Always nice to ad scratch made parts. And with some color the get alive.
Regards, Peter
Regards, Peter
Good morning Johan. OHLA LA...!!!! Brilliant. Cheers Grant
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Last Monday night @Peter Voogt and I met at Peter's home.
As I was struggling with the entire drive train for the windlass, especially the intertermediate drive, Peter offered me ánd some welcome advice ánd some very useful parts; gears and Evergreen profiles in various shapes and sizes.
While Peter and I were dealing with the technicalities of the foredeck installations, Peter's Admiral prepared us a tasteful diner.
After diner we still had some time left to see the progress being made on Peter's masts, booms, gaffs and sails. Although the pictures in Peter's blog show the details very well, they don't do justice to the scale, the parts are a lot smaller than one might be led to believe. We already mentioned that the diameters of the masts, etc, as supplied with the kit, are too large. The same applies to the diameters of the with the kit supplied pers; too large. It really pays to carefully check all the dimensions and getting the parts close to what they are supposed to be, based on the 1:72 scale.
Having sufficient parts, I now could start on the various parts for the windlass. Unfortunately I made no pictures of the different fabrication stages, sorry, but I am now close to the stage where I can start work on the additional drive train parts.
An overview of the windlass drive train parts, with the landings for the fishhold hatches in the background.
Below the windlass, modified, with the correct position of the the whelps (the drums with concave curvature), between the windlass riding bitts, instead of being positioned outside of the riding bitts.
Added are three gears, which were not part of the kit. Unfortunately the width of the parts was more than the pitch between the riding bits, so I had to reduce the length of the two whelps.
The windlass per the YQ build instructions.
This is my interpretation of the setup of the gear, attached to the engine's drive chain. On top the jumbo boom crotch.
And this is the same assembly, now per the original instructions.
All painted parts still need to be completed by applying a satin gloss varnish.
Next step is to complete the windlass assembly with the riding bitts, followed by installation on the foredeck. Then I can continue my tinkering with the gears between the first gears and the windlass.
To be continued...
As I was struggling with the entire drive train for the windlass, especially the intertermediate drive, Peter offered me ánd some welcome advice ánd some very useful parts; gears and Evergreen profiles in various shapes and sizes.
While Peter and I were dealing with the technicalities of the foredeck installations, Peter's Admiral prepared us a tasteful diner.
After diner we still had some time left to see the progress being made on Peter's masts, booms, gaffs and sails. Although the pictures in Peter's blog show the details very well, they don't do justice to the scale, the parts are a lot smaller than one might be led to believe. We already mentioned that the diameters of the masts, etc, as supplied with the kit, are too large. The same applies to the diameters of the with the kit supplied pers; too large. It really pays to carefully check all the dimensions and getting the parts close to what they are supposed to be, based on the 1:72 scale.
Having sufficient parts, I now could start on the various parts for the windlass. Unfortunately I made no pictures of the different fabrication stages, sorry, but I am now close to the stage where I can start work on the additional drive train parts.
An overview of the windlass drive train parts, with the landings for the fishhold hatches in the background.
Below the windlass, modified, with the correct position of the the whelps (the drums with concave curvature), between the windlass riding bitts, instead of being positioned outside of the riding bitts.
Added are three gears, which were not part of the kit. Unfortunately the width of the parts was more than the pitch between the riding bits, so I had to reduce the length of the two whelps.
The windlass per the YQ build instructions.
This is my interpretation of the setup of the gear, attached to the engine's drive chain. On top the jumbo boom crotch.
And this is the same assembly, now per the original instructions.
All painted parts still need to be completed by applying a satin gloss varnish.
Next step is to complete the windlass assembly with the riding bitts, followed by installation on the foredeck. Then I can continue my tinkering with the gears between the first gears and the windlass.
To be continued...
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Thanks Grant!
Nice to see your interpretation of the windlass and the whelps and how it’s growing. With details such as the brackets with nails around the axles on the front of the drive chain. A real challenge, such a complex mechanism in such a small space on this scale.
Regards, Peter
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Bugger, you spotted it. Good catch!
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Thanks Peter,
Too bad I don't have enough room between the bitts, meaning the large gear is positioned too close to the center of the Samson post. The pitch between the bitts should have been a little larger, thus giving more room to play with, but since I am not planning to add all details, like all lever- and brake details, it's good enough for me as it is. To be honest, I never planned to add as much detail as I'm currently incorporating.
But as they say: "Goed voorbeeld doet goed volgen." (A good example tends to be followed.)
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Having quite a few Evergreen parts, meant I could fabricate another support for the intermediate gear. My first attempt was a monopart, which made it apparant I'm not equipped to pull that off. The second try was to create a support from several wooden parts. This showed improvement, but I still wasn't entirely happy with the support and also @Alf in Iowa suggested to use Evergreen polystyrene profiles instead of wood.
So after been given a load of profiles by @Peter Voog, I started my third try at these supports.
The main issue is still the size, the parts are ridiculously small; the completed support measures 16x7mm.
Below the three tries: in the RH bottom corner the first, solid wood try. The RH top shows the multipart wooden support, while the LH mid shows the polystyrene support.
The picture below is an extract from the "Saga". The last polystyrene support at least resembles this sketch.
Again all three supports, but now added the axle with the intermediate gears.
Too bad I still can't follow the presumed windlass drive train configuration, since the YQ design differs from the "Saga" sketches.
In all I'm rather inclined to continue with my last try. Applying a coat of primer and some paint will probably do wonders. (Fingers crossed...)
So after been given a load of profiles by @Peter Voog, I started my third try at these supports.
The main issue is still the size, the parts are ridiculously small; the completed support measures 16x7mm.
Below the three tries: in the RH bottom corner the first, solid wood try. The RH top shows the multipart wooden support, while the LH mid shows the polystyrene support.
The picture below is an extract from the "Saga". The last polystyrene support at least resembles this sketch.
Again all three supports, but now added the axle with the intermediate gears.
Too bad I still can't follow the presumed windlass drive train configuration, since the YQ design differs from the "Saga" sketches.
In all I'm rather inclined to continue with my last try. Applying a coat of primer and some paint will probably do wonders. (Fingers crossed...)
Good morning Johan. As they say…”The devil is in the detail” …so true when you are making these tiny parts. Your third attempt is definitely the best. Cheers Grant
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I painted my third attempt and dry fitted the supports and intermediate gear in the focsle. Definitely looks great. Next: apply some varnish and attach the assembly to the foredeck.
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Thanks Heinrich, this has been a high-rewarding little side project.That is a super clean assembly Johan. It certainly looks great. Your scratch-building is coming along in leaps and bounds!
Here's where I fully benefited from being a member of SOS, receiving freely given advice and assistance.
The same applies here: the time and energy invested has been paid out. Well done, Johan.
Regards, Peter
I agree with our colleagues. That's a first class piece of micro-construction Johan!
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Thank you both for your compliments. I can't tell you how pleased I am with the results. I started the build with little desire to go beyond the drawings and build-instructions, but over time and inspired by a lot of other builders, I discovered the satisfaction of adding missing details and scratch building those bits and pieces. Looking forward to the next customisation.
These are wise words. It's easy to skip over some of the details because they look too hard, or will take too long, or... But more times than not the hesitation comes from not being really sure how to accomplish what it is you are trying to accomplish. It's here the forum steps in and provides inspiration and instruction.
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The windlass won't be of much use without the engine driving the windlass. The engine is housed in a box on the foredeck with a shroud running from the engine casing to the primary driven gears, to protect, I assume, the crew from getting caught in the chain.
Since the drive train from the primary driven gears via the intermediate gears to the windlass is rather complete, I could now focus my attention towards the engine casing and the shroud, extending from the engine casing to the primary gears.
The two assemblies were made using the kit-supplied parts, although I decided to open up the starboard side of the engine casing, staying within the theme of the POF-build with the exposed starboard side.
I also wanted to have working hinges of the lid of the casing.
The first try, no pictures taken, were three simple hinges, but their appearance didn't suit me and on top of that the hinge line was not parallel to the edge of the lid. For the hinges I used 1,0mm copper pipe and a 0,5mm rod. I used some CA-adhesive to lock the hinge pin in the pipe. I also bonded the hinges to polystyrene strips, which in turn were bonded to the fixed part ov the casing and the lid.
But as I said, I was not happy with this arrangement, although the number of hinges matched the YQ design.
So it was back to the drawing board, figuratively speaking.
I came up with a hinge design for which I don't have proper description, so I'll show some pictures of the final result. Maybe someone can help me with the proper nomenclature.
Given the larger volume the new hinge design occupied, I could no longer accommodate three hinges, so I invoked AL-FI rights.
An overview of the engine casing with the drive shroud. The drive shroud has a hole for the axle feed through. The starboard side of the casing is opened up.
The two hinges can clearly be distinguished. An advantage of this design is, that since the hinge pin is locked at the outer ends, the lid is kept in place.
The lid shown in the open position.
For sends of size the Admiral lend a hand.
This picture shows the casing and shroud from the port side and slightly aft.
Now it's a matter of cleaning up and painting the parts, followed by installation to the foredeck.
Since the drive train from the primary driven gears via the intermediate gears to the windlass is rather complete, I could now focus my attention towards the engine casing and the shroud, extending from the engine casing to the primary gears.
The two assemblies were made using the kit-supplied parts, although I decided to open up the starboard side of the engine casing, staying within the theme of the POF-build with the exposed starboard side.
I also wanted to have working hinges of the lid of the casing.
The first try, no pictures taken, were three simple hinges, but their appearance didn't suit me and on top of that the hinge line was not parallel to the edge of the lid. For the hinges I used 1,0mm copper pipe and a 0,5mm rod. I used some CA-adhesive to lock the hinge pin in the pipe. I also bonded the hinges to polystyrene strips, which in turn were bonded to the fixed part ov the casing and the lid.
But as I said, I was not happy with this arrangement, although the number of hinges matched the YQ design.
So it was back to the drawing board, figuratively speaking.
I came up with a hinge design for which I don't have proper description, so I'll show some pictures of the final result. Maybe someone can help me with the proper nomenclature.
Given the larger volume the new hinge design occupied, I could no longer accommodate three hinges, so I invoked AL-FI rights.
An overview of the engine casing with the drive shroud. The drive shroud has a hole for the axle feed through. The starboard side of the casing is opened up.
The two hinges can clearly be distinguished. An advantage of this design is, that since the hinge pin is locked at the outer ends, the lid is kept in place.
The lid shown in the open position.
For sends of size the Admiral lend a hand.
This picture shows the casing and shroud from the port side and slightly aft.
Now it's a matter of cleaning up and painting the parts, followed by installation to the foredeck.
Looking good Johan! The windlass is far more complex than most realize. Not so much from an engineering stand point, but due to part count and drive train components, it’s gets a bit crowded at scale. Especially if you add most or all of the components.
That are some very fine nice boxes, Johan. Nice from your Admiral she was willing to help with the picture. But if you use your own hand, the boxes will look much smaller
But it is that after all the attempts, you kept going until you had a workable solution that you were satisfied with. AL-FI was a big help!
Regards, Peter
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Looking good Johan! The windlass is far more complex than most realize. Not so much from an engineering stand point, but due to part count and drive train components, it’s gets a bit crowded at scale. Especially if you add most or all of the components.
That are some very fine nice boxes, Johan. Nice from your Admiral she was willing to help with the picture. But if you use your own hand, the boxes will look much smaller
But it is that after all the attempts, you kept going until you had a workable solution that you were satisfied with. AL-FI was a big help!
Regards, Peter
Having slept over it for a night, I decided I wasn't happy with the engine casing...
Since the weather went south this afternoon, I had ample time to redo the engine box.
In the left hand top corner in the picture below my first try. Right center is the fruit of my labor this afternoon. A lot more pleasing to the eye, plus I added a removable port side access panel. Both top- and side access covers (lower side of the picture below) still need to be equipped with hinges, but this is where I've gotten stuck. I tried to minimize the size of the hinges, while simultaneously get the hinge line as close as I can to the top surface of the access covers. Where I initially was successful, today my efforts went straight into the dustbin. (One of my jars is filling up pretty nicely today.)
My next step will be to try whether or not soldering the hinges is a feasible option. To be continued.
