose Glue All. I have a gallon of it that I purchased for my HO RR layout. I think it is in the same family (PVA) of glues as the gorilla wood glue that I used on the deck. This type of glue gives you time to position the parts, you can easily wipe off excess with a damp Q-Tip and it seems to be very strong. I have had to remove some of the windows (put wrong ones in place). I tried popping them off with my razor knife put they were very tight. I put a drop of water around the frame and after a few minutes the frame could safely be removed.
 
I used Window Maker on the inside frames of the windows, on the promenade deck, then used the Gorilla glue.
I used blocks to glue the walls to the deck as you did, one plus is that with the walls overlapping the Scale Decks will help keep the decks from lifting.
I found that with Tom's pe, I had to use magnifiers to see, the ones that you put on your head. They have leds in them, what a difference that makes.. Those pes should be called "cross eyed" city! I am also using the wax pencils to pick them up.
 
I used Window Maker on the inside frames of the windows, on the promenade deck, then used the Gorilla glue.
I used blocks to glue the walls to the deck as you did, one plus is that with the walls overlapping the Scale Decks will help keep the decks from lifting.
I found that with Tom's pe, I had to use magnifiers to see, the ones that you put on your head. They have leds in them, what a difference that makes.. Those pes should be called "cross eyed" city! I am also using the wax pencils to pick them up.
I have the same kind of magnifiers and you do have to almost cross your eyes to focus!
 
Our hobby shop does not carry Model Masters anymore. The stock they did have was hard and dried out. I am using True North. It's pricey but the bottles are larger too. I like it! Using the enamel, and they carry white satin too. (I don't really care for the acrylic)
It's mail order now, that stinks, and we are trying to get out local hobby shop to carry it.
 
I finally got the deck assemblies put together and attached to the ship. I choose to attach before adding the funnels and other topmost structures as they would have been in the way of the rubber bands I used to secure the structure while the cement set up.

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Our hobby shop does not carry Model Masters anymore. The stock they did have was hard and dried out. I am using True North. It's pricey but the bottles are larger too. I like it! Using the enamel, and they carry white satin too. (I don't really care for the acrylic)
It's mail order now, that stinks, and we are trying to get out local hobby shop to carry it.
You have a local hobby shop? That's lucky. The nearest to me is a 45min drive and it is a chain. I heard that Testor's is discontinuing Model Masters or at least scaling way back. They still carry Testor's/Model Masters at Hobby Lobby which is where I get my paint lately. Odd that their stock of MM paint was dried out - they must not have much turnover. I'm still using MM paint that I purchased 20 years ago! I will say you need to be careful with MM paint after it has been opened, The paper gasket in the lid often times does not seal well. I've been storing them upside down to seal better. Those little tins that Humbrol and White Ensign Models paints use seem to seal the best.
 
I watched a fellow on you tube use his jig saw as a paint shaker. He inserted a small clamp into the blade holder then clamped an old model paint jar in the clamp and turned on the jig saw. It was a variable speed and really shook up that paint jar. The results were very good.
I have a lot of old MM paint and I think I'll give the jig saw a try out.
 
Starting in the piping on the funnels. Using the channel for the supports. Not really historically accurate but I think much better than the out of box option.


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first test fit

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I saved the topmost support so that I could use the whistle and make one less scratch support.

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this was most tedious part so far. The drill bits I had were a hair too small so I had to file them larger to accommodate the plastic rod.


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Those funnels look great. My decks are really warped. I had an awful time getting them onto the mounting tabs properly.
I've saved up half of what's needed for the 1/200 Titanic, I hope they did a better job on that one with the molds! I haven't permanently mounted the decks to the hull yet, got them attached with rubber bands, still having problems with the fit, but I am doing the superstructures first, that seems to take some warpage out. The decks are made of very soft plastic.
 
Those funnels look great. My decks are really warped. I had an awful time getting them onto the mounting tabs properly.
I've saved up half of what's needed for the 1/200 Titanic, I hope they did a better job on that one with the molds! I haven't permanently mounted the decks to the hull yet, got them attached with rubber bands, still having problems with the fit, but I am doing the superstructures first, that seems to take some warpage out. The decks are made of very soft plastic.
Thanks. I assume you are talking about the Trumpeter kit. I have built several of their aircraft kits and never had any issues to speak of. I think you will find that kit is in a whole new league. This MiniCraft kit is reminiscent of the Revell/Monogram kits of my childhood. Anyone building these kits deserves "extra credit"
 
Yes, saving for the Trumpeter 1/200 Titanic!
I have all the exterior walls painted and windows put in but no PE yet.
For those old Revell and Monogram kits, we were fortunate to have "putty"!
 
I'm learning as I go here. I cut each support to proper length individually for the first set. Then it dawned on me that I could slip them onto the tubing and use a sanding block and file to trim them all to the same length together.
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I have attached tubing to the funnels. Next up is trimming the ends and possibly flaring the top end. Not sure just yet in how to do that.
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