Good morning Peter. It is beyond me how you got those curved inner planks so good within such a confined space......skills my friend. Cheers Grant
BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
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Thanks, Grant. First I thought you meant the curves on the side of the wall. But I suppose you mean the lengthwise outside wall planks.
Just plank by plank with a lot of fitting and sanding and one by one gluing.
For the wall it self:
Also plank bij plank, starting with the 1st in the lower corner. When the curve is correct than the 2nd, 3th and 4th.
Regards, Peter
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This looks exactly what we’ve come to expect; marvelous.
True story
Thanks, Johan and Grant. Expectations (and habit) are a bit of a pitfall.
In the meantime I know quite well where the boundaries are. But as I wrote: plans are meant to be changed. So, boundaries are there to be crossed, principles are there to be deviated from.
One 'module' further: the 2 transverse bunks:
Everything dry-fit, so not yet completely tight. Some small brackets on the wall and floor to help with alignment.
On the inside slats are the two floors of these cages.
With the closing wall on the end side:
An little angled seam at the bottom. That goes away when I press on the wall and remove the slight bulge in the watertight bulkhead.
At the front the 2 'opgeklampte' sliding doors.
Of course they can be opened:
No protruding parts. So no buttons but finger holes.
Seen diagonally from above:
With the height of the walls, always kept an eye on the sheer of the deck. That the walls do not push them up.
The 3 arrows point to the sloping wall for the other 4 bunks with their dividing wall.
Regards, Peter
Everything dry-fit, so not yet completely tight. Some small brackets on the wall and floor to help with alignment.
On the inside slats are the two floors of these cages.
With the closing wall on the end side:
An little angled seam at the bottom. That goes away when I press on the wall and remove the slight bulge in the watertight bulkhead.
At the front the 2 'opgeklampte' sliding doors.
Of course they can be opened:
No protruding parts. So no buttons but finger holes.
Seen diagonally from above:
With the height of the walls, always kept an eye on the sheer of the deck. That the walls do not push them up.
The 3 arrows point to the sloping wall for the other 4 bunks with their dividing wall.
Regards, Peter
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Of course, he said. Pretty big thing in this scale.
So delicate! Amazing modeling Peter!
Haha, living up to expectations...Of course, he said. Pretty big thing in this scale.
Thanks, Paul. The plan worked out again.
Regards, Peter
Obviously, mon ami you have no limits in your modeling! The systematic approach pays dividends! Aploud-Loud!
Thanks for your friendly words and compliments, Ami Jim.
For sure there are limits. But I try to hide them ……… Regards, Peter
Thanks for your very kind words and comments, Johan. Flexibility for sure, by the materials and plans.A very convincing representation of how the Balder’s interior may have looked. Taking into account the properties of the materials you’re using, very flexible, this is quite an achievement.
Regards, Peter
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Thanks for that BIG ONE, Shota. Appreciated!
Regards, Peter
Making the 4 bunks placed diagonally forward was quite a challenge. I will take you through some steps in the production process.
The bottom of the lower 2 bunks on a frame:
Made in such a way that it can slide around the partition wall that has also been made.
On top of that the supports for the floor of the top 2 bunks:
Also with the floors and it can be slid between the walls again. I need the floors to slide up the shutters.
The wall had to be treated with the necessary care:
It consists of 26 slats of 3.0 x 0.7 mm. With 4 recesses for the profiles of the deck beams. Once the wall has been finally installed, it will be neatly finished at the top. Together with covering the metal deck profiles with wood.
Placing the wall also receives the necessary attention. It must be inserted at an angle and then tilted with the 4 recesses along the 4 deck profiles.
That's why I'll have to install everything in reverse order later. Because if the 2 transverse cages are already there, I will never be able to tilt this wall in.
With a lot of trial and error, this worked:
Then drew the 4 recesses at the back for the openings for the 4 shutters.
After making the shutters, place the necessary slats at the back so that the shutters can slide:
I can get that back in place too.
With the dry-fit test installation of all parts:
Yes: once again theory and practice come together. It is standing!
Now take everything apart again, clean it thoroughly, put it partly in linseed oil and then finally glue it into place.
Regards, Peter
The bottom of the lower 2 bunks on a frame:
Made in such a way that it can slide around the partition wall that has also been made.
On top of that the supports for the floor of the top 2 bunks:
Also with the floors and it can be slid between the walls again. I need the floors to slide up the shutters.
The wall had to be treated with the necessary care:
It consists of 26 slats of 3.0 x 0.7 mm. With 4 recesses for the profiles of the deck beams. Once the wall has been finally installed, it will be neatly finished at the top. Together with covering the metal deck profiles with wood.
Placing the wall also receives the necessary attention. It must be inserted at an angle and then tilted with the 4 recesses along the 4 deck profiles.
That's why I'll have to install everything in reverse order later. Because if the 2 transverse cages are already there, I will never be able to tilt this wall in.
With a lot of trial and error, this worked:
Then drew the 4 recesses at the back for the openings for the 4 shutters.
After making the shutters, place the necessary slats at the back so that the shutters can slide:
I can get that back in place too.
With the dry-fit test installation of all parts:
Yes: once again theory and practice come together. It is standing!
Now take everything apart again, clean it thoroughly, put it partly in linseed oil and then finally glue it into place.
Regards, Peter
I've always wondered what it would be like to sleep in a chicken coop...
Then you have to look to the forecastle of the Bluenose ………
Then this is * * * *. With privacy shutters.
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My next jar of pickled herring will hold special meaning!Making the 4 bunks placed diagonally forward was quite a challenge. I will take you through some steps in the production process.
The bottom of the lower 2 bunks on a frame:
View attachment 457154
Made in such a way that it can slide around the partition wall that has also been made.
On top of that the supports for the floor of the top 2 bunks:
View attachment 457155
Also with the floors and it can be slid between the walls again. I need the floors to slide up the shutters.
The wall had to be treated with the necessary care:
View attachment 457156
It consists of 26 slats of 3.0 x 0.7 mm. With 4 recesses for the profiles of the deck beams. Once the wall has been finally installed, it will be neatly finished at the top. Together with covering the metal deck profiles with wood.
Placing the wall also receives the necessary attention. It must be inserted at an angle and then tilted with the 4 recesses along the 4 deck profiles.
That's why I'll have to install everything in reverse order later. Because if the 2 transverse cages are already there, I will never be able to tilt this wall in.
With a lot of trial and error, this worked:
View attachment 457157
Then drew the 4 recesses at the back for the openings for the 4 shutters.
After making the shutters, place the necessary slats at the back so that the shutters can slide:
View attachment 457158
I can get that back in place too.
With the dry-fit test installation of all parts:
View attachment 457159
Yes: once again theory and practice come together. It is standing!
Now take everything apart again, clean it thoroughly, put it partly in linseed oil and then finally glue it into place.
Regards, Peter
