Columbus ships, Santa Maria and Pinta, kit by Amati... [COMPLETED BUILD]

Work continues making two rigging bitts.

First I cut the lumber a bit longer that it is needed, approximately 30mm (20mm needed) so I would have a bit more handling space while working on a bench saw.. end that will be tapped is first sanded to 90 degree..

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Then the 60 degree angle was applied on all four sides...

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Making it to look like this:

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Then I run all vertical posts thru bench saw to make small decorative cuts on all four sides and to make a slot for dado joint connecting elm back with bitt pins....

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Slots are cleaned with scalpel and a file.. parts are glued and I added a nail in each connection point and at the bottom of the bitt pins. Bottom pin will assist holding it on the deck. 6mm wire simulated the nails which are then sanded flush.

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After measuring, it was added to the deck.

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Happy modelling..
 
Work continues making two rigging bitts.

First I cut the lumber a bit longer that it is needed, approximately 30mm (20mm needed) so I would have a bit more handling space while working on a bench saw.. end that will be tapped is first sanded to 90 degree..

View attachment 389395

Then the 60 degree angle was applied on all four sides...

View attachment 389394

Making it to look like this:

View attachment 389393

Then I run all vertical posts thru bench saw to make small decorative cuts on all four sides and to make a slot for dado joint connecting elm back with bitt pins....

View attachment 389392

Slots are cleaned with scalpel and a file.. parts are glued and I added a nail in each connection point and at the bottom of the bitt pins. Bottom pin will assist holding it on the deck. 6mm wire simulated the nails which are then sanded flush.

View attachment 389391

After measuring, it was added to the deck.

View attachment 389390

Happy modelling..
Good morning. Excellent. Those rigging bits are perfect. Cheers Grant
 
The second rigging bitt installed, close to the mizzenmast..

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For my Columbo's fleet I decided not to put any rat lines since I was not able to locate any specific proof that rat lines were used/not used on ships at that era... actually the main reason was to get a bit of a break from rat lining job :). I will make a rope ladder to make a way for the sailors at that time, to climb up and do they work...

First I traced one pair of rigging lines and rat lines from the plan...

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... and tested fitting on the ship...

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... there are some space on model, just on the port side of a mainmast that can hold ladders, attached to the deck with two hooks.

Then I made a jig to assist me in running "ratlines" on my ladder. It is just a piece of plywood, long enough to hold the ladder rope. On the top and bottom I put two other pieces of wood to rise up the rope from the template so I can run my fingers under the rope while making ladder steps... The rope was secured and tightly wrapped around three pins, like guitar strings.. I might be even able to play some tunes.. Deliverance style..

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I might make a ladder bit more narrower at the bottom; it appears bigger than I like. This is not hard to adjust..

I run out of ropes so had to colour few meters or a rope I will use for ratlines... while rope is drying, I continue working on the rigging lines at the port side. For now just running all lines loose and preparing for tightening them all up later.

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Happy modelling..
 
This summer I had a pleasure to visit a Borghese museum in Rome and even it does not have nothing to do with maritime, beside the way Borghese were transporting their artistic pieces, I find it very interesting and amazing, how artists at that time were able to add a life into a cold piece of marble.

For all of us struggling to achieve satisfactory level of wood carving for purpose of ship modelling, the way Bernini weас able to put a life into marble, it is just one inspirational injection. Imagine the way this artist worked on a stone, what tools he used and how he was able to transfer the picture in his head into this gorgeous artwork, just blowing my mind..... For me, this statue is a live...

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Happy modelling..
 
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This time I worked on lashing a lanyard for rigging hearts...

First the small eye with simple seizing was made, thru which I will run the rope; rope end was made stiffer with a bit of a CA glue..

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Then I run it few time thru hearts...

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Half-end result...

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Now I added a small piece of rope which will allow me to pull thru the rope end and hide it nicely and run the rope around it..

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End rope pulled under by pooling the black rope...

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Then, the end of the rope entered the heart one more time and was hidden inside, secured with a drop of CA glue. The excess rope was cut with scissors.

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Very tiny place to work but happy with end result.

Happy modelling..
 
Continue working on stays... foremast first... first had a simple seizing slide up to the stay rope and then run rope around the bowsprit two times...

SantaMAria788.jpg

Then the seizing was slide down and tighten, secured with a drop of CA. One side of the seizing rope was twisted around stay 6 times and again secured with a drop of CA. Excess seizing rope and stay rope was cut with scissors.

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On shorter side of stay, I added another seizing loop and secured with a drop of CA.

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Next were stays for mizzen mast. I was not happy with one I made before, after testing with lanyard, I noticed stay block will be positioned too low and will not be that visible. I removed blocks from stay but that, did not leave me with enough rope fix the block again, so decided to remove existing...

The new stays are done with two ropes, seized together. One side can be completely done and secured with CA, but the other side need to be left loose so it can slide over the mast.

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The work was done with assistance from 4 hands...

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Again, simple seizing rope was added, tight and secured with small drop of CA. One end of seizing rope was twisted around the stay rope and secured with CA. Excess was cut..

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It was then attached to the mast..

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.. and seizing loop was push towards the mast and secured with CA; few runs around the stay rope and another CA drop.

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Excess stay rope was also cut.

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Now I have enough rope to complete the work..

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Happy modelling.
 
Continue working on stays... foremast first... first had a simple seizing slide up to the stay rope and then run rope around the bowsprit two times...

View attachment 401342

Then the seizing was slide down and tighten, secured with a drop of CA. One side of the seizing rope was twisted around stay 6 times and again secured with a drop of CA. Excess seizing rope and stay rope was cut with scissors.

View attachment 401341

On shorter side of stay, I added another seizing loop and secured with a drop of CA.

View attachment 401340

Next were stays for mizzen mast. I was not happy with one I made before, after testing with lanyard, I noticed stay block will be positioned too low and will not be that visible. I removed blocks from stay but that, did not leave me with enough rope fix the block again, so decided to remove existing...

The new stays are done with two ropes, seized together. One side can be completely done and secured with CA, but the other side need to be left loose so it can slide over the mast.

View attachment 401339

The work was done with assistance from 4 hands...

View attachment 401338

Again, simple seizing rope was added, tight and secured with small drop of CA. One end of seizing rope was twisted around the stay rope and secured with CA. Excess was cut..

View attachment 401337

It was then attached to the mast..

View attachment 401336

.. and seizing loop was push towards the mast and secured with CA; few runs around the stay rope and another CA drop.

View attachment 401335

Excess stay rope was also cut.

View attachment 401334

Now I have enough rope to complete the work..

View attachment 401333

Happy modelling.
Looking very good indeed. Cheers.
 
Continue working on stays... foremast first... first had a simple seizing slide up to the stay rope and then run rope around the bowsprit two times...

View attachment 401342

Then the seizing was slide down and tighten, secured with a drop of CA. One side of the seizing rope was twisted around stay 6 times and again secured with a drop of CA. Excess seizing rope and stay rope was cut with scissors.

View attachment 401341

On shorter side of stay, I added another seizing loop and secured with a drop of CA.

View attachment 401340

Next were stays for mizzen mast. I was not happy with one I made before, after testing with lanyard, I noticed stay block will be positioned too low and will not be that visible. I removed blocks from stay but that, did not leave me with enough rope fix the block again, so decided to remove existing...

The new stays are done with two ropes, seized together. One side can be completely done and secured with CA, but the other side need to be left loose so it can slide over the mast.

View attachment 401339

The work was done with assistance from 4 hands...

View attachment 401338

Again, simple seizing rope was added, tight and secured with small drop of CA. One end of seizing rope was twisted around the stay rope and secured with CA. Excess was cut..

View attachment 401337

It was then attached to the mast..

View attachment 401336

.. and seizing loop was push towards the mast and secured with CA; few runs around the stay rope and another CA drop.

View attachment 401335

Excess stay rope was also cut.

View attachment 401334

Now I have enough rope to complete the work..

View attachment 401333

Happy modelling.
Good afternoon. Lovely work. Cheers Grant
 
I stumbled upon one SM plan that has a cooking, open fire area, camping type kitchen, which kind of a matching the ship' era. And I decided to give it a shot and see if I can squeeze it on the main deck, without causing weird disproportion feelings...

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First I cut four pieces I will use as a base which will be painted in red to simulate bricks..

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After short drying I started to add sides and the back out of 1mm some wood I had around. The plan is to paint those sides in black and to do a bit of a weathering simulating smoke, dust, ash, burned fat...

Before sanding..

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Trying to find adequate space... dont want to install it further down the main deck which is covered, so need to find some decent place as it will simulate open fire pit/kitchen. I will do some measuring and might move the anchor rope openings on the main deck a further back towards bow but will see.. might need to measure the distance between windlass and the front cabin and make it the same distance towards the stove... if you guys have any other ideas to position this pit, let me know..

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The bottom was done with a piece of paper since this will hold the sea salt I am planning to use to simulate hot coil. The pit was sanded a bit more as well as sides.

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I also opened two holes on the sides' panels that will hold the metal bar for hanging hooks.

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Black, mat colour was applied.... and bricks simulated with white pencil.. It will be darkened later..

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After few layers of "coil".. this is third layer of salt, first a layer of white glue then salt, let it dry, second glue layer ( bit grouped towards the centre), salt, dry, third layer of glue just in the middle of the pit, salt, dry... With brushing some salt will drop of so need to have some more to work with..

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Happy modelling..
 
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