YQ Bluenose by Johan [COMPLETED BUILD]

Today was a fun day. While nearing completion of the hull, the focus is starting to shift to other sub-projects. The attention went first of all to the bowsprit. I delayed working on and installing the bowsprit, because these protruding parts are accident magnets and have a close relation with Mr Murphy.
Unfortunately the time is now to start working on the bowsprit, this has all to do with the foredeck becoming extremely crowded once all the bits and pieces are installed, leaving little to no room for later installation of the bowsprit.
With respect to the bowsprit, the YQ build instructions are sparse, but the drawings are luckily better.
Before pulling out the part, I checked, again, some of my predecessors' build logs, but also the website of the suburbanshipmodeler. After sketching what the part should look like, I decided to add the rectangular base of the bowsprit and also the diameter reductions at the tip, thus accommodating the hardware for the rigging.
Also in preparation is the Samson post, because as soon as I've inserted the bowsprit, it has to be attached to said post. Once the bowsprit and Samson post have been installed, I'll turn my attention towards completing the bowsprit; I want to add some bits and pieces not in the YQ build instructions, but that's for another day.

The base configuration: Since I don't have a large wastebin to select scrap material from, in other words no piece of 5x5 wood, I decided to use woodstrips of various widths to create a square base. I wanted a 5mm square base, so I sanded to bowsprit down to square 3mm, than added the strips of 5mm and 3mm wide. After curing I applied some chamfer and a transition from square to round.
CFCA8879-DDB7-4584-A282-DA3801BED6A5.jpeg

At the opposite end I reduced the diameter of the bowsprit, more or less in line with what @Peter Voogt did on his bowsprit.
F0F733EB-241E-419A-9207-E54DD913D127.jpeg

The unfinished bowsprit
24256B4C-2233-4115-B231-C013A6113EFE.jpeg

Dry-fit with bowsprit and Samson post in place.
The Samson post still needs trimming, but the fit is great.
E21D18C3-5809-4A99-8BD6-459E2A9CC726.jpeg
 
Today was a fun day. While nearing completion of the hull, the focus is starting to shift to other sub-projects. The attention went first of all to the bowsprit. I delayed working on and installing the bowsprit, because these protruding parts are accident magnets and have a close relation with Mr Murphy.
Unfortunately the time is now to start working on the bowsprit, this has all to do with the foredeck becoming extremely crowded once all the bits and pieces are installed, leaving little to no room for later installation of the bowsprit.
With respect to the bowsprit, the YQ build instructions are sparse, but the drawings are luckily better.
Before pulling out the part, I checked, again, some of my predecessors' build logs, but also the website of the suburbanshipmodeler. After sketching what the part should look like, I decided to add the rectangular base of the bowsprit and also the diameter reductions at the tip, thus accommodating the hardware for the rigging.
Also in preparation is the Samson post, because as soon as I've inserted the bowsprit, it has to be attached to said post. Once the bowsprit and Samson post have been installed, I'll turn my attention towards completing the bowsprit; I want to add some bits and pieces not in the YQ build instructions, but that's for another day.

The base configuration: Since I don't have a large wastebin to select scrap material from, in other words no piece of 5x5 wood, I decided to use woodstrips of various widths to create a square base. I wanted a 5mm square base, so I sanded to bowsprit down to square 3mm, than added the strips of 5mm and 3mm wide. After curing I applied some chamfer and a transition from square to round.
View attachment 334306

At the opposite end I reduced the diameter of the bowsprit, more or less in line with what @Peter Voogt did on his bowsprit.
View attachment 334302

The unfinished bowsprit
View attachment 334304

Dry-fit with bowsprit and Samson post in place.
The Samson post still needs trimming, but the fit is great.
View attachment 334305
Good afternoon Johan. Perfect fit - awesome.Re your strips and decorations. They are exquisite. Such a small thing and the schooner changes. Makes a remarkable difference. At times it pays to forgo “accuracy “ and go for presentation. Certainly paid off here. I agree - no redo. Cheers Grant
 
Good afternoon Johan. Perfect fit - awesome.Re your strips and decorations. They are exquisite. Such a small thing and the schooner changes. Makes a remarkable difference. At times it pays to forgo “accuracy “ and go for presentation. Certainly paid off here. I agree - no redo. Cheers Grant
Thanks Grant,
Whenever I go upstairs, I just have to go to the shipyard, to take a look.
When I started about 10 months ago, I had many reservations and I encountered a few setbacks. Looking at the current status, I'm very happy with the way she looks.
 
Your build is coming along beautifully Johan. For sure, there will always be set backs (goodness knows, I have had a few of those), but your last few sentences say it all. The fact that you just have to go and take a quick squizz at her when not working on the ship, says it all. That is called pride of ownership, and knowing you, that is not a destination easily arrived at - for that you set the bar far too high.
 
Your build is coming along beautifully Johan. For sure, there will always be set backs (goodness knows, I have had a few of those), but your last few sentences say it all. The fact that you just have to go and take a quick squizz at her when not working on the ship, says it all. That is called pride of ownership, and knowing you, that is not a destination easily arrived at - for that you set the bar far too high.
Thanks for your more than friendly words, Heinrich.
I am not sure I deserve all your accolades, but they're gracefully accepted.
As far as setting the bar too high, I'm afraid it's in the system. Although I lack the craftmanship (and sometimes the tools as well; an awfull lot of the sanding, filing and painting is done by hand), I have to do my utmost to make this model a worthy representation of her full scale example.
(Plus the Admiral's permission is required for living room exhibition...)
 
Good start to your bowsprit Johan Thumbsup

For some reason I still find the bowsprit one of the most attractive parts of wooden sailing ships, so well worth the effort to get it right :)
 
Good start to your bowsprit Johan Thumbsup

For some reason I still find the bowsprit one of the most attractive parts of wooden sailing ships, so well worth the effort to get it right :)
I thought the bowsprit would be a straightforward little side project....
Now I find myself in the midst of the build of an almost fully scrap build bowsprit.
 
I am trying to use the YQ-supplied parts for the name shields, just to see if I can get it to work, with an acceptable result.
The letters are etched into the shields, making it hard to paint them.

First try, leave the shields "golden" and paint the letters indigo blue. Paint on, wipe off. FAIL!
C4BE26DA-37E4-4B01-A690-EFD39AC0CB40.jpeg

Second try, first painted the shields with the indigo blue and trying to apply the gold with a gold colored marker pen. FAIL!
86B3ECB2-F79C-42CF-9E7B-9E24DDF467D4.jpeg

Third try, cleaned the shields, applied primer, two layers of indigo blue and two applications of acrylic paint, thanks to the Admiral. As topcoat I applied two coats of water based varnish. Not perfect, but a very passable effort.
FED79A17-F307-421A-9AAA-3E11407BF706.jpeg
 
The bowsprit has become a full blown project.
YQ has designed a very straightforward bowsprit, rather easy to process.
Unfortunately, quite a few standing rigging parts attach to forward most tip of the bowsprit; the back ropes, two guys, two bobstays and two jibstays, all requiring an attachment, plus the odd running rigging attachments.
Using YQ's design, using "eyebolts", would result in a perforated bowsprit tip; one would need at least ten eyebolts.
That makes that tip looking like a Swiss cheese...
Since I don't feel very happy about a perforated bowsprit tip, I decided to have go at scratch build fittings, nothing new, here on SOS, but novel to me.
Using some scrap strips from the kit, a soldering iron, a lot of patience and a lot of time I finally had my first bowsprit fitting (my bad words yar is filling up quite nicely...). Btw, the inner diameter of the cylindrical part of the fitting is 3mm.

5FDABD02-17BE-40D9-A12E-F9339F1DA28E.jpeg
 
I am trying to use the YQ-supplied parts for the name shields, just to see if I can get it to work, with an acceptable result.
The letters are etched into the shields, making it hard to paint them.

First try, leave the shields "golden" and paint the letters indigo blue. Paint on, wipe off. FAIL!
View attachment 334909

Second try, first painted the shields with the indigo blue and trying to apply the gold with a gold colored marker pen. FAIL!
View attachment 334910

Third try, cleaned the shields, applied primer, two layers of indigo blue and two applications of acrylic paint, thanks to the Admiral. As topcoat I applied two coats of water based varnish. Not perfect, but a very passable effort.
View attachment 334911
The bowsprit has become a full blown project.
YQ has designed a very straightforward bowsprit, rather easy to process.
Unfortunately, quite a few standing rigging parts attach to forward most tip of the bowsprit; the back ropes, two guys, two bobstays and two jibstays, all requiring an attachment, plus the odd running rigging attachments.
Using YQ's design, using "eyebolts", would result in a perforated bowsprit tip; one would need at least ten eyebolts.
That makes that tip looking like a Swiss cheese...
Since I don't feel very happy about a perforated bowsprit tip, I decided to have go at scratch build fittings, nothing new, here on SOS, but novel to me.
Using some scrap strips from the kit, a soldering iron, a lot of patience and a lot of time I finally had my first bowsprit fitting (my bad words yar is filling up quite nicely...). Btw, the inner diameter of the cylindrical part of the fitting is 3mm.

View attachment 334933
Some productive hours, Johan. With nice results! And discovered new skills :).
Regards, Peter
 
Third try, cleaned the shields, applied primer, two layers of indigo blue and two applications of acrylic paint, thanks to the Admiral. As topcoat I applied two coats of water based varnish. Not perfect, but a very passable effort.
Good work on the nameplate Johan. I remember similar issues with AL's nameplate for my Bluenose which required some delicate black paintwork to blend the gold frame that encircles the name into the black background of the hull, effectively hiding it. Definitely a steady-hand kind of job, and definitely a re-do kind of job as well. Yours has come out well, and you'll appreciate it when the audience of your finished model is drawn to the name of the ship, as they invariably are :)
 
Good work on the nameplate Johan. I remember similar issues with AL's nameplate for my Bluenose which required some delicate black paintwork to blend the gold frame that encircles the name into the black background of the hull, effectively hiding it. Definitely a steady-hand kind of job, and definitely a re-do kind of job as well. Yours has come out well, and you'll appreciate it when the audience of your finished model is drawn to the name of the ship, as they invariably are :)
Thanks, Mark.
Those apparently minor jobs sometimes causes a lot of headaches, but once the end result proves satisfactory...
Plus, when seeing the high quality builds here on SOS, left, right and center, I just want to raise my own standards.

The two nameshields on the hull:
04E04E60-DDC8-44EC-860B-BDB46ADA29DF.jpeg23696A66-2E0F-4BED-80E0-1F14B16B615D.jpeg
 
And a second fitting saw light.
Same process used as for the first fitting, only differences were the diameter, dia 4mm/.157" and 4- instead of 3 eyes.
This is the proces I used:
- Drill a 0,8mm/0,032" hole in a strip of 2mm/0,078" wide. The strips are from the frames in which the etched parts, like the name plates, were held. The edge distances are a matter of opinion, I used 2,5mm/0,098" from the top of the strip.
- Mark the bend line at 4mm/.157" from the top.
- Position a drill bit of 4mm/.157" in a small vise.
- From approx the marked bend line, start bending the strip around the drill bit.
- When the strip is through approx180 degrees, take the strip away from the drill bit and fold the top of the strip through 90 degrees, thus creating the first eye plate.
- Reposition the strip around the drill bit, fold it further towards the folded tip.
- It is not possible to go through a full 360 degrees, but trimming the excess length of the strip and a bit of tweaking will get you the base part of the fitting and your first eye plate.
- Solder the end of the strip to the bottom of the bend of the first eye plate.
- Cut three strips with a similar width as the base part and drill the 0,8mm/0,032" holes. The length of the strips are rather arbitrary, as long as you can clamp and hold them in place during soldering, everything goes.
- Solder the three eye plates to the base strip at 90 degree intervals. This is not as easy as it sounds; the parts are so small, that applying the heat for just a little too long results in previous connections becoming detached.
- Trim the eye plates to whatever shape you like, chamfered, a smooth radius…

Below the result after soldering, I need to tidy up the fitting, but the part is so small, I don't have any idea yet on how to get it smooth and good-looking.

6173E50E-0F3A-4D32-AE4C-E173AB41DDF0.jpeg
 
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