BS in Marine Engineering. It means I can BS my way through a ship model build.
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HMS Sovereign of the Seas - Bashing DeAgostini Beyond Believable Boundaries
- Thread starter DARIVS ARCHITECTVS
- Start date
- Watchers 95
Says the guy who has a better looking hull and home made lines on his model . . .
No way. Dentists scare me... like clowns and blimps do.
For some reason I find the fact that blimps scare you to be marvelously amusingNo way. Dentists scare me... like clowns and blimps do.
. No wings? Sitting under a bag of explosive gases?
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2019
- Messages
- 5,102
- Points
- 738
Welcome to the DeAgostini club you will have fun. one of my german friends has it totally finished with a perfect result. DeAgostini is very popular in Germany
The tiller and whipstaff were completed today.
The slot for the tiller was cut, and and opening prepared to accept the rowle. Recesses fore and aft of the slot were created for the rowle shaft.
A piece of dowel was turned with a battery powered drill. A hobby saw cut slot down to the diameter of the shaft, and a square diamond file was used to shape the rowle wile it spun. A drill makes a good mini-lathe for tiny parts.
The pilot hole was drilled for the whipstaff. Larger drill bits were used in two more steps to bring the hole to the proper diameter.
Test fitting the whipstaff.
Two pieces of 3x3mm cherry wood were used to make the rowle partners, which holds the rowle in place. To make the semicircular cuts for the rowle shaft, both parts were placed opposite each other and one hole drilled, making the cuts even and quick. The pencil marks indicate where the parts will be cut to length.
The rowle partners were cut and shaped to the proper camber.
This button was made as the stopper that will be glued onto the end of the tiller tang to keep the whipstaff from falling off. In order to slip it onto the tang safely and not lose it in the hull, it is CA glued to one side of the tweezers.
The tiller is inserting into the stern.
The tiller is slipped onto the tang of the tiller and held in place with a clamp that is taped to the hull.
Here was the tricky part. Using the tweezers, the stop was inserted and carefully slipped onto the end of the brass tang. CA glue was applied from the end of a thin stick of wood to the end of the tang to cement it in place.
The rowl is slipped over the whipstaff with its shaft resting in the recesses in the deck. Now the rowle partners are glued to the deck with CA, being careful not get any CA glue on the rowle shaft. The rowle is now trapped in place and rotates freely, and the whipstaff can slide easily through its hole. The extreme angle of the tiller and whipstaff is carefully tested, without dropping the whipstaff all the way through the rowle.
Now the tiller needs support from the bottom on its front end. After careful measurements, holes are drilled in the side of the hull. The quadrant is a curved beam that will support the tiller's front end across its entire arc of movement. The position of the holes was verified by sliding a 1.5x1.5mm stick of walnut through the hull using the holes, and the vertical play in the front end of the tiller was examined by moving the whipstaff up and down. The holes in the hull were enlarged to accept the arched quadrant beam, and needed to be adjusted downward as the holes were enlarged. The quadrant was slid into place. A flashlight was directed through the second hole and the end of the quadrant was maneuvered into the hole from the hull interior by looking through the open starboard stern gun port.
Here is the quadrant in position.
The quadrant was secured to the hull on both sides with PVA glue and wedged into place with a stick of walnut. The protruding wood will be cut away and made flush with the hull after the glue dries.
Test operating the whipstaff to extreme port and starboard positions. It works perfectly.
A couple small pieces of wood trim between the rowle partners, and the whipstaff is complete. The length of the whipstaff may be trimmed later. Currently it reaches to the overhead of the deck above. A slot in the deck above will be cut. On three deck ships, this was called the whipstaff passage. The whipstaff helmsman operates the whipstaff from the middle gun deck, even though it can be operated from the upper gun deck for the center portion of the arc of the tiller. Most of the heavy steering for ships of this period was done using the spritsail, sprit topsail, and lateen on the mizzen mast for these early ships, with the rudder only making slight course corrections when sailing a straight course.
Why did I go through all this trouble to make a working steering mechanism no one will see or use? Because it was fun and I will able to take the display glass off the model and play with it. And cutaway ships look ugly to me because they resemble ship wrecks, and are incomplete. The question now is, have I forgotten anything else?
The slot for the tiller was cut, and and opening prepared to accept the rowle. Recesses fore and aft of the slot were created for the rowle shaft.
A piece of dowel was turned with a battery powered drill. A hobby saw cut slot down to the diameter of the shaft, and a square diamond file was used to shape the rowle wile it spun. A drill makes a good mini-lathe for tiny parts.
The pilot hole was drilled for the whipstaff. Larger drill bits were used in two more steps to bring the hole to the proper diameter.
Test fitting the whipstaff.
Two pieces of 3x3mm cherry wood were used to make the rowle partners, which holds the rowle in place. To make the semicircular cuts for the rowle shaft, both parts were placed opposite each other and one hole drilled, making the cuts even and quick. The pencil marks indicate where the parts will be cut to length.
The rowle partners were cut and shaped to the proper camber.
This button was made as the stopper that will be glued onto the end of the tiller tang to keep the whipstaff from falling off. In order to slip it onto the tang safely and not lose it in the hull, it is CA glued to one side of the tweezers.
The tiller is inserting into the stern.
The tiller is slipped onto the tang of the tiller and held in place with a clamp that is taped to the hull.
Here was the tricky part. Using the tweezers, the stop was inserted and carefully slipped onto the end of the brass tang. CA glue was applied from the end of a thin stick of wood to the end of the tang to cement it in place.
The rowl is slipped over the whipstaff with its shaft resting in the recesses in the deck. Now the rowle partners are glued to the deck with CA, being careful not get any CA glue on the rowle shaft. The rowle is now trapped in place and rotates freely, and the whipstaff can slide easily through its hole. The extreme angle of the tiller and whipstaff is carefully tested, without dropping the whipstaff all the way through the rowle.
Now the tiller needs support from the bottom on its front end. After careful measurements, holes are drilled in the side of the hull. The quadrant is a curved beam that will support the tiller's front end across its entire arc of movement. The position of the holes was verified by sliding a 1.5x1.5mm stick of walnut through the hull using the holes, and the vertical play in the front end of the tiller was examined by moving the whipstaff up and down. The holes in the hull were enlarged to accept the arched quadrant beam, and needed to be adjusted downward as the holes were enlarged. The quadrant was slid into place. A flashlight was directed through the second hole and the end of the quadrant was maneuvered into the hole from the hull interior by looking through the open starboard stern gun port.
Here is the quadrant in position.
The quadrant was secured to the hull on both sides with PVA glue and wedged into place with a stick of walnut. The protruding wood will be cut away and made flush with the hull after the glue dries.
Test operating the whipstaff to extreme port and starboard positions. It works perfectly.
A couple small pieces of wood trim between the rowle partners, and the whipstaff is complete. The length of the whipstaff may be trimmed later. Currently it reaches to the overhead of the deck above. A slot in the deck above will be cut. On three deck ships, this was called the whipstaff passage. The whipstaff helmsman operates the whipstaff from the middle gun deck, even though it can be operated from the upper gun deck for the center portion of the arc of the tiller. Most of the heavy steering for ships of this period was done using the spritsail, sprit topsail, and lateen on the mizzen mast for these early ships, with the rudder only making slight course corrections when sailing a straight course.
Why did I go through all this trouble to make a working steering mechanism no one will see or use? Because it was fun and I will able to take the display glass off the model and play with it. And cutaway ships look ugly to me because they resemble ship wrecks, and are incomplete. The question now is, have I forgotten anything else?
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All I can say is it was fascinating and fun not to mention a great learning experience to watch how you achieved this installation.
Laparoscopic surgery on a ship. Amazing.
Where did you get the information on the use of whipstaffs? I just assumed it was done with ropes and pulleys. I suppose the Soleil Royal also uses a whipstaff instead of a wheel?
.. who else had to look that word up ?
Peter Goodwin's book. It has loads of detail on wooden ship construction.
I also recommend:
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- Joined
- Aug 8, 2019
- Messages
- 5,102
- Points
- 738
I'm not. Got experience with that in hospital.
Micro-update. Added the deck detail and wedges and coat for the mizzen mast. Wondering what to do next... maybe the beakhead bulkhead?
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2020
- Messages
- 662
- Points
- 353
I do admire the work going into this build on all these extras, your canons have more work done on them and they will barley be be seen than my current builds canons that will be seen.
I imagine the satisfaction once this ship is completed will be huge knowing there has been plenty of effort in all the hidden details.
Ingenious retrofit Kurt.
I plan on the same feature on Soleil Royal.Yeah you can't use it but we know it is there.
Kind Regards
Nigel
I plan on the same feature on Soleil Royal.Yeah you can't use it but we know it is there.
Kind Regards
Nigel
The fun of moddeling is building it. When it is finished it is just a mantle piece.
So why won t we treat ourselves with building all these tiny details even if you don t see them. Because it is fun to make them. Great work Kurt love the whipstaff.
So why won t we treat ourselves with building all these tiny details even if you don t see them. Because it is fun to make them. Great work Kurt love the whipstaff.
I will see them. I have a borescope!I do admire the work going into this build on all these extras, your canons have more work done on them and they will barley be be seen than my current builds canons that will be seen.
I imagine the satisfaction once this ship is completed will be huge knowing there has been plenty of effort in all the hidden details.
See?
That’s awesome! Looks like you have one of the problems I have. These closeups show the tiniest specks of dust that I never see when looking at the ship with the naked eye.
Yes. Dust reflects bright light of the scope quite a bit. I would like to use ambient light, but the cameras in borescopes are not sensitive enough to create good images in very low light.