Bonhomme Richard - Pear Cross section kit (with scratch duplicate using alder) Unicorn Model

Shipyard got a new Rottweiler puppy Tues, so work has slowed, as we try to get her to sleep and be comfortable...

Workers were worried about water for the crew. So, a watering station was made and placed near the oven.

I've ordered some "water resin" and will play with that to see if it is worth putting in the bucket.

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The smaller barrels at each cannon station, hold water for swabbing the barrels after firing.

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Workers completed a few small details, when the new pup was napping!

The first attempt at simulated water, using resin, resulted in a small leak between the barrel staves.
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Besides the leak, the test run was a success. In the second attempt below, workers sealed the inside of the bucket with two layers of wood glue to prevent leaks. The water ladle was placed in the bucket/resin. It should be dry tomorrow and will be shown in place on the deck.
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Finally, workers placed bolts in the knees that support the quarterdeck landing platform. They will be glued in place tomorrow.
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Next step in the process will be the quarterdeck level cannons.
 
Workers completed a few small details, when the new pup was napping!

The first attempt at simulated water, using resin, resulted in a small leak between the barrel staves.
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Besides the leak, the test run was a success. In the second attempt below, workers sealed the inside of the bucket with two layers of wood glue to prevent leaks. The water ladle was placed in the bucket/resin. It should be dry tomorrow and will be shown in place on the deck.
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Finally, workers placed bolts in the knees that support the quarterdeck landing platform. They will be glued in place tomorrow.
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Next step in the process will be the quarterdeck level cannons.
Interesting detail with the water, Brad. I wonder how it looks dried up. Been thinking for a while about 'filling' the open half water tank in my model. Have also Maarten’s Alert-water in mind.
Regards, Peter
 
Interesting detail with the water, Brad. I wonder how it looks dried up. Been thinking for a while about 'filling' the open half water tank in my model. Have also Maarten’s Alert-water in mind.
Regards, Peter
Peter,

The photos below show the "water" resin, after it has hardened. I think it looks pretty nice. It appears there was a little capillary action, and some resin was "sucked up" between the spoon and bucket wall. Only noticeable with the camera and flood lights!

I was also able to glue in the quarterdeck landing and ladder.
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After several e-mails and pm's to Unicorn and ZHL, I've given up on trying to get 8 single and 8 double blocks that were not provided in the kit.

SO...the shipyard is working to make them, so I can rig the two upper deck cannons.

The first attempt, with some scrap pearwood, is satisfactory.
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I felt the blocks in the kit were a tad too large anyway AND the upper deck guns I ordered are smaller than those provided in the kit, so these are about 30% smaller. They should look better scale-wise, than those in the kit (see photos of my lower deck guns).
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Now to produce another dozen!
 
Short report on custom cannon rigging of the quarterdeck, before shipyard workers become babysitting grandparents for the week! Progress will pause, happily I might add!!!

Two sets of single and double blocks were made. A spare of each was made because these "Tiny Devils" can get up and hide themselves forever! The stained blocks were the LAST TWO provided in the kit...so "necessity being the mother of innovation" the shipyard went 30% smaller to match the smaller cannons.

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Each block was rigged with black jeweler's wire and rope, both slightly smaller than the main guns.

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The recoil rope (again, slightly smaller than the main deck guns) was served around the bolt that will secure it to the bulkhead.
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The below photo shows the size difference in the quarterdeck cannons (foreground), compared to the two sizes supplied in the kit.
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The final photo shows why I'm documenting, in detail, these custom quarterdeck cannons and "stressing size".

Boudroit's drawings show three significantly different size cannons on the BHR. I ordered the smallest ones pictured (left) and am using them for the top deck cannons.
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Finally, I intend to continue rigging the two cannons in different ways, as a conversation starter. On this deck, one will be "run out ready to fire" and one "stowed for transit", with the barrel secured to the bulkhead and lines trussed up.
 
Shipyard focused on rigging the deadeyes as temps outside for the last two days were zero to -20 degrees!

Lots of pictures below explaining how I deviated from the kit. Hopefully they are helpful to someone on this forum!

As mentioned previously, the wire diameter was too small by 50%, and they only provided one size wire. I ended up using two different jewelry wire sizes (20 gauge and the other is slightly less than half that size.

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The Boudroit diagram below shows the area of the cross section. The red arrows indicate items that were not included in the kit.
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To make the deadeye's, I wrapped a deadeye tightly, created a 90-degree bend, and then popped out the deadeye. With the deadeye out, I trimmed the wire to be flush, then reinserted the deadeye and put a small drop of instant glue.
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The tag end was then bent 180 degrees around tweezers, then trimmed to the correct length and a drop of instant glue was applied. For the smaller deadeyes, I used the small diameter jewelry wire.
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For the chainplates, I turned bolts on the lathe to be the proper diameter. The pins on the right, provided in the kit, were only 40% too small.
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The bolts were then crimped on bends in the wire and a drop of instant glue was applied. These were left overnight. Then the ends were bent up at the angle from Boudroit's drawing (second photo). A second chain link was inserted and bent to the correct length. The ends were trimmed flush and a drop of instant glue applied.

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After many tiny adjustments, with tweezers and small pliers, all the pieces for the port side were ready for installation.

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Below is the final result. Items with the red arrows were not included in the kit but are on the Boudroit plans. In addition, all the wire and bolt heads were substitutions, as those in the kit were much too small.

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I am debating whether I should paint the bolts on the knees black. They were installed months ago.

My hesitation...I'm worried about paint bleeding into the wood around the bolts!!!

All the bolts on interior knees are NOT painted and in places where I couldn't paint them if I wanted....we will see what the shipyard superintendent decides!
Excellent work Brad
 
I am not sure if the BR would be different than other ships of the time, including French, English and American, but the breech rope (recoil rope) was not seized to the ring bolt so it is not so difficult to rig. From The History of English Sea Ordnance volume 2, page 384, depending on the year, it would have been secured to the ring bolt by a round turn and two half hitches or, after about 1750, a single half hitch. (There was a thimble added to the mix about 1790 on English ships). The good news is that the way they were rigged is much easier than trying to apply a full seizing. The photo below shows the round turn and two half hitches.
Allan

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The next image shows the process through the single half hitch and then to the second half hitch.
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I am not sure if the BR would be different than other ships of the time, including French, English and American, but the breech rope (recoil rope) was not seized to the ring bolt so it is not so difficult to rig. From The History of English Sea Ordnance volume 2, page 384, depending on the year, it would have been secured to the ring bolt by a round turn and two half hitches or, after about 1750, a single half hitch. (There was a thimble added to the mix about 1790 on English ships). The good news is that the way they were rigged is much easier than trying to apply a full seizing. The photo below shows the round turn and two half hitches.
Allan

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The next image shows the process through the single half hitch and then to the second half hitch.
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Thanks Allan.
I was a rock climber in my younger years and this "system" seems simple, effective and EASY to adjust.

Ultimately, I am going with the seizing, as the French around this time used a completely different recoil setup than the English. The Recoil rope did not run around the cascabel, like the English. Instead, it went through the carriage. Tobias provided some contemporary French references that show seizing of the recoil rope on the bolt. Besides the Main Gun Deck is already done and rigged this way.

I appreciate your thoughts and diagrams...very functional!

If this link works, you can see the "French" method I used.
 
I am guessing you have a copy of the Jean Bourdriot book Atillerie de Mer. :)There are indeed differences from the English. The below is the French set up according to Boudriot's research.
Allan
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Above is exactly like my main gun deck rigging. The quarterdeck, with its smaller guns will be similar: Smaller out-haul blocks/lines and only a single inhaul line/blocks. I do have the reloading reamer, swab, etc stowed above the guns as indicated above (see first photo below). The second photo shows the gun on the right, doing a drill, with the tools staged on deck. On the quarterdeck, I just completed a small rack for these tools (see final photo below).

Thanks so much for your advice and interest in my build...it is encouraging!

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The shipyard is closed for 5 days to babysit grandchildren so more to follow next week!
 
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Smaller out-haul blocks/lines and only a single inhaul line/blocks.
I agree and it seems to have been common practice. According to Caruana's research, only 32 pounders and 42 pounders used a double and single block. 24 pounders and smaller used two single sheave blocks for both train tackle and the two running out tackles.

Allan
 
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