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Modelship Dockyard - New Kit [Modelship Dockyard] PoF H.M.S. Enterprize 1774, the 1/48 version!

yes my blandford had a couple not aligned exactly

Just looking at Hanging Knees
L1d Looks like the LOdging Knees D6 C6
L1e Looks like the Hanging knees E3

ABOVE FOR LOWER DECK

Ld2 Looks like the Lodging Knees for GUNDECK D5
I then have =E4 which has numbers not and Ld numberv
Is this for GunDEck

WHAT SIZE ARE CARLINGS on these DEcks Please
THESE JUST ASKING not reall looked
ive then got another E4
Which has an A & B
Are these Quarter DEck
And what is E5 & E3

THanks
JUST SEEN F3 has Carlings for GUN DDECK and 16 Hanging Knees presume they are for same DECK ?
 
Interestingly ALLEN says he would recommend cutting the slots as you FIT them
An alternative that I have used with success is place all the beams exactly where they will go when glued in, then using a template or rule or whatever, mark out the slots for the carlings. It can be easier to make the cuts off the model depending on the tool. I use a slit saw and chisel but whatever you prefer is the way to go. In The Fully Framed Model Volume 1, David Antscherl shows a method that I now use most of the time. Instead of cutting the beam so there is a shelf, just cut an angled slot. This is really easy to do with the beams in place or off the model and easier to size and then set the carling .
Allan

1761992091462.jpeg
 
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An alternative that I have used with success is place all the beams exactly where they will go when glued in, then using a template or rule or whatever, mark out the slots for the carlings. It can be easier to make the cuts off the model depending on the tool. I use a slit saw and chisel but whatever you prefer is the way to go. In The Fully Framed Model Volume 1, David Antscherl shows a method that I now use most of the time. Instead of cutting the beam so there is a shelf, just cut an angled slot. This is really easy to do with the beams in place or off the model and easier to szie and then set the carling .
Allan

View attachment 553890


I've also seen this method in Phillip Reed's book 'Building a Miniature Navy Board Model'. It's a method that scales well.
 
Getting the notches cut in the exact right place before the beams are installed is difficult regarding alignment if the beams are not perfectly placed. Many find it better to install the beams, then mark out the notches for the carlings and cut or file a notch so they are properly aligned. Just another way to achieve a perfect result. It is not such a big deal for a cross section model as there are not that many beams and it is pretty much straight line midships, but for a full hull, it can be tricky to have everything lined up.
Allan
Absolutely. Since I am about 1/2 way through lower deck I can assure you several beams are adjusted to fit, especially the fore and aft beams.
Below I am fitting all then marking/filing notches at angle for carlings. Gun deck, I will fully notch to correctly fit carlings AFTER beams are trimmed , dry fit.

Tim
 
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An alternative that I have used with success is place all the beams exactly where they will go when glued in, then using a template or rule or whatever, mark out the slots for the carlings. It can be easier to make the cuts off the model depending on the tool. I use a slit saw and chisel but whatever you prefer is the way to go. In The Fully Framed Model Volume 1, David Antscherl shows a method that I now use most of the time. Instead of cutting the beam so there is a shelf, just cut an angled slot. This is really easy to do with the beams in place or off the model and easier to szie and then set the carling .
Allan

View attachment 553890
Actually I have an angled rifler with thin sides than makes fast work for this approach, a bit thin but easy to properly widen with a #11 blade.

Tim
 
An alternative that I have used with success is place all the beams exactly where they will go when glued in, then using a template or rule or whatever, mark out the slots for the carlings. It can be easier to make the cuts off the model depending on the tool. I use a slit saw and chisel but whatever you prefer is the way to go. In The Fully Framed Model Volume 1, David Antscherl shows a method that I now use most of the time. Instead of cutting the beam so there is a shelf, just cut an angled slot. This is really easy to do with the beams in place or off the model and easier to size and then set the carling .
Allan

View attachment 553890
REALLY LEARNING THANKS
So far my slots run to the bottom of the beam But this will look better and easier

I see that ALBAN when building the frames has a set of frames around the gun port and cuts it to size as he goes along
So he cuts say16 b 17 a and b and 18 a
These he cuts to size and then works fore of aft gluing them in assembling and cutting in sets
This would stop the difficult work of cutting them on the frame
MODYFIED TO MAKE SENSE
 
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