Not my problem thankfully but I could display it in my homes hallway, many new homes here have wide halls now, just need to swing the yards around a bit as the yard length is really the biggest issue with size, height and length are not really
Cutty Sark Semi Kit 1/40 Prototype
- Thread starter RichardHDunn
- Start date
- Watchers 28
You had to be from up that way somewhere. I knew a few Mainiacs back in the day in Massachusetts.I am from Maine…a common Maine saying…as in “That pizza is wicked good!” South Boston is a bunch of flat landers!
From the great looks of that model I'd say the beer is mostly empty as opposed to mostly full. Ha! Good start with that Richard so why not finish it? You are certainly making a name for yourself and I for one see that you deserve it. Bigger is always better I think. So what is your main project?
The Wahine, the one with the beer I am holding is my main project, I wasn't saying that's tiny... I am not totally loopy...
I built Cutty Sark as a kid from the longridge book but plank on frame, this is a job for a customer not sure I would ever finish it, but I will plank it and the decks and see what happens.
It's an easyish plank apart from stern, no stealers and apart from a wider garboard its just evenly divided girths and full length strakes
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Ok I am devoid of some nautical terms so: What part is the 'plate'? Which are the 'counter bulwarks' and which are the 'counter frames'? I may as well get involved now as I'm sure I'll be asking you later.
Ok, I see. Do you have a build posted for the Wahine? I'd like to see more of how you built it if It's available. It sure is my kind of size. Can you make a kit of it? I think your into an era where nobody else is making any kits at all. It would be nice if a few were available in this large scale. If I made one I'd have to give it to a museum I suppose. Norgale
Sure the counter is the upper portion of the stern and the overhanging part.
The frames being the parts that define its shape.
The frames being the parts that define its shape.
The Wahine build link is right under the photo and yes it's in this site now, I am gradually bringing it up to date
The counter cant frames glued in.
The 1mm ply sheerplate installed dry, the top of this is the uppermost planked portion of the hull and the inside is the surface the bulwark plates get fixed to with a 4mm overlap.
The hawse pipe holes which exit in the trail boards
The 1mm ply sheerplate installed dry, the top of this is the uppermost planked portion of the hull and the inside is the surface the bulwark plates get fixed to with a 4mm overlap.
The hawse pipe holes which exit in the trail boards
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I appreciate all the information here Richard. I am just really excited about this large scale model. Thanks. Pete
Every time I hear large scale I cringe.....I need to reprogram my brain.. this is not large to me the hull is only 1.6m.
I will get their in time.
I do realise it's my perception that is wrong don't worry..
This is the same hull at the same scale, If you still call this large then I will fold and submit.....
This was done on CNC but scrapped for various reasons
I will get their in time.
I do realise it's my perception that is wrong don't worry..
This is the same hull at the same scale, If you still call this large then I will fold and submit.....
This was done on CNC but scrapped for various reasons
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A shot of the fore and aft frames in cad to show the lines and planking, the planking is exact as in ship even the butts are in the right place, we know this because the butt plates are part of the iron work and all of those were recorded in an excel doc and sadly to say to you all they are not in a 2,3, or even 4 step pattern they are all over the place and even though she had many planks replaced and recorded in her logs they would not have changed the butts as the butt plates are part of the structure but it seems unlikely the rule was followed strictly if at all, rather what was available as far as wood length goes..
We will never know I guess, and the sketch done of Cutty Sark while she was being built in Dumbarton does not show it as its too far away.
The two colours show the elm and teak planking and where it changed
We will never know I guess, and the sketch done of Cutty Sark while she was being built in Dumbarton does not show it as its too far away.
The two colours show the elm and teak planking and where it changed
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A note about Teak decking and why I recommend Anigre for teak
Firstly its cheapish.
Secondly it is very fine grained so no big pores to deal with
Thirdly it has fine grain patterns if cut right looking like scale timber, and lots of subtle colour variation in a board.
here is a photo of my stash , note the colours compared to photos, its very close, the best I know of in my experience.
Even the greyer boards look like more weathered teak
These boards to the right are about 120mm wide
On another note if you go and buy Anigre make sure you don't get stuff with figure in it, it has a lot of fiddleback/flame figure great for using in furniture and guitars which I do use it for , like below, but it will look bad as model decking and is very hard to work.
This image shows a cabinet that is veneered in Anigre and stained, note the striped figure in it common in most Anigre veneer, try to buy solid timber not veneer.
The Anigre is the lighter of the 3 woods over most of the cabinet, the others are Black walnut and Macassar Ebony.
And installed on a the Super Yacht, MY Silver Fox.
Better lighting making grain more prominent than the first photo.
Firstly its cheapish.
Secondly it is very fine grained so no big pores to deal with
Thirdly it has fine grain patterns if cut right looking like scale timber, and lots of subtle colour variation in a board.
here is a photo of my stash , note the colours compared to photos, its very close, the best I know of in my experience.
Even the greyer boards look like more weathered teak
These boards to the right are about 120mm wide
On another note if you go and buy Anigre make sure you don't get stuff with figure in it, it has a lot of fiddleback/flame figure great for using in furniture and guitars which I do use it for , like below, but it will look bad as model decking and is very hard to work.
This image shows a cabinet that is veneered in Anigre and stained, note the striped figure in it common in most Anigre veneer, try to buy solid timber not veneer.
The Anigre is the lighter of the 3 woods over most of the cabinet, the others are Black walnut and Macassar Ebony.
And installed on a the Super Yacht, MY Silver Fox.
Better lighting making grain more prominent than the first photo.
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Rabbet carving on this model.
Richard, thanks for the great video. Nicely done! Magic Mike
Progress shots from this morning
Anigre deck planking stock ready to be sawn into planks.
American Cherry ready to be sawn for hull planks.
38mm prop sticks to hold down tween deck.
Foredeck laminating Jig, sorry second one is blurry
The glued .8mm deck base glued from 2 x.4mm 3 ply layers. This has the sheer and camber now formed into it and will hold it's shape without needed structural elements to hold its form, although the Samson posts and pillars will do so anyway, it can be framed up with styrene angle and sheet as per the ship under the deck
The cutwater parts being fine tuned for fit.
Final assembly of the hull, forward frames are in, tween decks loaded in and closing hull ready to glue down tween decks, note hatch coamings and longitudinals holding it all in line vertically.
Anigre deck planking stock ready to be sawn into planks.
American Cherry ready to be sawn for hull planks.
38mm prop sticks to hold down tween deck.
Foredeck laminating Jig, sorry second one is blurry
The glued .8mm deck base glued from 2 x.4mm 3 ply layers. This has the sheer and camber now formed into it and will hold it's shape without needed structural elements to hold its form, although the Samson posts and pillars will do so anyway, it can be framed up with styrene angle and sheet as per the ship under the deck
The cutwater parts being fine tuned for fit.
Final assembly of the hull, forward frames are in, tween decks loaded in and closing hull ready to glue down tween decks, note hatch coamings and longitudinals holding it all in line vertically.
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Frame for hull is complete and glued, just the tween decks to glue down next and then the decks, sheerplates and bilge stringers and it's planking time.
Note tween deck parts are already inside and can be moved around out of the way to glue.
I should add that even thought the deck will hold the ship in line I will be bracing the stem, stern post next and bracing 2-3 midship frames level just to keep it all lined up while decks are glued in.
In this shot the theory behind the construction is seen, most models go with the knuckle or white moulding on the hull at deck level for ease of build, even Longridge did on his but it's not it's higher then the deck and that is why is this shot you can see how the deck level inside the saloon area is apparently lower, its the same height as deck but the plywood surround around the saloon is the correct height for the knuckle and start of bulwark so its lifted up.
I hope that makes sense....
In the below image the brass fixing strap for the main stay connections to the deck are shown, they are pinned through to the carlings, the holes can be seen behind, these will get brass blackened and protrude through the deck. this should be good and strong
Here it is in cad, might be easier to explain
And in reality in foreground, remember the frames in the model correspond exactly with the beams in the ship
Views of deck
Using the poop frame to assemble the saloon in to hold its shape.
Note tween deck parts are already inside and can be moved around out of the way to glue.
I should add that even thought the deck will hold the ship in line I will be bracing the stem, stern post next and bracing 2-3 midship frames level just to keep it all lined up while decks are glued in.
In this shot the theory behind the construction is seen, most models go with the knuckle or white moulding on the hull at deck level for ease of build, even Longridge did on his but it's not it's higher then the deck and that is why is this shot you can see how the deck level inside the saloon area is apparently lower, its the same height as deck but the plywood surround around the saloon is the correct height for the knuckle and start of bulwark so its lifted up.
I hope that makes sense....
In the below image the brass fixing strap for the main stay connections to the deck are shown, they are pinned through to the carlings, the holes can be seen behind, these will get brass blackened and protrude through the deck. this should be good and strong
Here it is in cad, might be easier to explain
And in reality in foreground, remember the frames in the model correspond exactly with the beams in the ship
Views of deck
Using the poop frame to assemble the saloon in to hold its shape.
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I am very interested in a set of plans.
I am very interested in a set of plans!
A set of plans for me too. At least to start off with when they're ready of course. Getting back to cutting the rabbet, hasn't any one made a tool for that by now? Looks like a tool on rollers like the chisel sharpening tool would be great for the straight parts along the bottom of the false keel. Also can the metal angel tool be bought someplace? I've only seen plastic ones that look rather flimsy. What I'm seeing here is the work of a perfectionist in that the hull looks just as good during construction as it looks when it's finished. Maybe even better. Absolute beauty all the way. I am sure that all your experience with water tank models and building to larger sizes has given you the knowledge and comfort for building in bigger size. But when you compare my Cutty Sark at 1:78 scale, it's considered a Large scale model in the hobby and still quite a bit smaller than what you are familiar with. I am so happy that you have become a member here as you're experience has raised the bar on this forum to unheard of heights. I'm very excited that now I can see what I'm up against with my plans for the Great Republic. Hope I live long enough to build it. Ha! Please don't dawdle because I'm already 82 next Tuesday. Oh yes, I like chocolate cake the best. Norgale
PS: I see that just about all your wood work, at least at this stage, is plywood. I'm curious as to what grade you use and what thickness is that which you use for the hull framing? It looks to be very strong and that's what I would go for.
PS: I see that just about all your wood work, at least at this stage, is plywood. I'm curious as to what grade you use and what thickness is that which you use for the hull framing? It looks to be very strong and that's what I would go for.
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