- Joined
- Sep 3, 2021
- Messages
- 4,957
- Points
- 688
Always striving for perfection.
-
"LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY RAFFLE"
Luczorama is proud to launch a 4-week scavenger hunt giveaway packed with creativity, laughs, and nautical nonsense. Explore historic ships, solve easy clues, and have some fun with fellow builders. Complete weekly missions to earn raffle entries — the more you join in, the better your chance to win a Fram model ship by OcCre!
**VIEW RULES HERE**
BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
- Start date
- Watchers 55
All markings placed:
With a thin strip of tape, the top of the first row was marked out with a smooth transition:
And a quick picture of the first 2 hull plates:
I also put some thin pencil lines to mark where the rivets will come. Once completely closed ........
Phew ........... that was quite exciting!
Now she is official a PoF …..
Regards, Peter
With a thin strip of tape, the top of the first row was marked out with a smooth transition:
And a quick picture of the first 2 hull plates:
I also put some thin pencil lines to mark where the rivets will come. Once completely closed ........
Phew ........... that was quite exciting!
Now she is official a PoF …..Regards, Peter
Last edited:
Thanks, Herman. As you can see above I could not wait till 2025 with the plates …….
Regards, Peter
……. Almost ……..
Wonderful progress, Peter. Will the plates overlap or abut one another?
Thanks, Paul. Yes, they have a overlap of 2,5 mm. Place for 2 of 3 rows of rivets. Length wise there will be a overlap of 1,5 mm for 1 rows.
Regards, Peter
How thick is the (evergreen) plating? Will you need to bevel the edges to preserve scale?
It’s 0,13 mm thick. Perfect for wobbling ……. You won’t see a bevel …….
Whew, that's thin stuff! Christmas blessings to you and your family, Peter. Your work is a joy to follow.
Thanks, Paul. Also for you and your beloved.
Regards, Peter
Merry Christmas to you and all the Voogt family!! It is nice to make such progress towards finishing the calendar year! Enjoy as much as we are (definitely myself)
Thanks, Jim. Also for you and your beloved.
Regards, Peter
The 1st row is on:
Now it came from back to front worked out well: building up experience. The thin 0.13 mm thick Evergeen sheet material must be treated with the necessary caution. It kinks quickly.
The row consists of 6 overlapping plates that run with a flange to the keel beam:
The front plate had to get a round flange for this plus the curvature of the extension of the front. Force it bit by bit as you would do with a copper plate.
At the arrow you see a slight deformation. When placing the 2nd row it will disappear.
I will explain the order of placement a bit.
On the previously shown drawing of the main frame you could see that probably the plate with the connection to the deck is placed first. Then the top of the 2nd plate falls over the bottom of the 1st plate:
In this photo that is the top/left drawing with an enlargement of the overlap in the bilge. But maybe they placed the plate at the keel first, didn't rivet it all the way to the top, placed the next plate behind it and then continued riveting? I'll have to see if I can find any information about that.
The drawings I received from the Maritime Museum in Amsterdam also included a drawing of the 'Scheveningse Scheepsbouw-Maatschappij'.
That is the bottom/right drawing in the photo. It shows a different pattern. Overlapping from above and below with the plate overlapping on 2 sides at the beginning of the bilge.
I have decided to work from the bottom up with the 'Vlaardingse Patroon'. For 2 reasons:
- a base for the cement that I want to apply first;
- for the design of the barrel hold and the aft accommodation, and possibly the deck, I need to be able to work between the frames with the tweezers.
When applying a plate, I do not glue it all the way to the top. When I am going to apply a plate of a next row, which has to fall behind the previous row, I slide a 1 mm rod under the already applied plate:
This gives me space to distribute the glue underneath and I can slide the new plate in, pull out the rod and glue it. Any slight deformations on the previously unglued top side are then levelled out by the newly applied plate. A row of rivets will be placed on that overlap later.
On the left of the photo you can see the overlap of 2 plates in the length direction. This overlap is wide enough for a pattern of 3 vertical rows of rivets.
Here I have applied the 1st plate of the 2nd row:
I also play a bit with the light. The problem is that the white plates quickly overshine.
An enlargement with some adjusted light:
At arrow A the overlap in the length direction. At arrow B the top side that has not yet been glued.
Regards, Peter
Now it came from back to front worked out well: building up experience. The thin 0.13 mm thick Evergeen sheet material must be treated with the necessary caution. It kinks quickly.
The row consists of 6 overlapping plates that run with a flange to the keel beam:
The front plate had to get a round flange for this plus the curvature of the extension of the front. Force it bit by bit as you would do with a copper plate.
At the arrow you see a slight deformation. When placing the 2nd row it will disappear.
I will explain the order of placement a bit.
On the previously shown drawing of the main frame you could see that probably the plate with the connection to the deck is placed first. Then the top of the 2nd plate falls over the bottom of the 1st plate:
In this photo that is the top/left drawing with an enlargement of the overlap in the bilge. But maybe they placed the plate at the keel first, didn't rivet it all the way to the top, placed the next plate behind it and then continued riveting? I'll have to see if I can find any information about that.
The drawings I received from the Maritime Museum in Amsterdam also included a drawing of the 'Scheveningse Scheepsbouw-Maatschappij'.
That is the bottom/right drawing in the photo. It shows a different pattern. Overlapping from above and below with the plate overlapping on 2 sides at the beginning of the bilge.
I have decided to work from the bottom up with the 'Vlaardingse Patroon'. For 2 reasons:
- a base for the cement that I want to apply first;
- for the design of the barrel hold and the aft accommodation, and possibly the deck, I need to be able to work between the frames with the tweezers.
When applying a plate, I do not glue it all the way to the top. When I am going to apply a plate of a next row, which has to fall behind the previous row, I slide a 1 mm rod under the already applied plate:
This gives me space to distribute the glue underneath and I can slide the new plate in, pull out the rod and glue it. Any slight deformations on the previously unglued top side are then levelled out by the newly applied plate. A row of rivets will be placed on that overlap later.
On the left of the photo you can see the overlap of 2 plates in the length direction. This overlap is wide enough for a pattern of 3 vertical rows of rivets.
Here I have applied the 1st plate of the 2nd row:
I also play a bit with the light. The problem is that the white plates quickly overshine.
An enlargement with some adjusted light:
At arrow A the overlap in the length direction. At arrow B the top side that has not yet been glued.
Regards, Peter
Last edited:
Fantastic Peter. I assume you are using glue for plastics. When I made my stove for the KF I used that and the working time was rather short and did not clean up well since it acts as a solvent. What has your experience been?
Thanks for the compliments, Mirek.
Regards, Peter
Thanks, Paul. It is indeed a glue for plastic/styreen and acts like a solvent. Here is the link with the content: Faller 170490 The bottle has a needle point for very fine dosing.
It softens the surface and makes a permanent bond. A bit like vulcanizing rubber. You can slide the parts for a few seconds. Spilled glue can either be wiped away immediately or allowed to dry and the hardened residue scraped away with a scalpel or fine file. For the tin 0,13 mm plates I must use a very few otherwise it melts through.
Regards, Peter
And the second row with a picture from a lower view:
Still happy with the result .........
Back to the inside for the cement floor/ballast.
Regards, Peter
Still happy with the result .........
Back to the inside for the cement floor/ballast.
Regards, Peter
Good morning Peter. Wow at 0.13mm I would have thought the evergreen would concave in between each frame. So far very impressive. You have a gazillion rivets coming your wayAnd the second row with a picture from a lower view:
View attachment 492002
Still happy with the result .........
Back to the inside for the cement floor/ballast.
Regards, Peter
.Cheers Grant
Thanks, Grant. When I apply a new plate I distribute the force over the frames with a piece of foam. The plate then retains its 'flow'. When I later slide a new plate under it from above, it distributes the force even more and the smooth line remains intact.
O yes. I don't think the current stock will be sufficient .........You have a gazillion rivets coming your way
Regards, Peter