YQ Bluenose by Johan [COMPLETED BUILD]

Although I initially decided to push back for as long as I could on completing those rather fragile transom parts, after again breaking the already repaired (bonded) spiderlegs, I changed my mind... So I took out the gussets, parts 185 through 187, to provide some much needed support for those spiderlegs, do I hate those things, and added the two end horns. After some TLC the transom looks oké, but will need some final treatment prior to planking.
I also processed the mast bases for both forward- and main masts and did a dry fit installation of the fishdeck clamps. Next step is to recess both clamps to allow for the sister keelson thickness, followed by bonding the clamps to the frames. So far, so good...

Inside view in the transom, still need some clean up, but that will have to wait till the deck beams are available. Then I will dry fit all relevant parts, to check what parts still need to be adjusted.
(Those close-up pictures are killing me; too much detail and too many deviations...)

675A1AC2-16AF-4760-924E-CAB17F1B7298.jpegTransom seen from the outside, the end horns still need some trimming, but otherwise I'm quite happy with the end result.
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The two mast bases, no big deal, only a lot of char removal...

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Dry fit of the fishdeck clamps and the mast bases. I used some sticks to check proper alignment of the two clamps; looking good. Some more material removal to accomodae for those sisters, then dry fitting again, marking on the frames and the some bonding action.

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Although I initially decided to push back for as long as I could on completing those rather fragile transom parts, after again breaking the already repaired (bonded) spiderlegs, I changed my mind... So I took out the gussets, parts 185 through 187, to provide some much needed support for those spiderlegs, do I hate those things, and added the two end horns. After some TLC the transom looks oké, but will need some final treatment prior to planking.
I also processed the mast bases for both forward- and main masts and did a dry fit installation of the fishdeck clamps. Next step is to recess both clamps to allow for the sister keelson thickness, followed by bonding the clamps to the frames. So far, so good...

Inside view in the transom, still need some clean up, but that will have to wait till the deck beams are available. Then I will dry fit all relevant parts, to check what parts still need to be adjusted.
(Those close-up pictures are killing me; too much detail and too many deviations...)

View attachment 300298Transom seen from the outside, the end horns still need some trimming, but otherwise I'm quite happy with the end result.
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The two mast bases, no big deal, only a lot of char removal...

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Dry fit of the fishdeck clamps and the mast bases. I used some sticks to check proper alignment of the two clamps; looking good. Some more material removal to accomodae for those sisters, then dry fitting again, marking on the frames and the some bonding action.

View attachment 300301
Step by step, the hull is filled with all the parts and it also gains more and more sturdiness. It takes some time, but the result is worth it.
And building up the stern is triggering all your skills, Johan. It's looking nice!
Regards, Peter.
 
Step by step, the hull is filled with all the parts and it also gains more and more sturdiness. It takes some time, but the result is worth it.
And building up the stern is triggering all your skills, Johan. It's looking nice!
Regards, Peter.
Thanks Peter!
 
Below details of the fwd (lefthand picture) and aft (righthand picture) ends of the fishdeck clamps.
Those recesses are necessary to allow the sister keelsons to freely pass underneath the clamps.
I didn't dare use power tools, so it's all done by hand.
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Today progress was made on the two fish deck clamps. Both are now firmly in place, so now it's back to char cleaning again; all lower deck floorbeams are now up for their treatment... Joy!

Both clamps installed, the right one still clamped.
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The tip of the right hand clamp broke off... Cautious
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Clamping removed and both mast bases shown just for fun.
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Playing catch-up after a hectic day! You are so right about those macro close-ups - don't be too perturbed by them. The exterior view of the transom looks great and that's what counts. Once the planking is done and the decks are laid, that's the end of those [pesky views. The rest of your work looks great Johan and the progress is there for all to see. Good going!
 
Hi Johan, I'm ashamed to say that I have only just come across your build today. I had followed your Bluenose I rebuild last year and had no idea that you had got stuck into another one! Especially since you have taken time to comment on my own log. Anyway I have pulled up a chair and caught up with your build this morning, which is all looking spot-on by the way, and I look forward to following the remainder of your progress. Good luck Thumbsup
 
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Hi Johan, I'm ashamed to say that I have only just come across your build today. I had followed your Bluenose I rebuild last year and had no idea that you had got stuck into another one! Especially since you have taken time to comment on my own log. Anyway I have pulled up a chair and caught up with your build this morning, which is all looking spot-on by the way, and I look forward to following the remainder of your progress. Good luck Thumbsup
Nice to have you on board!
It's a very interesting journey, with an awfull lot of learning experiences.
Luckily there's SOS ánd my fellow countrymen @Peter Voogt and @Henk Liebre , who live not too far away and are just a WhatsApp away.
 
Preparing for the next step:
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Like some of my predecessors in this group build I am planning to add ballast to the keel.
For that purpose the Admiral and I collected some vulcanic gravel during our last stay on Lanzarote.
Historically far from accurate, I know, but I invoke AL-FI rights on the subject.
I did some tests with two types of adhesive (a clear Bison power glue and a grade D2 wood glue) plus a check to see how taping off would work.

On the left (51) two tests with the D2 adhesive. On the two specimen on the right, 52 and 53, I used the power glue. The power glue specimen were the most convincing, so my next step is to go with it for real...:eek:

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Also in preparation for adding the ballast, I applied the first layer of finish in the areas I don't have sufficient access to, once the ballast has been applied.

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And, since I thoroughly enjoy myself removing char (sarcasm mode off), I started on the lower deck floorbeams. On the lower side of the beams I marked the beams with a sequence number and on top I provided a marking of the centerline in order to be able to properly center the floorbeams during assembly.

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Johan, as very few people know, volcanic lava, especially that from Lanzarote, comes back to life after some time ... I advise you to place your She, once finished, in a resistant "sealed chamber" just to avoid future problems ... I used pebbles from the Ligurian sea, but that is its environment ...
Hey Piero,
Thanks for the heads-up, it's appreciated.
I'm aware of the moist-absorption properties of specific vulcanic particles. This material is often used on Lanzarote to absorb and redistribute moisture and it is frequently seen as cover for open fields.
I'm not aware of other (detrimental) properties.
 
Off topic, but that's how it has to be.
Tonight I informally said my goodbyes to my former productgroup collegues. Due to all the imposed corona restrictions of the past two years it happened a year and a half late, but not due to lack of trying...
A while ago I expressed my wish on this site to build an aircraft after completing my Bluenose build, preferably a Fokker DVII. Unfortunately, a kit like the one @Dean62 is building of the Shopwith Camel is not around for this Fokker specific aircraft. But lo and behold, one of the goodbye gifts I received from my collegues was a (plastic) model kit of... drumroll... the Fokker DVII!
So looking forward to building this nice little model. :D

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The last couple of days I have been running some ballast-gluing tests. So far I'm not happy with the results.
I tried four different adhesives; Bison woodglue, D2, Bison multi glue, Zhanlida B-7000 and Noch ballast glue for railways. The adhesives I used so far don't have the right viscosity to be useful. I also tried using tape to prevent the thinner adhesives creeping into the wood of the frames and non-sticking baking paper. To date I haven't found a satisfying solution. Now curing are my two remaining options, using baking paper and the woodglue and the B-7000 glue.
If those options don't work out either, I'll have to admit defeat and will forego on the ballast option...Sick

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Off topic, but that's how it has to be.
Tonight I informally said my goodbyes to my former productgroup collegues. Due to all the imposed corona restrictions of the past two years it happened a year and a half late, but not due to lack of trying...
A while ago I expressed my wish on this site to build an aircraft after completing my Bluenose build, preferably a Fokker DVII. Unfortunately, a kit like the one @Dean62 is building of the Shopwith Camel is not around for this Fokker specific aircraft. But lo and behold, one of the goodbye gifts I received from my collegues was a (plastic) model kit of... drumroll... the Fokker DVII!
So looking forward to building this nice little model. :D

View attachment 301235
Hopefully they realize the DVII would be a popular kit! ;)
They have the DR1 and the Eindecker. Seems they overlooked the best one?
 
I am watching the ballast/glue outcome with interest, Johan I wish I could have sent you the glue that I am using to try. It is a Chinese brand of PVA, but it's different to all PVA's I have tried. It takes longer to dry, but dries absolutely colorless, can be diluted (almost as much as you want without losing adhesion) and once it has fully cured, is very very strong.
 
I am watching the ballast/glue outcome with interest, Johan I wish I could have sent you the glue that I am using to try. It is a Chinese brand of PVA, but it's different to all PVA's I have tried. It takes longer to dry, but dries absolutely colorless, can be diluted (almost as much as you want without losing adhesion) and once it has fully cured, is very very strong.
I tried to get my hands on the glue Peter used on his BN, but I couldn't find it, unfortunately.
Currently contemplating a slightly different approach, but that's an option I have to try out on the actual model. Now I'm anxious...
 
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