excellent progress Andy
Congratulations .
![]() |
The beloved Ships in Scale Magazine is back and charting a new course for 2026! Discover new skills, new techniques, and new inspirations in every issue. NOTE THAT OUR NEXT ISSUE WILL BE July/August 2026 |
![]() |
![]() |
As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering. |
![]() |
excellent progress Andy

Hi Gilbertexcellent progress Andy
Congratulations .

Hi TexBillyExcellent work, Andi - and so fast!![]()
![]()





























Great idea to use the solder wire to shape the curve. I'll have to remember that!The Bows - a lot harder than I thought it was going to be, but I think I have got somewhere near in the end.
Firstly the upper and lower bow curved rails and the hair bracket and lower boat cheek rails were painted (top and outside edge painted yellow and the undersides painted black. They were then fitted to the shipView attachment 642317
View attachment 642318
Initially the hair brackets (120) and the lower bow cheek rails (123) did not fit snuggly around the hull so I used some lead solder wire to form the outer profile of the hull and then transferred the shape onto the relevant parts and using a mini electric sanding band, the required curve was achieved.
View attachment 642322
View attachment 642323View attachment 642324
The hawse hole bolsters were then painted and fitted 13.5 mm from the stem as per the instructions and the 6mm hawse holes were drilled out.
Very well done AndiThe four head timbers were next which was slightly puzzling as there was no instructions as how to fit the largest of the these ( 107). The only way to get it through the required slot was to cut a piece off one side, insert the head timber and super glue the piece back on which is what I did.
View attachment 642328
The hardest part for me was the next part which was fitting the rails using the 2mm x 2mm flexible beach. No matter how I tried I could not get the rails to lie flush against the outer face of the four head timbers. After a few hours of total frustration I decided that the only way to achieve this was to cut slots in the rails that corresponded to the slots in the head timbers. The slots in the head timbers also had to be modified, and I broke two of the head timbers trying to do this. I managed to repair these broken head timbers by reinforcing them on the backside with pieces of 1mm x 3mm walnut. It was a good job that the 2mm x 2mm beach was flexible as it needed to be when pressing the rails into the head timbers with pliers. The result is below and was the best I could do. Doing it this way allowed me to line the outer edge of the four head timbers with the 0.5mm x 2mm walnut which had to be painted blue.
View attachment 642330View attachment 642332View attachment 642333
View attachment 642331
Why are there notches? It seems like a lot of unnecessary work as the head timbers were notched, never the rails. The below is from Volume 2 of The Fully Framed Model, page 225 by David Antscherl. Note that the head timbers get covering boards once the rails are in place and before painting.the photo below shows the way the rails were cut to allow them to sit flush with the outer face of the head timbers


Hi Allan, thanks for your comments, as shown in the drawing you attached the covering boards (0.5 x 2mm walnut) fit flush up to the head timber outside edges. I could not achieve this without cutting notches in the rails so they too would not protrude and hinder the flush fitting of the covering boards. if this wasn’t necessary then perhaps I have got something out of line somewhere but I was very careful to ensure the head timbers were parallel and upright when I fitted them. I also increased the depth and bevelled the notches in all the head timbers in order to have to avoid notching the rails, but alas it didn’t seem to work. Yes, it was a lot of extra work but I think the end result doesn’t look too badWhy are there notches? It seems like a lot of unnecessary work as the head timbers were notched, never the rails. The below is from Volume 2 of The Fully Framed Model, page 225 by David Antscherl. Note that the head timbers get covering boards once the rails are in place and before painting.
Allan
View attachment 642492

DocTomGreat idea to use the solder wire to shape the curve. I'll have to remember that!

Thanks for that Gilbert, as I said to Allen in reply to his post, I was sure that I had the alignment correct of the head timbers, both vertically and horizontally but just couldn’t get the rails to sit flush with the head timbers. A very frustrating part of the buildVery well done Andi
I did struggle a lot when doing this part and also broke some head timbers.
You did a great job here







