Chaperon 1884 Stern Wheeler

" Buongiorno Sentiero, chiedo: avevi bisogno della carta vetrata nera per il ponte a che scopo"

Ciao,

La carta vetrata doveva simulare una copertura per il ponte dell'uragano. Il piano era di coprire le giunture a coda di rondine dei quattro pezzi che si incastrano tra loro che compongono quel mazzo.

View attachment 286571

Non è un'ottima foto, ma nel cerchio puoi vedere le giunture a coda di rondine. Il ponte principale, il ponte Boiler e il ponte Hurricane sono composti da quattro pezzi. Volevo nascondere/coprire le fughe dove sarebbero state visibili, quindi ho fasciato le parti visibili del ponte principale e del ponte caldaia per coprire le fughe.

Spero che questo risponda alla tua domanda.

gen

gen
Ciao Path, prova a colorarlo con pittura nera è versare sabbia finissima , otterrai un ponte anti sdrucciolevole ,fammi sapere
 
Frank48 said. (translated more or less)

Hi Path, try to color it with black paint it is pour fine sand , you will get a slippery bridge ,let me know.

Hi,

Thank you for response, that is a great idea, but I get into enough trouble with my Admiral making a mess with sanding, making lingering paint smells let alone get sand on workspace and the rug. But all in all I like your idea.

Jan
 
Bumblers Notebook: Thinking about the next step - Gluing the Bling Bling AKA Brass Railings and Stanchion Support Brackets

Reading ahead in the build instructions "gel type" CA glue is recommended to glue the Brass railings and support brackets. Like @Paul( dockattner) I have problems with the CA type glues. What are the alternatives????

Jan
 
Bumblers Notebook: Thinking about the next step - Gluing the Bling Bling AKA Brass Railings and Stanchion Support Brackets

Reading ahead in the build instructions "gel type" CA glue is recommended to glue the Brass railings and support brackets. Like @Paul( dockattner) I have problems with the CA type glues. What are the alternatives????

Jan
Hi Jan, I have been able to use the following without adverse reactions (still need to limit my exposure over time):

1643298307096.png Problem: it is quite expensive! $25 from Amazon for a little bottle!
 
Hi Jan, I have been able to use the following without adverse reactions (still need to limit my exposure over time):

View attachment 286598 Problem: it is quite expensive! $25 from Amazon for a little bottle!
Hi Paul,

I bought these when I bought the kit.

A3437945-6C9E-42EF-972E-0B5B1E443C39.jpeg

I've not tried the gel. But anytime I've used this one,

96E064D9-E923-43A2-9427-66A1821E1EEF.jpeg

It's cough - sneeze - runny eyes, etc . So ....

Jan
 
Yup. Regular CA does that to me as well but I am able to use the Loctite 403 without adverse reaction. It is 'low odor' and I know of several others on the forum that react to normal CA but have been able to use the 403. Anyway, just giving you an option if you want to spend some money on an experiment. There's always fast set epoxy - but in my hands it just makes a mess.
 
Loctite 403
That sounds like a good solution. I will place an order today. I also need a quick setting glue to glue the stanchions for the deck I'm working on. There are 56 of them and trying to keep a "ripple" out, keeping the deck level and following the contour will be a little tricky. The plan is to do a couple stanchions at a time and work from Stern to the Stem. I want to glue the smoke stack bottoms when everything lines up.

54A74040-98D9-4950-87F1-0E11E6CE0494_1_201_a.jpeg

I guy can never have enough LEGOs. I managed to find a combination of bricks the right height
that I needed to set the spacing between the two decks. This part of the build is going to be fun.

(Hmm I've got several Louis Armstrong CD’s playing in the background, just right for rockin'an sippin' :cool::cool::cool:)

Jan
 
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disse Frank48. (tradotto più o meno)

Ciao Path, prova a colorarlo con vernice nera, versa sabbia fine, otterrai un ponte scivoloso, fammi sapere.

Ciao,

Grazie per la risposta, è un'ottima idea, ma ho avuto già abbastanza problemi con il mio ammiraglio che ha fatto un pasticcio con la carteggiatura, lasciando odori persistenti di vernice per non parlare della sabbia sull'area di lavoro e sul tappeto. Ma tutto sommato mi piace la tua idea.

gen
Ciao, provare con un piccolo rullo da pittore buccia d'arancia (imbianchino) con colla dente nero a acqua.1643302058116.png
 
Ciao, provare con un piccolo rullo da pittore buccia d'arancia (imbianchino) con colla dente nero a acqua.View attachment 286605
Hi,

The small roller is a great idea. I used a 4cm wide foam brush. I brushed the paint on from wet to dry in one direction because of the wood grain. I let each brushed on layer dry for a day and then buffed it with 000 steel wool. The last two layers were applied from a spray paint can, lightly buffed with the 000 steel wool and then rubbed vigorously with a heavy cotton cloth. The whole process took a week or so, but I like the result.

Jan
 
Ciao,

Il piccolo rullo è un'ottima idea. Ho usato una spazzola di gommapiuma larga 4 cm. Ho spazzolato la vernice da bagnata ad asciutta in una direzione a causa delle venature del legno. Ho lasciato asciugare ogni strato spazzolato per un giorno e poi l'ho lucidato con 000 lana d'acciaio. Gli ultimi due strati sono stati applicati da una bomboletta di vernice spray, leggermente smerigliati con lana d'acciaio 000 e poi strofinati energicamente con un panno di cotone pesante. L'intero processo ha richiesto una settimana o giù di lì, ma mi piace il risultato.

gen
non bagnare troppo altrimenti si deforma il legno.
 
non bagnare troppo altrimenti si deforma il legno.
(Translated (more e or less)) Don't wet too much otherwise the wood deforms.

You are absolutely correct. That piece is only 1/16 of an inch thick (about 1.6 mm). The foam brush helped to keep the applied paint layer very thin.

Jan
 
Bumblers Notebook: “The forever build”

A great day to work in the boatyard. Another weekend storm with swirling snow one minute and freezing rain the next is raging outside. The amount of snow forecast is minor, but the ice accretion could be up to one half inch (12mm) or more.

I wasn’t going to post my progress once I looked at the photo I took last night. (Frankly the build looks terrible). Looking closely there are shadows, hollows and just plain bad looking spots everywhere. The picture is an indication of my slow progress. But then Admiral noted that she wouldn’t take a picture in the late afternoon with poor room lighting.

So here we go……

C71EF357-746E-464A-9783-C55CCB271225.jpeg

The next photo will be outside in full sunlight. But honestly I’m on no hurry to complete this build but it feels like I’ve been working on it “Forever”

Jan
 
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Hello Jan. It is again very difficult to judge on that photograph why you are unhappy. I have enlarged the pictures and still do not see bad spots or "hollows". Shadows there will always be - so not quite sure what you mean. Are you not being too hard on yourself?
 
Hello Jan. It is again very difficult to judge on that photograph why you are unhappy. I have enlarged the pictures and still do not see bad spots or "hollows". Shadows there will always be - so not quite sure what you mean. Are you not being too hard on yourself?
Hi Heinrich,

I think it’s the white paint. (I really don’t like painting). The major structures simulate board and batten construction. I’ve not been able to get an even coverage of paint on those pieces wether I use a brush or rattle can. I probably should have used an airbrush but do not own one, let alone know how to use one. To my eye (they are old eyes) the area between the battens is where the “hollows“ and “odd spots“ show. Maybe once I start adding the “bling” things will look better. :oops::oops:

Jan
 
Did you use a primer Jan?
I used a Gray Acrylic primer then several coats of Flat White. I didn't like that result, sanded everything down as best as I could, primed again and then brushed on Acrylic White. The result in my eyes is about the same.




9C97F449-D8DD-4417-81FB-5EA5A124268E_1_201_a.jpeg

Circled are the odd shadows, etc.

Jan
 
But you know Jan - and I am speaking from my perspective only - those shadows actually make it look real - like the finest trace of coal dust from the stacks has lightly blown over that portion. Authentic man! Thumbsup
 
Indeed, all it took was a mini power surge. Our commercial power was interrupted. It takes about 10 to 15 seconds for our home generator to come on line.From what I could discern the iMac was in the process of updating it's OS which it usually does automatically, (That process is now on manual mode), and the short delay between the generator coming on line and commercial power dropping was enough to crash the upgrade process. I have a 4 TB external hard drive connected to the iMac, its sole purpose is to act as mirror drive to the iMacs internal SST drive. So no data or files were lost and I could restore everything from the backup drive. Apple devices have the ability to share everything between devices such as iPhones, iMacs, iPads and Mac Pros, that neat ability caused all the extra recovery time today. What I create on one device shows on the others. Having spent years working in the Microsoft World and having Android phones I thought that was a neat feature :rolleyes:. I switched from my I loved it "Blackberry" to an iPhone when my provider no longer supported 2G :eek:. I've restructured my setup now so my iPhone shares photos only with my Mac and iPad.

Sorry for the long tale, but I learned a good lesson today.

Jan
Jan,
Not to butt in however, living in Florida ( The capitol of lightening strikes) I have ALL my devices on UPS systems.
Even have my CNC on a UPS. Obviously it’s not a large enough unit to keep the CNC running for a long period but long enough that I can do a pause which stops the spindle and keeps the control system energized so the data isn’t corrupted. I installed that one after I was six hours into a ten hour cut and had to restart the project. All that was due to a momentary power blip.
 
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