Vasa Build Log - Billing Boats - Scale 1/75 [COMPLETED BUILD]

[PeterG]

Thank you Ciciak35 for your post and requesting my opinion. While I like the Billing Boats model kits, their instructions leave a lot to be desired for a novice and first-time builder. The Billing kits require a lot of 'scratch-additions' to make them as detailed as I would like at least and in mot cases this is not helped by basic instructions and diagrams that are often for expediency and eas e of building rather than detail accuracy. That said however, I believe the Billing Vasa ship design and shape is probably the most accurate out there.

The DeAgostini kit has excellent instructions and as John (Le Capitaine) has detailed, you can review these before going ahead with a purchase. Note too that you can also download the Billings kit instructions and manual at:

http://www.billingboats.com/da/3/2/boats/the-expert/P-bb490-wasa.html

The Vasa is a complex, large and detailed project to undertake with any kit, despite how good the instructions are. You might be better to approach the hobby with some prior experience and a smaller or less complex model to start, to build knowledge and tools etc. and then undertake the Vasa in the future when confident.

There is generally a compromise between the detail provided in instructions/diagrams and explanation manuals and assembling model ship kits. This is usually drawn on by the cost of putting together the ships kit components, time to write manuals, language/translation etc etc and the cost price of a model. There has to be a profit motive and so often the instructions quality suffers. Its just a fact of life in the hobby I am afraid. Note though that one of the BEST means of assistance to builders are the detailed logs provided here and in other sites.

Regards,

PeterG

PS. Apologies to my post readers for a delay in updating my log. I have been away for two weeks in the South Pacific..... I'll get back to the log as soon as I can, with having to deal with bushfires, drought and feeding our animals!!! I'm afraid the family Captain says these matters take priority.

 

[Le Capitaine]

I agree with Peter that build logs do help a great deal clearing things up.

 

[Ciciak35]

Thank you Ciciak35 for your post and requesting my opinion. While I like the Billing Boats model kits, their instructions leave a lot to be desired for a novice and first-time builder. The Billing kits require a lot of 'scratch-additions' to make them as detailed as I would like at least and in mot cases this is not helped by basic instructions and diagrams that are often for expediency and eas e of building rather than detail accuracy. That said however, I believe the Billing Vasa ship design and shape is probably the most accurate out there.

The DeAgostini kit has excellent instructions and as John (Le Capitaine) has detailed, you can review these before going ahead with a purchase. Note too that you can also download the Billings kit instructions and manual at:

http://www.billingboats.com/da/3/2/boats/the-expert/P-bb490-wasa.html

The Vasa is a complex, large and detailed project to undertake with any kit, despite how good the instructions are. You might be better to approach the hobby with some prior experience and a smaller or less complex model to start, to build knowledge and tools etc. and then undertake the Vasa in the future when confident.

There is generally a compromise between the detail provided in instructions/diagrams and explanation manuals and assembling model ship kits. This is usually drawn on by the cost of putting together the ships kit components, time to write manuals, language/translation etc etc and the cost price of a model. There has to be a profit motive and so often the instructions quality suffers. Its just a fact of life in the hobby I am afraid. Note though that one of the BEST means of assistance to builders are the detailed logs provided here and in other sites.

Regards,

PeterG

PS. Apologies to my post readers for a delay in updating my log. I have been away for two weeks in the South Pacific..... I'll get back to the log as soon as I can, with having to deal with bushfires, drought and feeding our animals!!! I'm afraid the family Captain says these matters take priority.

Hi Peter, nice to meet you. Yes i have seen the instruction manul on that page and frankly I was surpriced that this manual was everything. i thought they did not share everythink because of copyrights or somethink.
You persuaded me I will start with somethink easier. Thanks.

 

[Ciciak35]

Ciciak,
I would recommend looking at DeAgostani. They have The Vasa. I am sure they have a Europe web page. They offer the kit as a subscription, but the instructions are very through. Check out the downloadable instructions under the Download tab.

https://www.model-space.com/us/build-the-vasa-ship.html

This is really beautifull ship, but for the first build 1300USD is to much for me. I planned to go with half maximum. Thanks for suggestion. I will keep this as an option in future.

 

[Ciciak35]

Hi

For a first build I would not recommend such a complex ship without instructions,Model Shipways has good kits with good instructions

Thanks zoly99sask, I have checked it and you are correct. The manual for https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-ARMED-VIRGINIA-SLOOP-148-SCALE_p_1007.html is extensive and I should be able to do it. At least I think . Now I have to figure out how to get it from this page as it is 150 EURO less then in EU.
Update - they are not shipping directly to EU.

 

[Sparrow]

Hi Peter,
Very impressive your ship I like your work, I am following your page with interest as I am thinking to buy the same model from Billing Boats {after many years finally) and you are a great source of inspiration. Can I ask you some advice and help??
Thanks Lorenzo

 

[PeterG]

Hi Peter,
Very impressive your ship I like your work, I am following your page with interest as I am thinking to buy the same model from Billing Boats {after many years finally) and you are a great source of inspiration. Can I ask you some advice and help??
Thanks Lorenzo

Dear Lorenzo,

I apologise for not having been updating my log recently. I have been fighting bushfires!!!

I will attempt to answer any questions you have as quickly as possible.

Thanks,

Peter G.

 

[Sparrow]

Dear Lorenzo,

I apologise for not having been updating my log recently. I have been fighting bushfires!!!

I will attempt to answer any questions you have as quickly as possible.

Thanks,

Peter G.

Aw Jesus, sorry I know right, the bushfires was a total disaster. I could breathe the smoke from Melbourne for days, terrible!! I hope you are okay anyway.
Thanks

 

[Uwek]

Hallo Peter,
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY

 

[Jimsky]

Happy Birthday, Peter! Many more years to come

 

[WilliamMorrison]

Great job!

 

[Daniel20]

Hello Peter,
I just finished reviewing your build log and you have a real nice looking VASA there. I just ordered my Billings VASA yesterday and will definitely be referencing your build log for advise and help. I'm currently building the HMS Fly 1:64 by Amati and am about 50% on it. Keep up the good work!

 

[PeterG]

Hello Peter,
I just finished reviewing your build log and you have a real nice looking VASA there. I just ordered my Billings VASA yesterday and will definitely be referencing your build log for advise and help. I'm currently building the HMS Fly 1:64 by Amati and am about 50% on it. Keep up the good work!

Hi Daniel and thank you for your comments. I would be happy to provide whatever help and assistance I can in your build of a Billing’s Vasa.

As you would’ve been aware, my log reaches spars and mast rigging and then stops. Life’s events have impacted me since my last entries but our world is starting to settle down a bit, so I am hoping to return to the Vasa project on the next little while.

Please keep in touch and will help where I can.

PeterG

 

[Bryian]

Peter,
hope you can update the build log soon. Its an interesting model to build.
.

 

[PeterG]

Well, here it is at Easter 2021 and I am FINALLY getting a bit of spare time to return to the Vasa and my build log. To all those people who were following my build, my most sincere apologies. I know there was some interest in the Log and especially the Vasa, so to have the log just stop and be 'suspended in time' would have been disappointing.

So, what happened? Well my last few entries were about the time we here in Australia, and NSW in particular, were experiencing shocking, widespread and devastating bush fires. This was in the summer of 2019-2020 occupying much of December (2019), January, February and some of March 2020. I am a volunteer firefighter (as one of the many volunteer roles I fill), and I spent a lot of days and nights on various fire trucks fighting these fires. It was a shocking time and frankly, took a few weeks to get over once the weather changed and we beat the fires. The eastern states of Australia are still quite scarred and rebuilding of infrastructure, houses and people's lives will take a while.

Personally, my house was OK (but it was a close thing). We live on a rural property in the south of NSW so were under threat of fire in our district for quite a long time. One thing we had to do was remove most of the valuables in our house for safekeeping to a protected location. This included my model of the Vasa in 'mid-build'. Below is a picture of the model, being located into our vehicle for transport to a safe place in the nearby town. Moving a model such as the Vasa in a relatively insecure car and in a hurry, was fraught with danger, but we managed it.



Following the fires, and the return of the Vasa to my boatyard in the 'shed', I had intended to commence the ongoing build, however, along came Covid!! I am involved (in another volunteer role), with medical and first aid training and so my intentions to return to the model were again put off for a couple of months. Then finally, in the later part of 2020, a number of work clients contacted me to do some consulting work for them. I am retired but I cannot say 'No' to the lure of money and keeping my mind active. This brought me up to the end of 2020 and into 2021.

I am not wanting to make excuses, but anyway, I am back into the modelling, and appreciate what I have missed. So - here we go.

The last entries I made, relate to the yards, masts and tops. These were completed after a lot of reading of other Vasa logs and research. Interestingly, it wasn't until a lot later when I commenced rigging (which is where I am currently up to), did I realise that it would have been MUCH simpler, to make the masts without the upper mast elements (topgallants etc, especially for the fore and main mast), and then add these later. The main issue was the addition of tackle lines, then shrouds which go around the main or fore mast sections above the tops and trees before the upper masts are added. I will cover this in future posts, but needless to say, the Billing's instructions give no hint of the 'order' of things to be built when relating to rigging. So, a tip for future builders:

1. Complete spars by shaping etc, add with blocks and get ready for mounting but then set aside.

2. Make up your mast off the ship (with the tops/trees/sheaves and blocks as you can). Ensure the upper mast sections all fit together, but don't permanently fix tops and upper masts at this stage.

3. When in a position to step masts, do so and fix only the lower sections into the hull. Permanently fix in place allowing for entry into the hull (caps etc) and with only the lower mast sections in place, then add tackle and shrouds.

4. Provide support for tackles to channels and then shroud deadeyes to channel-fixed deadeyes and add laniards for support. Do not finish these off permanently as ratlines, other shrouds and stay tensions will all require adjustment before completion.

All the above I have learnt by hindsight. I didn't follow this order but only later realised it would have been much easier if I had!!

OK, now to resume where I left off. My completion of the spars followed the Billing instructions. These are 1:1 scale and give detail on the blocks to be added for later rigging. Below is a picture of these. Note I have had to label each one as there are a good number and they are all unique to their position with each mast.


I then drilled a piece of scrap wood to allow a better 'sorting' method.



Finally, I added the blocks in the locations as required. In most instances, this was done with the spar in a 'soft' vise and then the block added as required.



The use of G-S Hypo glue was invaluable in doing this rigging. It goes on clear, dries reasonably quickly and dries flat so is almost impossible to see. I would highly recommend this glue for those in the rigging stage!!!



Finally. all the spars were rigged and complete for mounting when required. This is a long way off however, as the masts and standing rigging is required before this stage.



Elapsed Time: 1560 Hours

Regards,

Peter G.

 

[PeterG]

After completing the spars, and before moving on to the masts, I decided to install the lower deck cannons. These had to be done before the masts and rigging anyway, and I had the doors made with their lion heads painted and mounted, plus the cannons blackened by gun 'blackener'.



Each cannon had a pre-prepared gun mounting inside the hull (see previous post), where I had made a floor and gun mounts with a drilled hole for the 'stud' mounting of each cannon through the gun doors. This went surprisingly well.

To each door, I had also made a pair of small hinges which were folded, painted black and CA'ed to the outer surface (as this is innermost when the doors are open. Through the two hinges, I threaded some suitable copper wire and bent this to be right angles (see picture). For each door, the laniards were attached for opening and closing the gun doors from inside the ship. I had initially just mounted these with an appropriate diameter rope, but later I thought the 'whitish' colour was probably not appropriate, so I stained the ropes with a darker, black colour.



With two equally spaced holes drilled into the side of the ship above the gun door openings, I could then position the gun doors (see below).



With the hinges being copper wire, I could rotate the door upward or downward to the angle required and locate them in positions which looked good. I then added a little CA to the hinge to 'lock' the door in place. In general the copper wire hinges were not visible with the door covering them in the front, but to be sure, I had also added a drop of black paint to make them seem part of the hinge and this looked OK. With the darkened laniards, the job looks quite good and it was relatively simple to do. When all the gun hatch doors were in place and glued, the darkened laniard ropes were tucked neatly inside the hull and glued in place. Note that, the laniards of course had to be positioned down beside each gun and not in front of the firing line. That would never do for the shipmates aboard!!



One thing which proved especially helpful in the whole gun and hatch door placement exercise, was the the ship being mounted on a revolving 'lazy Susan' stage and with two plastic/foam mounts which allow me to rotate the hull along its axis as well as around a vertical axis. I can access any point of the hull and the ship remained solid for drilling etc.

Elapsed time: 1590 hours

Regards,

Peter G.

 

[dockattner]

Hello Peter,
We have not met but I have been a fan for a while now. I began my own iteration of the Vasa during your hiatus and have found inspiration in your work. I appreciate your careful explanations and the excellence you have brought to this build and am humbly following in your footsteps as I stumble along on my first build. I certainly won't be able to accomplish all that you have, but am trying to make it my own in whatever ways I can.

I'm excited that you have returned to your log after an extended time of putting the needs of others ahead of your own - admirable to be sure. I will follow with enthusiasm and respect.
Paul

 

[Daniel20]

Hi Peter, glad to see you back to your build! I finally have my VASA in hand and will begin on it soon. I was wanting to take a little brake from modeling but I hear strange voices in the night saying "Dan..Dan your VASA needs you". Ha, anyway I will continue watching your magnificent build and am looking forward to your mast/rigging work.

 

[PeterG]

Paul and Daniel, many thanks for your kind comments. I am sorry it’s been so long since I have posted. I look forward to seeing both your logs reviewing your builds. You are right Daniel, “Your Vasa needs you...”

 

[PeterG]

Working on the masts, and adding the tops. The tops I made a while back and so these were ready. Below is the foremast with top mast and topgallant sections being prepared. I have stained the lower section and the upper section will be dismantled and stained before fixing together. Each individual mast section is joined by a brass rod placed in holes drilled in centre of each piece. This is as per the Billing instructions and when done with a tight drill and brass diameter, it forms quite a strong section when all put together and glued. The same approach will be applied to the main and mizzen masts.



The bow sprit is different as a knee is affixed to the upper surface with the top passing over it before the bow sprit mast is added. I have glued and nailed the knee in place and it forms quite a rigid, strong support. The knee also supports the top which is then locked in place by the base of the mast section (see following photo).



In the following photo I am about to add the block above the top that is located on the knee and fits neatly into the heel of the top sprit mast section.



In the case of the upper sections of the main mast and foremast, there are sheaves (made of brass) which had to be housed between two cheeks which give support to the trees under the tops. This is shown below. Onto the trees the tops sit and are glued into place, but before this is done, the angle of the trees relative to the mast has to be accurately determined before fixing permanently. This angle (and I used the angle measured directly from the 1:1 scale drawings) is important as it determines the tops angle for each mast. These angles are not parallel to the deck (as I would have expected), but quite a bit more forward dipping when the mast is in place in the hull and located with its correct offset angle. each mast (fore, main and mizzen is different in angle so some time is required to get it right).



On the actual Vasa (see below), the masts are not made from one piece of timber but rather are a compound of various pieces fitted accurately together and then nailed and with woldings. This can be seen from photos of the actual ship as below of the main mast. Note in this photo the different colours of timber on each side of the trunk of the mast, laminated together. Note too the steel bands near the lower top and the three woldings (rope wrappings) around the mast.



For my mast sections, clearly to do this laminating, it would be possible but a lot of work to get right. So, I took the relevant mast sections and scribed with a sharp blade, a cut which marked the edges of the timber laminations. I then ran masking tape along the cuts and applied some darker stain to the required wood sections. When the masking tape was removed, it leaves a distinct line which for intents and purposes, is an accurate lamination from the closest scrutiny. The steel banding I created from black crepe paper and glued with thinned white glue after cutting into thin strips, and the woldings were a simple matter of winding rope I made around the mast section at the appropriate spacings and heights above deck (after insertion into the hull). The instructions indicated these positions. The photo below shows the appearance of the laminations of the lower main mast section.



The next picture shows the steel strapping and the woldings being added. This was relatively simple but needed a steady hand to wind the strappings and rope in place.



Once this was all done, the masts just needed to have their block added and the fittings attached.

Time elapsed: 1645 hours

Best regards,

PeterG