YUANQING BLUENOSE - Peter Voogt [COMPLETED BUILD]

The Sailor said:
Ho provato ad usare olio di paglia (olio di balena) su alcuni pezzi di ricambio ma scurisce i vari pezzi soprattutto i telai che diventano, secondo me, troppo scuri...
Click to expand...
Strano che a me non è capitato , con un batuffolo di panno di lana lo strofino fino ad asciugarlo , po darsi che sia il tipo di legno
 
The Sailor said:
I tried to use straw oil (whale oil) on some spare parts but it darkens the various pieces especially the frames which become, in my opinion, too dark ...
Click to expand...
Frank48 said:
Strange that it did not happen to me, with a woolen cloth I rub it until it dries, maybe it is the type of wood
Click to expand...
The method of application really makes a difference. See below ........
 
Made a new plank with treenails. And applied 2 layers of linseed oil with a cloth. While releasing it is immediately polished.
During drying, the planks and treenails on the starboard side are sanded:
579 Starboard.jpg
With oblique daylight. Then you also see the changing coloring of the wood depending on the angle of incidence of the light.

With the new test:
580 Oil.jpg
With the light coming straight from the front and the side. The treenails come out nicely here in my opinion. Lighter than the wood and with a small dark edge.
And they don't disappoint in size either.
I think I know what it's going to be. :)
regards, Peter
 
Last edited:
Peter Voogt said:
Ho fatto una nuova tavola con le unghie degli alberi. E applicato 2 strati di olio di lino con un panno. Durante il rilascio viene immediatamente lucidato.
Durante l'asciugatura si carteggiano le tavole e le unghie sul lato di dritta:
View attachment 284124
Con luce diurna obliqua. Quindi vedi anche la colorazione mutevole del legno a seconda dell'angolo di incidenza della luce.

Con il nuovo test:
View attachment 284126
Con la luce che arriva direttamente dalla parte anteriore e laterale. Le unghie degli alberi escono bene qui secondo me. Più chiaro del legno e con un piccolo bordo scuro.
E non deludono nemmeno per le dimensioni.
Penso di sapere cosa sarà. :)
saluti, Pietro
Click to expand...
Buongiorno Pietro , se vuoi mi mandi la Tua Email?
 
The decision made to put the starboard side in the linseed oil. The frames with all the nooks and crannies with the brush, but the planking with a cloth. While releasing, spinning, with some drying in between, this appeared:
581 Starboard 2022-01-19.jpg
582 Starboard 2022-01-19.jpg
The part below the waterline also buffed with the linseed oil cloth.

Zoom in a bit:
583 Starboard 2022-01-19.jpg
The oil can now penetrate further into the wood. The drawing will probably be even more beautiful.
Regards, Peter
 
I'm also glad I didn't use the entire slats for planking. They were also not so long that they ran the entire length of the hull. The drawing of the wood grain now changes at the plank transitions. I cut pieces of about 12 cm. That is about +/- 12 frames. That's pretty similar to the original 25 to 30 feet.
I used a irregular pattern of planking because on top the 2 big composite parts of YQ the imitation plank welds were spread over several numbers of frames. That's why I also used a few shorter ones.
Regards, Peter
 
Last edited:
Peter Voogt said:
Sono anche contento di non aver usato tutte le doghe per il fasciame. Inoltre, non erano così lunghi da percorrere l'intera lunghezza della fusoliera. Il disegno della venatura del legno ora cambia in corrispondenza delle transizioni della tavola. Ho tagliato dei pezzi di circa 12 cm. Cioè circa +/- 12 fotogrammi. È abbastanza simile all'originale da 25 a 30 piedi.
Ho usato una banda selvaggia perché sulle prime 2 parti composite di YQ le finte saldature della tavola erano distribuite su diversi numeri di telai. Ecco perché in alcuni posti ne usavano di più brevi.
Saluti, Pietro
Click to expand...
Ciao Pietro , molto bello sia come aspetto che pulizia ,Complimenti
 
Hi Peter, great work!

This result of yours is exactly what my ultimate goal will be! Not covering the starboard side with skate for planking was my idea from the start because it covers half a model of her beauty! In this way it will be possible to display Her on both sides because, clearly, the most attractive side is the one with the frames on sight.

In the meantime, I am busy cleaning the 10,248 beams of the upper and lower decks and my fingers have already reached the phalanges from the "relentless" use of files and sandpaper ...
 
Peter Voogt said:
First started with the hand-drill. After 10 holes, I broke my drill bit. Then with the Dremel with a few mm pointed drill and it went very well:
View attachment 283175

The toothpicks pointed into the Byrnes Drawplate in hole 26:
View attachment 283176

And started gluing:
View attachment 283177

Now get rid of a stock, cut off, repoint and reuse. 'We are economical'.
Regards, Peter
Click to expand...
Hallo Peter,
this is a good odea to draw the tooth-picks into the drawplate - so you get a regular diameter - I guess a better result like I do without this working step -> I will try it also in this way
Many Thanks for showing this
 
Pathfinder65 said:
That is absolutely gorgeous. A very pleasant, eye pleasing combination.
Jan
Click to expand...
Thanxs Jan. I sit here with a big smile. :)
Frank48 said:
Hi Pietro, very nice both in appearance and cleanliness, Complimenti
Click to expand...
You also thanxs, Frank.
dockattner said:
A fine bit of work Peter. The POF shows nicely.
Click to expand...
Thanxs, Paul. This half open site is till now my favorite side. ;)
The Sailor said:
Hi Peter, great work!
This result of yours is exactly what my ultimate goal will be! Not covering the starboard side with skate for planking was my idea from the start because it covers half a model of her beauty! In this way it will be possible to display Her on both sides because, clearly, the most attractive side is the one with the frames on sight.
In the meantime, I am busy cleaning the 10,248 beams of the upper and lower decks and my fingers have already reached the phalanges from the "relentless" use of files and sandpaper ...
Click to expand...
Grazie, Piero. As a wrote to Paul, the favorite side indeed. And .... then we sit together with the fingers up.
Henk Liebre said:
Your BN grows and grows...
And shines on the horizon
Click to expand...
Dankjewel Henk, Step by step and go for it.
Uwek said:
Hallo Peter,
this is a good odea to draw the tooth-picks into the drawplate - so you get a regular diameter - I guess a better result like I do without this working step -> I will try it also in this way
Many Thanks for showing this
Click to expand...
Uwek said:
Very good result - great appearance
Click to expand...
Thanxs Uwe. I estimated that if you tap a toothpick with a tapered point in with these kind of small holes, you only widen that hole. You'll get a few tenths in no time. From then you might have to drill 0.5. And tapping it might end up at 0.8.
Now I turned the rounded tip in with a tip of wood glue and the release of the glue caused the rest of the toothpick just above the hole to turn.
 
Last edited:
The Sailor said:
... a couple more things I forgot Peter: did you use linseed oil? How long did you wait before using the sanding sandpaper, or did you just let it dry?
Click to expand...
I used boiled linseed oil. I first sanded the wood and then polished it. I have plastic blocks for that in 3 grades. You can also use finer sandpaper.
Then I applied 3 layers with a cloth with an interval of 15 minutes to dry. Always release the layer first and then release the new layer of oil. Keep turning and moving. Between the layers of olie I did no sanding anymore.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top