Thanks, Dom. That's actually the case with me too, but with clip-on glasses the scale becomes ‘sliding’. And luckily the Byrnes Drawplate has no smaller holes……
Regards, Peter
BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
- Start date
- Watchers 55
Regards, Peter
Started working on the hatches. In addition to the technical drawing shown above, the Amsterdam restoration book also contains some old photos. The hatches are sometimes slightly raised.
They are also slightly raised in the model that Sybe de Jong made prior to the restoration:
I estimate that Sybe's model was built on a scale of 1:25.
First I made a test hatch entirely by hand. Based on that I was able to mill some details:
(Unfortunately not completely sharp with the iPhone.) The test is on the right and version 2.0 on the left. The hatch is 15.75 x 13.5 mm and 1 mm thick. The recessed rounding of 2 ø mm is 0.5 mm deep. The ring is recessed in it:
That can be seen in one of the details on the drawing. The eye of the eye bolt is also slightly recessed.
This is the result:
Made the 1,2 ø mm eye bolt and 2 ø mm ring from 0.4 ø mm iron wire.
Also with dowels for the connection with the clamps on the bottom:
With in the middle the clamp with hole for the lashing of the hatch.
Because you can look into it from the side, I will also secure some hatches with a rope later.
8 more hatches to go .......
Regards, Peter
They are also slightly raised in the model that Sybe de Jong made prior to the restoration:
I estimate that Sybe's model was built on a scale of 1:25.
First I made a test hatch entirely by hand. Based on that I was able to mill some details:
(Unfortunately not completely sharp with the iPhone.) The test is on the right and version 2.0 on the left. The hatch is 15.75 x 13.5 mm and 1 mm thick. The recessed rounding of 2 ø mm is 0.5 mm deep. The ring is recessed in it:
That can be seen in one of the details on the drawing. The eye of the eye bolt is also slightly recessed.
This is the result:
Made the 1,2 ø mm eye bolt and 2 ø mm ring from 0.4 ø mm iron wire.
Also with dowels for the connection with the clamps on the bottom:
With in the middle the clamp with hole for the lashing of the hatch.
Because you can look into it from the side, I will also secure some hatches with a rope later.
8 more hatches to go .......
Regards, Peter
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It‘s always a pleasure to follow your log, Peter. I hope I will see the model in reality soon.
Good afternoon Peter. I should be used to you building details that small but I’m still amazed at what you do. Kudos. It’s not the fact you add these tiny details it’s the accuracy of the details within the details which impresses. Legendary.
Remind me not to buy those clip on glasses….Thanks, Dom. That's actually the case with me too, but with clip-on glasses the scale becomes ‘sliding’. And luckily the Byrnes Drawplate has no smaller holes……
Regards, Peter
Cheers Grant
Thanks, Christian. Let’s see how for it is when we meet each other.
Regards, Peter
Thanks, Grant. The detailed drawing are part of the problem of adding details or not.Good afternoon Peter. I should be used to you building details that small but I’m still amazed at what you do. Kudos. It’s not the fact you add these tiny details it’s the accuracy of the details within the details which impresses. Legendary.
Remind me not to buy those clip on glasses….
Cheers Grant
What you can’t see on those drawings you don’t have to make. 
But that’s also the advantage of scratch building.Then it’s just a matter of ‘to clip or not to clip’.
Regards, Peter
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Keen attention to the details, Peter. Bravo!
No more cuttings, Johan. As show here it will be placed on the port side:
On starboard just the stringer plates.
Regards, Peter
Thanks, Paul.
Regards, Peter
Making the hatches in several steps:
-sanded, milled and drilled;
-doweled and ironwork made;
-top side completed;
-bottom with clamps and lashing rope.
As it should be on the deck:
The hatches have had one layer of linseed oil. Then the dowels also come out a bit more.
The frame has no oil yet. I have to glue deck planks to the sides later.
From the inside:
I can attach the lashing ropes to the beams later. Then I can't lose them either .....
How did they do that in real life? Once lashed, how do you get out of the hold? That is worth asking some old fishermen .........
Regards, Peter
-sanded, milled and drilled;
-doweled and ironwork made;
-top side completed;
-bottom with clamps and lashing rope.
As it should be on the deck:
The hatches have had one layer of linseed oil. Then the dowels also come out a bit more.
The frame has no oil yet. I have to glue deck planks to the sides later.
From the inside:
I can attach the lashing ropes to the beams later. Then I can't lose them either .....
How did they do that in real life? Once lashed, how do you get out of the hold? That is worth asking some old fishermen .........
Regards, Peter
Last edited:
Fantastic presentation, Peter. I love the recessed rings!
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Ah, now I see. I was pre-wired to see the hatches on the centerline of the ship, instead of having two sets of hatches, left and right of midship.
Thanks, Paul.
I had a bit of a reverse order of making. First the size of the recess and then the rings made to fit in there.
'Little buggers', put the rings through the eye bolt and then squeeze them shut. Almost impossible to hold.
Regards, Peter
Yep, on both halves 9 barrel holds. Each with it’s own hatch.
Regards, Peter
First of all, Happy (way) belated Birthday Peter! Your work is still unparalleled. Tree type nails as plugs looks the best to me too. You know to me the black caulking on the deck boards of the real ship looks fantastic I think because of the sun weathered grayed deck boards. It must make the contrast look more natural than when compared to the Bluenose II's more modern planking with black on cherry brown wood.
Thanks, Daniel. Always time for a after party.
A polished deck like the BN or a weathered deck like the Balder make a big difference in appearance in combination with the black caulking. I make the deck from the same wood as the hatches. The intended gray for the caulking will then be a nice intermediate solution.
The first strokes will be placed as a second and more definite test.
Regards, Peter