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Modelship Dockyard - New Kit [Modelship Dockyard] PoF H.M.S. Enterprize 1774, the 1/48 version!

richardjjs said:
yes my blandford had a couple not aligned exactly

Just looking at Hanging Knees
L1d Looks like the LOdging Knees D6 C6
L1e Looks like the Hanging knees E3

ABOVE FOR LOWER DECK

Ld2 Looks like the Lodging Knees for GUNDECK D5
I then have =E4 which has numbers not and Ld numberv
Is this for GunDEck

WHAT SIZE ARE CARLINGS on these DEcks Please
THESE JUST ASKING not reall looked
ive then got another E4
Which has an A & B
Are these Quarter DEck
And what is E5 & E3

THanks
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JUST SEEN F3 has Carlings for GUN DDECK and 16 Hanging Knees presume they are for same DECK ?
 
richardjjs said:
Interestingly ALLEN says he would recommend cutting the slots as you FIT them
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An alternative that I have used with success is place all the beams exactly where they will go when glued in, then using a template or rule or whatever, mark out the slots for the carlings. It can be easier to make the cuts off the model depending on the tool. I use a slit saw and chisel but whatever you prefer is the way to go. In The Fully Framed Model Volume 1, David Antscherl shows a method that I now use most of the time. Instead of cutting the beam so there is a shelf, just cut an angled slot. This is really easy to do with the beams in place or off the model and easier to size and then set the carling .
Allan

1761992091462.jpeg
 
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AllanKP69 said:
An alternative that I have used with success is place all the beams exactly where they will go when glued in, then using a template or rule or whatever, mark out the slots for the carlings. It can be easier to make the cuts off the model depending on the tool. I use a slit saw and chisel but whatever you prefer is the way to go. In The Fully Framed Model Volume 1, David Antscherl shows a method that I now use most of the time. Instead of cutting the beam so there is a shelf, just cut an angled slot. This is really easy to do with the beams in place or off the model and easier to szie and then set the carling .
Allan

View attachment 553890
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I've also seen this method in Phillip Reed's book 'Building a Miniature Navy Board Model'. It's a method that scales well.
 
AllanKP69 said:
Getting the notches cut in the exact right place before the beams are installed is difficult regarding alignment if the beams are not perfectly placed. Many find it better to install the beams, then mark out the notches for the carlings and cut or file a notch so they are properly aligned. Just another way to achieve a perfect result. It is not such a big deal for a cross section model as there are not that many beams and it is pretty much straight line midships, but for a full hull, it can be tricky to have everything lined up.
Allan
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Absolutely. Since I am about 1/2 way through lower deck I can assure you several beams are adjusted to fit, especially the fore and aft beams.
Below I am fitting all then marking/filing notches at angle for carlings. Gun deck, I will fully notch to correctly fit carlings AFTER beams are trimmed , dry fit.

Tim
 
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AllanKP69 said:
An alternative that I have used with success is place all the beams exactly where they will go when glued in, then using a template or rule or whatever, mark out the slots for the carlings. It can be easier to make the cuts off the model depending on the tool. I use a slit saw and chisel but whatever you prefer is the way to go. In The Fully Framed Model Volume 1, David Antscherl shows a method that I now use most of the time. Instead of cutting the beam so there is a shelf, just cut an angled slot. This is really easy to do with the beams in place or off the model and easier to szie and then set the carling .
Allan

View attachment 553890
Click to expand...
Actually I have an angled rifler with thin sides than makes fast work for this approach, a bit thin but easy to properly widen with a #11 blade.

Tim
 
AllanKP69 said:
An alternative that I have used with success is place all the beams exactly where they will go when glued in, then using a template or rule or whatever, mark out the slots for the carlings. It can be easier to make the cuts off the model depending on the tool. I use a slit saw and chisel but whatever you prefer is the way to go. In The Fully Framed Model Volume 1, David Antscherl shows a method that I now use most of the time. Instead of cutting the beam so there is a shelf, just cut an angled slot. This is really easy to do with the beams in place or off the model and easier to size and then set the carling .
Allan

View attachment 553890
Click to expand...
REALLY LEARNING THANKS
So far my slots run to the bottom of the beam But this will look better and easier

I see that ALBAN when building the frames has a set of frames around the gun port and cuts it to size as he goes along
So he cuts say16 b 17 a and b and 18 a
These he cuts to size and then works fore of aft gluing them in assembling and cutting in sets
This would stop the difficult work of cutting them on the frame
MODYFIED TO MAKE SENSE
 
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HAWSE PIECES HAVE ARRIVED
Thanks Victor
Finishing off inner planking
Ill build the hawse and no 1 on inner planking
 
VICTOR
Hawse pieces have arrived THANKS
May i suggest on you next model you mark the pieces to cut away with Crosses
My first attempt ruined a piece so needed th replacement - al going ok now
Needs tidying up 7 to add
I notice that X8 is shorter - hopefull this is correct

20251108_121649.jpg

20251108_121655.jpg

20251108_121716.jpg
 
still very frustrated by the TERRIBLE instructions - or lack off
What is needed is more illustrations
Ive cocked up the Hawse AGAIN
THe outer part is fine but there are marking on the inside that suggest that these are left in but because we only get a outer picture its not obvious what happend and how the inner works
Ive trimmed mine of all together and t fits better ~~ the underside of this
1763198659244.png

Also the inner planking
The jig is brilliant but we need some sort of jig to mark where the fore end goes on the bow

1763198611077.png
here at the bow where the it meets the stem
 
richardjjs said:
still very frustrated by the TERRIBLE instructions - or lack off
What is needed is more illustrations
Ive cocked up the Hawse AGAIN
THe outer part is fine but there are marking on the inside that suggest that these are left in but because we only get a outer picture its not obvious what happend and how the inner works
Ive trimmed mine of all together and t fits better ~~ the underside of this
View attachment 557035

Also the inner planking
The jig is brilliant but we need some sort of jig to mark where the fore end goes on the bow

View attachment 557034
here at the bow where the it meets the stem
Click to expand...
Richard, FWIW this is not that hard, you need to visualize the parts and where they will be when finalized, the jig makes it pretty hard to screw up.
The taper lines are just like any other....frames, etc.
The only somewhat tricky part is properly locating the actual cant frame, the end of which locates in the jig hole. It sits proud of hawse as to locate onto frame step, gotta realize, that hole must be there for a reason.
Don't taper exactly to lines so you can finish taper after you pull everything from the jig.
If you've screwed it up it will be far easier to source a piece of wood and fab new ones using the parts frames as templates as opposed to waiting for delivery from China, Your's to take or ignore but the bollards and jig are rather intuitive to build, likely why zero exact direction.

Tim
 
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