That is EXACTLY what I envisioned in my mind but could not accomplish. I'll give it a go, Nigel. Thank you for taking the time to help me out.
@dockattner ...
Too late Dean! I just ripped off a bunch of bow planks@dockattner ...
I would start at the keel and move upwards to meet what you already have in place. Be sure to make your garboard plank go full width to the keel at the bow. The boards want to curve upwards, so they will lay down nicely. Problem solved hopefully!
ps - you will have a row (or two?) where what you have now and the rows from the keel going up meet, that will end in a point. But the Vasa had those type boards if I remember correctly.
You could also encourage the upward bend at the end of your rows at the bow, by adding a small narrow stealer (triangle) right above the garboard plank at the bow keel. That will start the upward curve on the second and all subsequent rows. Just a thought. As this would most likely be my approach, so the boards are bending naturally the way they want to. But I’m like electricity...I take the path of least resistance!
. Of course I don't know if my new effort will improve on the first (same builder after all) so maybe I'll get to try out your suggestion in the end!
An alternative to using water (which causes the wood fibers to expand) is to try isopropyl alcohol which works faster than water, even at room temperatures, and does not create the swelling problem which later shrinks again. . . at least from my use of it in the past and still for the future. Just a thought to experiment with. Rich (PT-2)
. So, here's an update.
Thank you Heinrich - you are skilled beyond my wildest dreams! I see it, so I believe it - I just couldn't do it!
I believe that technique is called spiling. Basically transferring curves to a straight plank. I have avoided this technique thus far, mainly due to the fact it requires a wider than normal plank. With thick boards you can soak and heat to edge bend, so you don’t need to do any spiling. But veneer, as you found out, is not so cooperative when it comes to edge bending. It will tolerate some, especially on the tapered section that is not as wide. But you chose to take on a difficult task with your ship.I'm confident you are all sitting on the edges of your seats wondering how this epic drama will resolve itself
This is what I started with:
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Again, my problem wasn't that it looked bad (well, other than the gaps in between the strakes). But that the technique I was using could not continue - the vertical bending I was attempting was creating a 'clinker' effect that was getting worse and worse the deeper I got into the curvature of the hull.
I was intrigued by the suggestion made by @NMBROOK - use veneer and cut each plank as a custom piece. I had veneer from when I covered the keel, sternpost, and stem so I decided to give it a shot. Naturally the first step was to remove the offending planks (yes, I did cry a little bit but it was not pathetic sobbing - more of a manly sort of crying).
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Following Nigel's instructions I made a paper template and transferred that to my pear veneer. I carefully cut out and shaped each piece and voila:
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If someone stumbles across this build log who is as new at this as I am here are some pictures of two lath strips - the first picture is the third strip from the top and the second picture is the seventh strip from the top (the last one placed at the bottom). I was stunned to see the amount of vertical change necessary to lay a strip that looks straight on the hull!
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I believe I have captured the Dutch planking style as defended by @Heinrich (albeit without the run of drop planks) - but more importantly I can now continue planking the hull until I run into my next problem!
Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions - you are all a fine bunch.
Thank you Heinrich - you are skilled beyond my wildest dreams! I see it, so I believe it - I just couldn't do it!
My wife discovered my shortcomings many years ago but she stills loves me so I guess I'll need to live with my failings just as she does!
Much appreciated Dean. Spiling huh? Very exotic sounding. You correctly point out that this technique requires material that was not included in the kit - but fortunately I had pear veneer sheet on hand. The color is slightly different but not much can be done about that. It's actually pretty easy to do and enormously satisfying. Takes a bit of time but so does fitting drop planks (and countless scarf joints!). In the end I was able to get around a problem so I'm mighty pleased with all the support I received from folks on the SOS forum.I believe that technique is called spiling. Basically transferring curves to a straight plank. I have avoided this technique thus far, mainly due to the fact it requires a wider than normal plank. With thick boards you can soak and heat to edge bend, so you don’t need to do any spiling. But veneer, as you found out, is not so cooperative when it comes to edge bending. It will tolerate some, especially on the tapered section that is not as wide. But you chose to take on a difficult task with your ship.
In the end you will succeed and I commend you for your effort, stubbornness and success!
Thanks for checking in on me Dean! Nothing new to report (still replacing what I tore out) and the prospects aren't good for the balance of this week. Don't all these other obligations know I have a ship to build?!?
Awesome, Kurt! Thank you for sharing this image. It is interesting in that it shows the 'outer' soldiers facing port and starboard rather than to the rear of the ship. There is also a minor controversy over how many of the soldiers carried spears - this image shows four...
The Wasa has a square tuck, with the stern and sides meeting at a sharp angle all the way down to the keel, and the figures that adorn the edge of the stern face outward, port and starboard, being mounted on the sides of the hull where it meets the transom. Higher up on where the stern gallery meets the side gallery, the figures are angled at 30 degrees with respect to the side and rear.
I am very happy it is all panning out!