BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame

RDN1954 said:
I also found that any scratch build can present a challenge, at least to me; there's no treaden path.
(This doesn't imply that building a model from a kit is a walk in the park.)
Having said that, modelers like Peter and Maarten, to name just two, are definitely redefining the borders of modeling.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that, Johan. But the scratch build of your Kolibri is almost the same. A lot of research and studies of old not very well documented drawing. And what I saw this week at your visit is also redefining the borders.
Regards, Peter
 
I want to combine the application of the cement in the triangle between the keel beam and the keelson with the application of at least the 1st row of hull plates. The row that is connected to the keel beam.
But to make that I need to have the plan ready for all hull plates.
From the keel to the corner profile on the side of the deck there are 6 row of plates. On top of that comes the 7th for the bulwark.

I had already made a 1st design, but that was more freehand:
0353 Huid.jpg
At that time I had already recognized that I had to work out the progression over the entire length.
I have now worked that out in a more arithmetic and geometrical way.

Unlike a wooden model where you can wet the hull planks and bend them into the shape of the hull and sheer, I have to cut the plates from a flat piece of Evergreen. And then start deforming them into all the curves.
Therefor I have to project all the curves of the hull in a flat plane.
For those who don't like ‘theoretical nonsense’, skip the text and perhaps the photos will make something clear.

The height of the 6 rows is not the same. I measured these using the old drawing of the main frame. I printed the frame on A3 and measured them separately:
0489 Ref-maten.jpg
Always to the top of the next row. I will add the overlaps later when I make the plates. Now it is time to set out the lines of the 6 rows.
As can be seen in the enlarged insert, row A protrudes a bit above the outer corner profile of the waterway. The plate of the bulwark comes against it on the inside and is butted on the corner profile.

I converted the values found into percentage values in an Excel spreadsheet with some formulas:
0490 Excel-1.jpg
-In yellow the individual dimensions of the rows.
-In green the values row by row added together.
-In blue the percentage length in relation to the total length.
-In grey the check whether the total is correct.
The bottom row F is smaller but bends over on the keel.
The projected length from keel to top of deck angle profile is 285 mm.
The reason for this calculations will hopefully become clear in a moment.

On the model I measured the projected length of the largest frame with a strip of mm paper. That was on frame 27:
0491 27.jpg
That is 10.65 cm to the top of the angle profile. Add 1.5 mm for what protrudes above. That is a total of 10.80 cm.

I entered this value in my spreadsheet where I can calculate the height of my rows based on the individual percentage blue values:
0492 Excel-2.jpg
-In yellow the individual dimensions of the rows.
-In green the values row by row added together.
Which is very easy for the next step.

Under my ruler of mm paper I have placed a blank strip:
0493 MM.jpg
And on it I have marked the relevant values of all rows.
Started with F on the right side and worked to the left. Then the separately added values are much easier.
Up to 2 digits is in principle exaggerated. But now I know whether the line should be at the top or bottom of the mm box. 1 digit is just too coarse and you have to mark everything on the line.

With this spreadsheet I can now calculate and draw all the desired strips for different frames.
Here I have placed several and on the lines I can now check the progression with thin Evergreen:
0494 Uitlijnen.jpg
More from below:
0495 Uitlijnen.jpg
Now it's a matter of working through to the complex back side, removing some small irregularities and placing marking lines on the other frames. And using those lines to make the templates for the row of plates.
Regards, Peter
 
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Hi Peter,

Interesting stuff. I guess the sheet heights at the different frame positions will vary? Do you know if the riveting lines of the hull sheeting follows waterlines or maybe the sheer?
 
Maarten said:
Hi Peter,
Interesting stuff. I guess the sheet heights at the different frame positions will vary? Do you know if the riveting lines of the hull sheeting follows waterlines or maybe the sheer?
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Hi Maarten. Indeed interesting stuff. Your questions come at the right time because I was just working it out further towards the aft.

From the front to near the stern at the passage for the rudder stock, they run from the top side equal to the sheer and flatten out to parallel to the keel.
2 pictures for clarification:
The previously placed hull plan that I received via the foundation. The shape of the rows are projected in a flat plane.
0496 Huidplan.jpg
I made the bulwark plate(s) light blue. From the front (right) you can see the progression. At the top along the deck with the sheer to the flat keel.
At the back it follows a pattern upwards. I will clarify that in de next paragraph.
On the left I have added letters of the rows that correspond with those on the photos from my previous post. On the right of the drawings there are also dimensions written. Only the letters A to F are reversed. I will come back to that later.

Here is a compilation of 3 pictures:
0497 Huidplan.jpg
On the main picture the progression at the back of the rows A/B/C towards the deck.
Also partly visible on the insert on the left and the progression of D/E/F.
That makes it a bit easier for me because then I don't have to deform the plates as much in 3 planes.
On the insert on the right you see the lines following the sheer. With a little overlap of the plates to the keel. The bottom plates have also a overlap to the keel beam.
PS: I have now also decided to remake the rudder for my Balder. That is also different in shape than on the 'General plan'.

I can also adjust the already projected lines on my model a bit. I entered the measurements written on the hull plan in my spreadsheet:
0498 Excel-3.jpg
Then the measurements are slightly different in percentage terms.
The lines of the Balder are therefore slightly different than my first starting point of the 'General plan for a steel herring logger'.
Regards, Peter
 
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That flat pattern you already shared a while ago starts to make a lot more sense than it did back then.
If all went well, you should be able to generate your own flat pattern from your strips, which in turn should be a lot like the one you already have...
 
RDN1954 said:
That flat pattern you already shared a while ago starts to make a lot more sense than it did back then.
If all went well, you should be able to generate your own flat pattern from your strips, which in turn should be a lot like the one you already have...
Click to expand...
Then my intention to clarify the plan with some pictures paid off.:)
When I have all the molds for the row of plates ready, I will put them together and place them next to the plan. But then I will mainly have to remove all the vertical curves again.
Regards, Peter
 
Got to work it out with the new measurements.
Only the mm strips on frames 14, 27, 39 and 51, which immediately gives a calmer image:
0499 Huidgang.jpg
1ø mm rods used to set out the lines between the 6 rows.
0500 Huidgang.jpg
With the progression in the curves of the hull, the width of the rows is not clearly visible.

Lying on her side gives a better view:
0501 Huidgang.jpg
0502 Huidgang.jpg
0503 Huidgang.jpg
Her lines are now also more pronounced.
A good starting point to fine-tune it a bit.
Regards, Peter
 
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Still with all the original drawings present this will be a daunting task. In your scale these plates will need to be accurate at the 10th of a mm. Most probably after bending them additional fine tuning of size would be needed.
Guess this will be your 2025 task :cool:

Speaking about that happy holidays and a healthy 2025.
 
Maarten said:
Still with all the original drawings present this will be a daunting task. In your scale these plates will need to be accurate at the 10th of a mm. Most probably after bending them additional fine tuning of size would be needed.
Guess this will be your 2025 task :cool:

Speaking about that happy holidays and a healthy 2025.
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With all those curves the lines must look right from every angle. An adjustment in one line affects the others. But I am now moving in the right direction.
A lot of challenges in 2025. But good health comes first, Maarten. Thanks for that.
Regards, Peter
 
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