USRC Harriet Lane Model Shipways 1:96 scale circa 1863

:confused: I'd probably try wrapping it with a sliver of brown fabric or a thin strip of brown tape. I have gotten spools of thin colored tape at Michael's (or similar craft store)
 
Peter Gutterman said:
:confused: I'd probably try wrapping it with a sliver of brown fabric or a thin strip of brown tape. I have gotten spools of thin colored tape at Michael's (or similar craft store)
Click to expand...
Pete! Thank you! I was thinking about using Kleenex. In theory I would apply some damp kleenex over the chain and let it dry in place. I would then paint that with some diluted glue or acrylic matte medium. Let that dry in place and then paint it "leather" color. The "leather" color being subject to the builder's fancy ROTF

I may need to build a jig that replicates the foremast doubling. We'll see what happens.

Blessings.
Chuck
 
Peter Gutterman said:
:confused: I'd probably try wrapping it with a sliver of brown fabric or a thin strip of brown tape. I have gotten spools of thin colored tape at Michael's (or similar craft store)
Click to expand...
Just had a brainwave! I have some of the brown paper I used to make the mast hoops. I could dampen a thin strip wind it around the chain, let that dry in place and "fix" it in place with matte acrylic medium. Thoughts?
 
Peter Voogt said:
It was a (to long) time ago that I was reading your log, Chuck. I had a lot to catch up. A very nice progress and the rigging looks promising.
Regards, Peter
Click to expand...
Thank you, Peter! It's coming along. I'm excited about the rigging! I need to post pics of current progress - masts stepped, shrouds in place, main stay and fore stay and topmast shrouds. Heading to the shipyard now!

I appreciate you!

Blessings.
Chuck
 
Warships with chain slings often had them fixed to an iron fitting on the mast cap.
con20110423d.jpg

Not to suggest you do it that way, just adding data to your database. I'm inclined to think the Lane was rigged more like a clipper, though since that's what her designer/builder was famous for, and she was much more lightly built than a warship.
 
The Gavel said:
Pete! Thank you! I was thinking about using Kleenex. In theory I would apply some damp kleenex over the chain and let it dry in place. I would then paint that with some diluted glue or acrylic matte medium. Let that dry in place and then paint it "leather" color. The "leather" color being subject to the builder's fancy ROTF

I may need to build a jig that replicates the foremast doubling. We'll see what happens.

Blessings.
Chuck
Click to expand...
Not a bad idea, only use tissue paper in lieu of Kleenex, which dissolves too easily. I used beige shoebox tissue but any tissue paper will do on my 1:192 Baltimore clipper and my Harriet Lane
The Gavel said:
Just had a brainwave! I have some of the brown paper I used to make the mast hoops. I could dampen a thin strip wind it around the chain, let that dry in place and "fix" it in place with matte acrylic medium. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
good idea! Thumbsup
for the sails. Dampened with matte acrylic it becomes like papier mâché. mold it to shape in place, let it dry and paint many coats nearly dry brush brown acrylic.
 
Roger Pellett said:
Heat shrink tubing?
Click to expand...
Thank you, Roger! It's worth the experiment. I've got plenty of chain. I tried the Kleenex method. It was a quick and dirty experiment while I waited for some glue to dry. This is what it looked like after drying in place. Ugly. But, with a little patience and perhaps dampening the chain in diluted acrylic matte medium I can get it much smoother.


.Kleenex.jpg
 
JerryTodd said:
Warships with chain slings often had them fixed to an iron fitting on the mast cap.
View attachment 498269

Not to suggest you do it that way, just adding data to your database. I'm inclined to think the Lane was rigged more like a clipper, though since that's what her designer/builder was famous for, and she was much more lightly built than a warship.
Click to expand...
Jerry! I was hoping to hear from you! I knew your expertise would add to the conversation in this log about how it was really done. I like your conclusion, it matches my heavy reliance on Crothers and Underhill. We're geniuses! ROTF

Blessings.
Chuck
 
Peter Gutterman said:
Not a bad idea, only use tissue paper in lieu of Kleenex, which dissolves too easily. I used beige shoebox tissue but any tissue paper will do on my 1:192 Baltimore clipper and my Harriet Lane

good idea! Thumbsup
for the sails. Dampened with matte acrylic it becomes like papier mâché. mold it to shape in place, let it dry and paint many coats nearly dry brush brown acrylic.
Click to expand...
I get what you mean about the Kleenex. I'll keep experimenting. Happily I have some shoebox tissue. Thank you, Pete!
 
I was hoping to add the backstays before ratlining. I'm impatient to get to the jib stay because of my jib stay outhaul ring. Then, when I started to add the back stays (yellow arrows) it was clear that they would be in the way and at risk as I worked on the rat lines.

Also, the instructions call for thinner line for the backstays than the shrouds. Fair enough. But all of the deadeyes are the same size. (Red arrows). Under the "I wish I had . . ." category, I wish I had sourced deadeyes 1/2 mm smaller than the shroud deadeyes. Future builders - get yourself some smaller deadeyes for the topmast shrouds and back stays. I got some REALLY nice deadeyes for the topmast shrouds from @Dry-Dock Models & Parts . In fact, future modelers, if you really want to take it up a notch - replace all of the kit supplied deadeyes. IMHO the place to get them is Dry-Dock.

1 30 2025 backstays.jpg
 
The Gavel said:
REALLY nice deadeyes for the topmast shrouds from @Dry-Dock Models & Parts . In fact, future modelers, if you really want to take it up a notch - replace all of the kit supplied deadeyes. IMHO the place to get them is Dry-Dock.
Click to expand...
I completely agree with you on the quality of parts from Dry-Dock.
 
Jimsky said:
She looks terrific, Chuck!
Click to expand...
Jimsky said:
I completely agree with you on the quality of parts from Dry-Dock.
Click to expand...
Jim! Thank you for the compliment! I think she'll be pretty good looking once all is said and done. Dry-Dock, right! I think @GrantTyler uses them exclusively. Grant? Looking at your Xebec build? In any event I'll be sourcing all of my blocks, deadeyes, hooks etc from them going forward.
 
Speaking of deadeyes, another thing I wish I had done is to make the grooves in deadeyes (they probably have a name). Yesterday, catching up on @dockattner Kingfisher build, I notice that Paul used a cone shaped head in his rotary tool to put in those grooves. Paul! What are those grooved called where the lanyards rest before passing through the eyes? Also, are the grooves on both sides?

I'm thankful for everyone's presence and kindness!

Blessings.
Chuck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top