Just different. I suppose it's all fiddly at some level...Compared to the excellent painting on your Vasa this is a push over.
Just different. I suppose it's all fiddly at some level...Compared to the excellent painting on your Vasa this is a push over.
AgreedI was afraid of braking things that's why I fitted the bowsprit early. This is one part of the kit that hasn't been designed very well.
Sometimes it's these parts that gives me the most satisfaction especially when they're finished.Just different. I suppose it's all fiddly at some level...
As long as I can remember I've always been interested in the old sailing ships and making models but for the last 20 odd years had no time for either of them. As for terminology I'm still learning, what makes it worst I can't remember names. I was going to make my BP black as I didn't think the planking was going to be any good but I liked the look of the walnut on the hull so just added black highlights. What I would have done differently is use a lighter coloured wood for the decking. The nice thing I have noticed with the BP is there is so many different ways to finish them and they all look good.I really have come to like the color scheme you are using. The accents of lights and darks are just in the right places Tony. You guys are so much more advanced than me. Most here must be Naval guys. Every time you refer to a ship part, I'm looking it up and wondering where the hell it is. LOL Oh well, I hope to get there one day! Truly nice work!
terence from sydney great model you are building, after a number of years not doing any boat building now I am in a retirement village my grandson wanted a model of the BP great started building it (bought of E mail bad mistake ) so many parts missing Just found your build and great at least I can see where the parts go.you are doing a great job and like myself your background is toolmaking Thanks for putting your build s.o,s and I will keep following your build terence(terry Letherbarrow)As long as I can remember I've always been interested in the old sailing ships and making models but for the last 20 odd years had no time for either of them. As for terminology I'm still learning, what makes it worst I can't remember names. I was going to make my BP black as I didn't think the planking was going to be any good but I liked the look of the walnut on the hull so just added black highlights. What I would have done differently is use a lighter coloured wood for the decking. The nice thing I have noticed with the BP is there is so many different ways to finish them and they all look good.
Hi Terry up until a few months ago I never had time for modelling thanks to covid I've started again. It looks like you're off to a good start with your models if I can help you with the missing parts, information let me know. The standard instructions and plans are not very good but better than nothing.terence from sydney great model you are building, after a number of years not doing any boat building now I am in a retirement village my grandson wanted a model of the BP great started building it (bought of E mail bad mistake ) so many parts missing Just found your build and great at least I can see where the parts go.you are doing a great job and like myself your background is toolmaking Thanks for putting your build s.o,s and I will keep following your build terence(terry Letherbarrow)
Great job you're doing @Tony H . I really enjoy seeing your novel and helpful approach to various aspects of the build, especially your jigs. Am learning quite a bit from you too. Thanks a lot for sharing.Thanks for all the likes and encouragement, I hope everyone had a happy Easter and not to much chocolate. I have been pushing on with the rails and head timbers.
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The rails are difficult to get right mainly because of the round joining pieces lots of dry fitting and fiddling with the parts. All the blocks are pinned and glued in place. The parts where painted after gluing for a stronger joint.
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When l started the head timbers I had no idea how to make them, they needed to be bent around the bow as they stuck out to much.l couldn't find a way of assembling them off the ship. I began by making some wooden parts to insure that both sides are equal. With the rails held in place with rubber bands the vertical rails where fitted one by one.
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When all the vertical rails where fitted I removed the assembly and used it as a guide to assemble the other half.
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As it's easier to fit now I made up the bowsprit, the end is angled to match the front bulkhead and a dowel fitted for extra reinforcement.
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A piece of rope attached to the mizen mast was used to align the bowsprit.
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With the bowsprit in place I fitted the middle rail with the verticals attached then trimed the height of the vertical rails to suit the top rail.
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This is what I finished up with, its quite delicate and great care must taken when bending the rails.
Next up will be finishing the deck fittings then I'm saving the best for last the lanterns.
Any suggestions or questions please ask.
I was at fisherman's bend where Boeing took over from H. DHavaland for nearly 20years a record for me. Not sure what you mean by IE instructions. I can scan all pages or start from where your up to. There are only two sheets of plans these are for masts and rigging.Tony Hi thanks for your reply thanks for information IE instructions would be great if some time I could get a copy where the parts go see you walked at Boeing I finished working at Qantas nd before that 30 years at H.DHavaland thanks again Terry
Yep!I was at fisherman's bend where Boeing took over from H. DHavaland for nearly 20years a record for me. Not sure what you mean by IE instructions. I can scan all pages or start from where your up to. There are only two sheets of plans these are for masts and rigging.
Have you started a log? If you post some photos of your build there are lots of members who can help you along the way.
I am building my cannons now. What size is that rope and where did you acquire it. I would like to add this detail to my cannon. ThanksPart 1
What's the most important part on a pirate ship? Not the rum unfortunately but the cannons. I started these while waiting for the LEDs to arrive at the beginning of the build.
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The instructions showed the taper on the carriage round the wrong way (wide at the front), I checked fitting the cannon both ways and it fitted better as shown so that's the way I assembled them.
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This is how I glued them, I used drills in the axel slots to line up the sides and the magnets keep them sqare.
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I wanted to make a cap for the trunnions to do this I used some copper wire flattened down to 0.3mm.
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To make consistent parts I used two pieces of quarter inch key steel with two holes drilled in the centre of them. First hole with a pin attached was the same size as the trunnion (2mm) and the other twice the thickness of the cap plus trunnion (2.6mm).
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Two lines have been marked as a guide to place the cap.
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A 2mm pin was used to form the first bend.
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The ends where then pushed down by hand.
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Press the other piece on top of the first one using a clamp this insures nice clean bends.
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This is a bit of overkill but I wanted to experiment with making my own parts.
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Finally I made the parts for the breaching ropes. I am not going to fit the other gun tackle due to the small size and my skill level, maybe next time.
Part 2
Now I'm preparing parts for installation on the ship and need to decide on what finish to put on the cannons. The more I looked at them I think I was wrong to make them back to front so in the end I took them apart and made them right.
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I went with a red stain on the carriage mainly because everything else is walnut and black the guns needed to stand out.
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A mix of black and bronze for the cannons.
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Ready for installation.
Hi Larry I used 0.80mm rope that I had left over from another kit and you will need to make or buy some small eyebolts for the cannons. Just incase you are unaware the cannons tapper is shown around the wrong way in the instructions, should be narrow at the front and wide at the back. How are the lights going?I am building my cannons now. What size is that rope and where did you acquire it. I would like to add this detail to my cannon. Thanks
Larry
That is some outstanding work! Your post has been way better for me than the instructions that came with the ship. Thank you!!!I knew the lanterns where going to be a problem, according to the original ship the outer lanterns are fitted to the rear of the side rails.
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I tried this location but it didn't look right, wrong angle/height. With the castings either side of the centre lantern there is not enough room for the other lanterns. After playing around with the parts I found a way to make them fit just.
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The tops where not molded very well I wasn't really worried about the excess material that could be filed away but I didn't like the fact that they where misshapen on one corner. I sent a email to Max to see if I could get a replacement but he said just file the excess off. I don't think anyone would really notice the out of shape corner.
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In order to make the castings fit all the excess material needed to be removed and shaped to fit on the rear rail.
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The lanterns sit on top of three hexagon pieces glued together these are placed as far apart as possible
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A small amount of metal had to be removed from the castings to clear the base of the outboard lanterns.
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In order to make the LEDs show up more I roughed up the surface of the LEDs with fine wet and dry paper, this spreads the light through the sides of the LEDs.
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After a careful bit of soldering I put a small piece of heat shrink around the base of the LEDs and luckily they all lit up.
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Nearly finished the lantern tops need to be glued and some polyurethane put on the walnut. Now the hard part, complete the rest of the Pearl without breaking the lights.
Good luck with not breaking them. I broke one and my daughter broke another. I only have one that works. I think Rick @Ahoy All has it right to use a separate switch.I knew the lanterns where going to be a problem, according to the original ship the outer lanterns are fitted to the rear of the side rails.
View attachment 227434
I tried this location but it didn't look right, wrong angle/height. With the castings either side of the centre lantern there is not enough room for the other lanterns. After playing around with the parts I found a way to make them fit just.
View attachment 227433View attachment 227436
The tops where not molded very well I wasn't really worried about the excess material that could be filed away but I didn't like the fact that they where misshapen on one corner. I sent a email to Max to see if I could get a replacement but he said just file the excess off. I don't think anyone would really notice the out of shape corner.
View attachment 227484
In order to make the castings fit all the excess material needed to be removed and shaped to fit on the rear rail.
View attachment 227491
The lanterns sit on top of three hexagon pieces glued together these are placed as far apart as possible
View attachment 227493
A small amount of metal had to be removed from the castings to clear the base of the outboard lanterns.
View attachment 227501
In order to make the LEDs show up more I roughed up the surface of the LEDs with fine wet and dry paper, this spreads the light through the sides of the LEDs.
View attachment 227497
After a careful bit of soldering I put a small piece of heat shrink around the base of the LEDs and luckily they all lit up.
View attachment 227498
Nearly finished the lantern tops need to be glued and some polyurethane put on the walnut. Now the hard part, complete the rest of the Pearl without breaking the lights.
f I had it to do over again, I think I would have left it to the very end.The whole time I was reading your post I kept thinking - I hope he doesn't break them later. And then you wrote the same thing! Is there any way to protect them? Pack out the area with something? Build a little cover?