Wow, I thought I was the only one with that problem. iPhone, iPad and Mac Pro. Have to make sure I scrub my right index finger and thumb after each gluing sessionHaha, that was the same on my iMac
YUANQING BLUENOSE - Peter Voogt [COMPLETED BUILD]
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
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After a night at 18 dgr.C, the linseed oil has dried up to a smooth, silky matte sheen.
To show what applying with a cloth and always releasing with linseed oil can do, 2 more photos.
I placed the hull at an angle to the incident daylight so that you get an idea of the course of the color shades at different viewing angles:
From this angle you can also see the beautiful course of the curves of the hull:
The fully planked port side becomes more challenging with even more curves and curves.
Regards, Peter
To show what applying with a cloth and always releasing with linseed oil can do, 2 more photos.
I placed the hull at an angle to the incident daylight so that you get an idea of the course of the color shades at different viewing angles:
From this angle you can also see the beautiful course of the curves of the hull:
The fully planked port side becomes more challenging with even more curves and curves.
Regards, Peter
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Buongiorno Pietro, prova a levigare con la retina di acciaio (quella che si usa in cucina) molto fina,, fammi sapere
Thanxs, Frank, but I won't.
The rubbing / polishing with the oil damped cloth gives for me this nice result. No further expiriments (if you don't mind).Regards, Peter
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Beautiful...
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era un prova da fare su uno scarto non sul modello , tranquillo il modello lo devi gestire solo Tu , cerco di trasmettere le mie esperienzeGrazie, Frank, ma non lo farò.
Saluti, Pietro
Thank you, Heinrich. I'm glad I oiled this side and not black.The wood is looking beautiful, Peter! You deserve your very big smile!
So estimate that the chainplates and lines also combine nicely. Because, yes, I've already thought about that. I still have gold foil from The Lee.
Regards, Peter
Thanxs, Stephan. My Admiral's father was a painter. He mentioned about the fire in Linseed oil damped cloths.
And in my former profession I once investigated such a fire.
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I said it before
She will shine
I have one more question about the planking
Why not start at the stern with the planks ?
I would have done this myself, by looking at the side of the hull, you cover the back
You have a reason for it, but I can't think of it
Mvg
Henk
She will shine
I have one more question about the planking
Why not start at the stern with the planks ?
I would have done this myself, by looking at the side of the hull, you cover the back
You have a reason for it, but I can't think of it
Mvg
Henk
Watch out for a (longer) answer:
Fact 1: If you have a car with a flat rear, there will be a lot more rain and dirt left on that rear than on the sides. I think that's the 'wake'.
Fact 2: The ends of planks have a feeling for watering in, so watch out for rot.
If you plank the stern first and then the sides, all the ends of the side planks protrude at the back. Which therefore stores more water because of the wake.
If I Plank the stern after the sides, the stern planks covers those ends at the back.
Then I have the ends of the stern planks, but they are on the side and the wind blows past them and carries the water off more easily. So they are less sensitive to water.
Just like the side of the car stays cleaner compared to the rear.
Then there is the visual aspect:
Do you want the ends on the back or on the side? If you paint the hull of the BN black, it doesn't matter. With by my BN you will see them on the starboard side. But then they are right and flat next to each other because of the almost flat surface of the stern. The hull planks follows the strong curve of the hull at the rear. And it is more difficult to get the planks flat and tight on that curve. Or you should shape the curves of the back into a polygon, with planes the width of the planks. And chamfer the planks slightly at an angle.
By my BN, the stern planks will cover that.
No idea if this order of planking is shipbuilding technically correct. But this is my theory and part of my ‘Overthinking’.
So you can discus and reason this in all directions.
So maybe they've done it always wrong?
Regards, Peter
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That's awesome Peter, the linseed oil really brought the richness of the wood to the fore
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Ok Peter
Thanks for your valuable information
I will at least think about it
Thanks for your valuable information
I will at least think about it
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Buongiorno Pietro, mica hai fatto a prova con la retina d'acciaio per vedere il risultato, Grazie
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Henk, Peter,Watch out for a (longer) answer:
Fact 1: If you have a car with a flat rear, there will be a lot more rain and dirt left on that rear than on the sides. I think that's the 'wake'.
Fact 2: The ends of planks have a feeling for watering in, so watch out for rot.
If you plank the stern first and then the sides, all the ends of the side planks protrude at the back. Which therefore stores more water because of the wake.
If I Plank the stern after the sides, the stern planks covers those ends at the back.
Then I have the ends of the stern planks, but they are on the side and the wind blows past them and carries the water off more easily. So they are less sensitive to water.
Just like the side of the car stays cleaner compared to the rear.
Then there is the visual aspect:
Do you want the ends on the back or on the side? If you paint the hull of the BN black, it doesn't matter. With by my BN you will see them on the starboard side. But then they are right and flat next to each other because of the almost flat surface of the stern. The hull planks follows the strong curve of the hull at the rear. And it is more difficult to get the planks flat and tight on that curve. Or you should shape the curves of the back into a polygon, with planes the width of the planks. And chamfer the planks slightly at an angle.
By my BN, the stern planks will cover that.
No idea if this order of planking is shipbuilding technically correct. But this is my theory and part of my ‘Overthinking’.
So you can discus and reason this in all directions.
So maybe they've done it always wrong?
Regards, Peter
This morning Henk and I met in person and also discussed this intriguing topic. So once home again I checked to see whether or not the "Saga" held some clues and sure it does. Please keep in mind the "Saga" describes the BN II, meaning that the BN I might have a different configuration.
Pages 108/109 give a pictorial indication that the hull's side planks covered the ends of the stern planks, see attached picture.
I'm not certain the wake turbulence argument is driving that configuration, I suspect that that area may be characterized as being wet, terribly wet and the turbulence is just adding to the agony of water intrusion...
On another Bluenose build I've seen the side planks being cut at the stern and the stern planks overlapping the side planks.
I guess it's AL-FI time again, it's your decision; what do you feel comfortable with and what do you want to present.
Have fun!
Johan
Thanxs, Mark. Especially with the release with the cloth of the oil it started to revive. It was much less with just brushing it on.That's awesome Peter, the linseed oil really brought the richness of the wood to the fore
Regards, Peter
All right, Henk. The YQ manual started also with the stern planking first .....
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