Hi, Jimsky. How did you make wooden carriage parts? This should be quite a task if you made them.
Charles Royal Yacht, 1674, Scale 1:64, by Woody Joe (Japan)
Hi, Jimsky. How did you make wooden carriage parts? This should be quite a task if you made them.
All of the wooden parts, Including the tracks, were made using MF70 and a table saw. I use blocks of pearwood and mill them to the desired shape before slicing them on the tablesaw. I believe I made a couple of tutorials for making the cannon parts using the Proxxon MF70 mill. Some of the tutorials in my Alert builds.
I will try to find them and provide links.
I will try to find them and provide links.
good job with using your mill - very good result
Hi, this log is a master piece. Thank you for sharing it.
Hi Jim, after all this time I only happened across your log yesterday. I started reading from your first entry in 2018 and over the years you have given some truly excellent information and techniques.
I found a chair at the back of the room under a tarpaulin so will edge forwards and follow along
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I found a chair at the back of the room under a tarpaulin so will edge forwards and follow along
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Thank you for your trust, there are plenty of seats on the opposite side as most members are left due to a long time of inactivityHi Jim, after all this time I only happened across your log yesterday. I started reading from your first entry in 2018 and over the years you have given some truly excellent information and techniques.
I found a chair at the back of the room under a tarpaulin so will edge forwards and follow along
Thank you, this was the idea of those jigs. A repetition of the work makes you think about jigs not as much to speed up the process, but more to make all the parts and the same. more jigs to come...stay tuned.I like your approach to your canon redo, especially the jig you made to ease the process and to ensure repeatability and consistency.
Could you please tell how you made the carriage wheels? As you did not use the lathe I am curious if you used technic described in this video for drilling a center hole in round dowel:
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Hello, Yuri. Thank you for the great video, something you learn every day. Not sure if I will disappoint you, but I am not using dowels to make cannon tracks (wheels). I found the tutorial I posted earlier, the way I like to make the tracks.
Tutorial - Making the cannon trucks (wheels) using Proxxon MF70
You heard it right, folks!! I am continuing the mini tutorials to fabricate parts utilizing the Proxon mill MF70. If you have not had a chance to read my previous articles, please take a look, you may find them useful for your next project. But...if you have other useful way\s of utilizing your...
shipsofscale.com
Hope this will address your question.
Thanks, Jim. Results look fantastic! You actually turned the mill into an improvised lathe.
Exactly! With the lathe, you will have more functioning length to make tracks. With a bit longer bolt, you may have more blanks sandwiched for a single cut. With one specific jig, you will make them identical in diameter. I will post this jig (tool) later today.
@Y.T. Here is the device I use in the mill to make the tracks' diameters identical.
It is attached to the worktable on the back because, in my setup, the installed vise will not permit me to use it. It simply acts as the stopper. Click on the photo to enlarge.
Additionally, you can make your own mandrels depending on the track size you require for the project. The smaller the mandrel, the smaller the diameter you can make.
If you have questions, please let me know.
This is how to make gun carriages….. Stunning Jim.
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Jim,
All I can say is, "WOW"!! I've always realized you've had a leading presence here on SoS. I've watch countless tutorial videos you've posted, learning a lot. I've asked myself a few times, where is the project Jim is working on requiring all these cool methodologies? For some unexplained reason, I've never purposefully searched for your build. Forgive me.
Now that I've found it, WOW! I really appreciate your work. It's very clear to me you've made this kit your own with your enhancements. Moreover, I really appreciate your innovative approach to problem solving. Your engineering background shines through. And like always, you've given me a few methods I have noted for future application on my own project.
Super work my friend!!
Cheers!
All I can say is, "WOW"!! I've always realized you've had a leading presence here on SoS. I've watch countless tutorial videos you've posted, learning a lot. I've asked myself a few times, where is the project Jim is working on requiring all these cool methodologies? For some unexplained reason, I've never purposefully searched for your build. Forgive me.
Now that I've found it, WOW! I really appreciate your work. It's very clear to me you've made this kit your own with your enhancements. Moreover, I really appreciate your innovative approach to problem solving. Your engineering background shines through. And like always, you've given me a few methods I have noted for future application on my own project.
Super work my friend!!
Cheers!
Hello, Ken.Thank you for your kind words, which make me blush.
I came from a country where innovation and technology had already existed for 20 years in other countries. We were joking that most of the mechanical work can be done only with a screwdriver and hammer. We struggle to find designated tools for a given job. We made tolls on our own, I couldn't afford nor can find good tools. But, I must say, that the engineering school was of high grade and I have learned a lot! I am happy to share my knowledge with the hope it may come in handy one day to others. Thanks again.
I came from a country where innovation and technology had already existed for 20 years in other countries. We were joking that most of the mechanical work can be done only with a screwdriver and hammer. We struggle to find designated tools for a given job. We made tolls on our own, I couldn't afford nor can find good tools. But, I must say, that the engineering school was of high grade and I have learned a lot! I am happy to share my knowledge with the hope it may come in handy one day to others. Thanks again.
Good evening, all.
Many thanks to all of you for your comments and 'likes'! I am happy you supported my decision to re-do and follow along with the log updates! I am also happy that some of you may use the techniques described here in your current or future builds.
I have a few hours in the evening so I can continue with the cannons re-do. A few days back, we completed the wooden part of the gun, and today, we will start the metal components part. We will make all the parts from scratch (except the barrels which I bought). So, let's begin with the barrels.
The barrels come with the trunnion also turned CNC (a nice touch). I will use the hard (easy) solder and torch to solder trunnion into the barrel. Using the cut-out dick to make a deep groove for a piece of solder. This way the solder will melt inside the barrel making the outside nice and clean. The spots you are seeing in the below (right) image are oxidation as a result of heat.
While the barrel was still hot, I gave it a bath of vinegar, to remove accumulated oxidation. Vinegar acts as the acid and cleans brass. One of the barrel enhancements is to make the Pan (touch hole or vent). The problem, however, is I would have to use 0.2mm endmil. I do have such a mill but only one and was afraid to break it. But... I succeeded without fail. I like the results. what about you?
Here is how the gun looks today after fitting the barrel on the carriage.
I couldn't resist trying out this gun (as is) on the model to make sure it fit on the deck and in harmony with the rest. I think it looks better...but we shall see once the gun is fully assembled.
That's all for this evening, folks. Yeah, the time flies... Thanks again, all to be continued...
P.S. The last image to answer the question of Yuri @Y.T. How I made multiple parts at once. The photo should explain.
Many thanks to all of you for your comments and 'likes'! I am happy you supported my decision to re-do and follow along with the log updates! I am also happy that some of you may use the techniques described here in your current or future builds.
I have a few hours in the evening so I can continue with the cannons re-do. A few days back, we completed the wooden part of the gun, and today, we will start the metal components part. We will make all the parts from scratch (except the barrels which I bought). So, let's begin with the barrels.
The barrels come with the trunnion also turned CNC (a nice touch). I will use the hard (easy) solder and torch to solder trunnion into the barrel. Using the cut-out dick to make a deep groove for a piece of solder. This way the solder will melt inside the barrel making the outside nice and clean. The spots you are seeing in the below (right) image are oxidation as a result of heat.
While the barrel was still hot, I gave it a bath of vinegar, to remove accumulated oxidation. Vinegar acts as the acid and cleans brass. One of the barrel enhancements is to make the Pan (touch hole or vent). The problem, however, is I would have to use 0.2mm endmil. I do have such a mill but only one and was afraid to break it. But... I succeeded without fail. I like the results. what about you?
Here is how the gun looks today after fitting the barrel on the carriage.
I couldn't resist trying out this gun (as is) on the model to make sure it fit on the deck and in harmony with the rest. I think it looks better...but we shall see once the gun is fully assembled.
That's all for this evening, folks. Yeah, the time flies... Thanks again, all to be continued...
P.S. The last image to answer the question of Yuri @Y.T. How I made multiple parts at once. The photo should explain.
Thank you, Grant!! The process is not really difficult.
Nice job, Jim! I would be afraid to drill the touch hole. I’m finding it hard to find good tiny bits. I guard the one I have with my life! Where do you get your bits?