Brian,
The six plan sheets MS2130 measure 24x40 inches.
Many thanks for that
The plans are related to the instruction booklet which is needed for some steps, illustrated, along the way. It is a downloadable pdf separately for those who do not buy the kit where it is provided. Rich
I am not sure how "accurate" scratch parts of many different sizes and complexities transferred from a full sized and therefore accurate as feasible plan sheets would be. The lumber sizes provided were on a separate sheet from the instruction book, as well as the necessary brass strips which as I commented earlier may not be commercially available at that size now. I am too new of a builder to be able to confidently pass by the POB and go straight to scratch. I will have to do that though from plans that I will have to draw to build my own scratch 1,500 BC Phoenician trade boat from as many different images that I can assemble and then create my own draughts and scantlings from the lines that I can draft. It will be much smaller and in many ways less complex of a model with the very primitive sail and rigging. Biggest challenge though will be to draft frame scantlings along the hull that will conform to the rocker keel of what has been generally described as some as a "tub" which is fair with the double ended and very blunt bow frames mirrored in the stern. That will be my next project and cannot call it a dry dock as there are no kits for this type of boat. All of this is mostly assumption as all of the wood from ancient wrecks has mostly been deteriorated and the best artifacts of those are clay models found in tombs and elsewhere that do not prove very much information that is useful.
@Jimsky, I am staggered by all of these posts that you see and react to in some manner. Thanks for your massive and timely support. Rich
The embed acts like a screen shot and not active so I will Google it up as the price if a deal even if it is only what I see and without scale information here. Thanks for the lead. Rich (PT-2)
It took scrolling through about 7 pages of screens but I found it. Now I'll see what they send. Thanks. Rich
I will do that but had not previously as I was not sure when or if I would actually take the tack. I will now have to figure out how to save your photos as jpg to be able to print them out for my growing collection of images for the model when the lumber is gathered. Thank you for your generous and time consuming support on this matter. Rich (PT-2)
Found the site and photos. Interesting to zoom in on the view looking into the hull from aft where the exposed topmost plank shows the mortise slots for the tenon joinery and through "bolts" just like a separate construction detail showed. An ancient form of a strip canoe model as we build them in the SoS group.
Yes, that was what I did and have posted a few in a new thread. I made some photo copies from a research paper or explanation of a display that are on my desktop but are not jpg or acceptable format for attaching as files in SoS. I will go back to find that source and try again for those. Rich
Hi Rich, I finally took my eyes away from my own BN build to see how others are fairing with theirs. I came across yours and have enjoyed following your progress, methods and frustrations. It is very helpful and informative especially for first time builders such as me. I've replied to this post early on in your build as I am curious to know how you went about staining and vanishing your deck, which is where I am with my build at the moment. My AL instructions simply advise a satin varnish for the deck, and don't specify anything for the walnut waterways, but your deck looks great, and appears to have been subjected to a stain of some kind. Others have used a cherry or oak stain on the decks, which look good too. Knowing very little (well nothing really) about paints, varnishes and finishers in general, I appreciate any thoughts you have on this subject
My brain has to come about to retrace the path several months ago when I finished the deck. The MS2130 kit wood was not the nice pear but was a cherry or some common type that I did not differentiate between the waterway and decking itself. The inside of the bulwarks were painted white with an acrylic and the waterway a light grey. The deck itself after sanding and scraping to eliminate the high planks as well as I could fair them out with those that were too low (No false sub-deck board but only the spaced out bulkheads in the POB model) I think that I may have applied a thin coat of Minwax pre-stain conditioner before a coat of Golden Mahogany wiped off fairly soon and not letting penetrate very long. To my eye it was too light so I did it again. that was a Varathane Medium Fast Dry wood stain. To finish it I used a Varathane Ultimate Polyurethane Water Based Interior Semi-Gloss which is milky but dries transparent. Not the most sophisticated combination but it was for reasons not recalled what I had seen in SoS back then. Others would possibly take a different path and suggest other combinations.Hi Rich, I finally took my eyes away from my own BN build to see how others are fairing with theirs. I came across yours and have enjoyed following your progress, methods and frustrations. It is very helpful and informative especially for first time builders such as me. I've replied to this post early on in your build as I am curious to know how you went about staining and vanishing your deck, which is where I am with my build at the moment. My AL instructions simply advise a satin varnish for the deck, and don't specify anything for the walnut waterways, but your deck looks great, and appears to have been subjected to a stain of some kind. Others have used a cherry or oak stain on the decks, which look good too. Knowing very little (well nothing really) about paints, varnishes and finishers in general, I appreciate any thoughts you have on this subject
That is actually an assembly of separate pieces as you can see but all pushed onto the bowsprit with the inside band/collar. Not all were to scale but it was what I could produce back then. The test well be to see if anything pulls loose when I try to bend (literally) the twisted wire stays up to the foremast as the sails have had the oval wire hoops through the leach which will have to be threaded onto the stay at the time of mounting. The sail weight will add to the tension and finally the small tubular swedges that I made to secure the ends. I have tested the tube diameter and it just works for the wire to pass through twice, once coming up and then after through the fitting and back down beside itself to be pinched closed. Of course, if the wire stays don't work I will surrender and to back to thread stays which I would like to avoid as the actual stays were wire cables without turnbuckles. In actual 1:1 they were able to do this back then with their own swedging tools.Rich! This is brilliant! I was going to make 4 Individual pieces until I saw this!!!! I’m following your tack on this bowsprit band…thanks!
View attachment 251680
