HMS Victory - Caldercraft 1/72 build log by Andi

[Gilbertm]

View attachment 638255View attachment 638256View attachment 638257View attachment 638258View attachment 638259View attachment 638260View attachment 638261View attachment 638262View attachment 638263View attachment 638264View attachment 638265

excellent progress Andy
Congratulations .

 

[Andi]

excellent progress Andy
Congratulations .

Hi Gilbert

Thanks for taking the time to look at my build log and to assess my progress. As you no doubt know it means a lot to get some encouragement from someone who is more experienced than yourself.
Regards

Andi

 

[Andi]

Have now finished adding the rest of the cannons

 

[Andi]

Have also added the waste balusters and the waste ladders

 

[TexBilly]

Excellent work, Andi - and so fast!

 

[Andi]

Excellent work, Andi - and so fast!

Hi TexBilly

Thanks for looking at my build log and for your encouraging comment

 

[Andi]

The quarter deck mezzanine mast sleeve has been glued in place and a spirit level used to ensure the mast is vertical port to starboard

The ships wheel and the binnacle have been assembled and fitted





Note the Groove cut in the forward and aft faces of the binnacle to accommodate the glazing material


The brass bits for the binnacle have first been cleaned with acetone and then sprayed with white primer to hopefully make painting a little easier



The Cats tails have also been added behind the beak head bulkhead and the beak head capping assembly has been completed. Brass profile no 2 has been cut to size, painted yellow, and attached to the beak head bulkhead, tight up against the overhang of the beak head bulkhead plank sheer

As can be seen from the above photo I have just started work on the Roundhouses which I hope to finish tomorrow along with planking the deck in front of the beak head bulkhead

 

[Andi]

I have now completed the planking of the roundhouses, the beakhead pilasters have been painted and fitted ( I did not need to remove any material from the base of each pilaster), the beakhead doors and gunports have been painted and fitted, the forecastle shot garlands have been painted and fitted and the forecastle carronades have been assembled, rigged and fitted










Will start on the Bows tomorrow.

 

[Andi]

The Bows - a lot harder than I thought it was going to be, but I think I have got somewhere near in the end.

Firstly the upper and lower bow curved rails and the hair bracket and lower boat cheek rails were painted (top and outside edge painted yellow and the undersides painted black. They were then fitted to the ship


Initially the hair brackets (120) and the lower bow cheek rails (123) did not fit snuggly around the hull so I used some lead solder wire to form the outer profile of the hull and then transferred the shape onto the relevant parts and using a mini electric sanding band, the required curve was achieved.




The hawse hole bolsters were then painted and fitted 13.5 mm from the stem as per the instructions and the 6mm hawse holes were drilled out.

 

[Andi]

The four head timbers were next which was slightly puzzling as there was no instructions as how to fit the largest of the these ( 107). The only way to get it through the required slot was to cut a piece off one side, insert the head timber and super glue the piece back on which is what I did.



The hardest part for me was the next part which was fitting the rails using the 2mm x 2mm flexible beach. No matter how I tried I could not get the rails to lie flush against the outer face of the four head timbers. After a few hours of total frustration I decided that the only way to achieve this was to cut slots in the rails that corresponded to the slots in the head timbers. The slots in the head timbers also had to be modified, and I broke two of the head timbers trying to do this. I managed to repair these broken head timbers by reinforcing them on the backside with pieces of 1mm x 3mm walnut. It was a good job that the 2mm x 2mm beach was flexible as it needed to be when pressing the rails into the head timbers with pliers. The result is below and was the best I could do. Doing it this way allowed me to line the outer edge of the four head timbers with the 0.5mm x 2mm walnut which had to be painted blue.

 

[Andi]

The photo below shows the way the rails were cut to allow them to sit flush with the outer face of the head timbers

 

[DocTom]

The Bows - a lot harder than I thought it was going to be, but I think I have got somewhere near in the end.

Firstly the upper and lower bow curved rails and the hair bracket and lower boat cheek rails were painted (top and outside edge painted yellow and the undersides painted black. They were then fitted to the shipView attachment 642317
View attachment 642318

Initially the hair brackets (120) and the lower bow cheek rails (123) did not fit snuggly around the hull so I used some lead solder wire to form the outer profile of the hull and then transferred the shape onto the relevant parts and using a mini electric sanding band, the required curve was achieved.

View attachment 642322
View attachment 642323View attachment 642324

The hawse hole bolsters were then painted and fitted 13.5 mm from the stem as per the instructions and the 6mm hawse holes were drilled out.

Great idea to use the solder wire to shape the curve. I'll have to remember that!

 

[Gilbertm]

The four head timbers were next which was slightly puzzling as there was no instructions as how to fit the largest of the these ( 107). The only way to get it through the required slot was to cut a piece off one side, insert the head timber and super glue the piece back on which is what I did.


View attachment 642328
The hardest part for me was the next part which was fitting the rails using the 2mm x 2mm flexible beach. No matter how I tried I could not get the rails to lie flush against the outer face of the four head timbers. After a few hours of total frustration I decided that the only way to achieve this was to cut slots in the rails that corresponded to the slots in the head timbers. The slots in the head timbers also had to be modified, and I broke two of the head timbers trying to do this. I managed to repair these broken head timbers by reinforcing them on the backside with pieces of 1mm x 3mm walnut. It was a good job that the 2mm x 2mm beach was flexible as it needed to be when pressing the rails into the head timbers with pliers. The result is below and was the best I could do. Doing it this way allowed me to line the outer edge of the four head timbers with the 0.5mm x 2mm walnut which had to be painted blue.

View attachment 642330View attachment 642332View attachment 642333

View attachment 642331

Very well done Andi
I did struggle a lot when doing this part and also broke some head timbers.
You did a great job here

 

[AllanKP69]

the photo below shows the way the rails were cut to allow them to sit flush with the outer face of the head timbers

Why are there notches? It seems like a lot of unnecessary work as the head timbers were notched, never the rails. The below is from Volume 2 of The Fully Framed Model, page 225 by David Antscherl. Note that the head timbers get covering boards once the rails are in place and before painting.
Allan
Allan

 

[Simon78]

Hi Andi, just caught up with your build log. Your work so far looks fantastic, if I can come any where near close to rhis sta dard with my build I'll be very happy.
Keep up the great work and I'll be following