DE 7 PROVINCIËN (1665) 1:50

I'm glad you choose this way of planking, The planking of the Wasa is somthing you do on A model like mine or Maarten. Accurate in a historical way. But building a model like this of yours, it's gonna be need to look just good and beautiful.
 
Love looking at your work Herman. Planking is looking very good. The wood's color is wonderfully warm. Is it completely untreated? Did you do any processing on it? It does not have that "raw" look. Maybe you steel wool it? Whatever, it looks great! Thumbsup As for the ship, she is a wonderfully plump girl, round and sturdy. All good things, but even to the untrained eye, she is not a French girl. ROTF Keep up the wonderful work sir!
 
Love looking at your work Herman. Planking is looking very good. The wood's color is wonderfully warm. Is it completely untreated? Did you do any processing on it? It does not have that "raw" look. Maybe you steel wool it? Whatever, it looks great! Thumbsup As for the ship, she is a wonderfully plump girl, round and sturdy. All good things, but even to the untrained eye, she is not a French girl. ROTF Keep up the wonderful work sir!

Thank you Ken
The wood itself is still untreated. The photo "in progress" shows how it looks when I have glued the planks to the hull and roughly filed them to match in height.
The further photo's show the planks after initial sanding and indeed a treatment with steel wool (both just to make it more presentable here).
When the planking is almost completed I will sand all planking of the hull down to the proper shape.
"Almost completed" in this case meaning before the keel and garboard strakes are installed, making it easier to do that sanding job without damaging the keel etc.

When all planking including the keel etc are completed the hull will be treated.
 
I echo everyone's statement Herman. Beautiful joinery. Did you already explain how you achieved such tight joints? Or would you?

Thank you.

Hi Ken. I will show how I make the joints. Nothing fancy, no jigs. I actually made a jig, but as the joinery on a Dutch vessel was uneven that would have turned out historically incorrect. The jig has not been used.

First make a plank fit to the adjacent plank and determine where a joint will be made (no joints directly next to each other). Draw the joint on the wood.
20231113_184548_resized.jpg

I use a scroll saw to cut the shape of the joint.
20231113_184739_resized.jpg

I then clean it up by file.
20231113_185348_resized.jpg

And copy this form to the next plank (prior to making the joint on that plank, it has been made to fit).
20231113_191131_resized.jpg

Use the scroll saw again (not my worst attempt I must say).
20231113_191327_resized.jpg

After some filing this is the result, looking good.
20231113_191459_resized.jpg

But only the angle and length are ok. I check it by pressing a plank to the joint, if there are gaps between the planks further work is needed.
20231113_191933_resized.jpg

After carefully filing the joint the result is acceptable.
20231113_192549_resized.jpg

So just a lot of simple handwork. One joint goes better than the other. If you take too much off, just move the joint a short distance and start over again. The plank will be somewhat shorter, but that is no problem building a Dutch vessel, no fixed dimensions.
 
Thank you all for visiting and your likes.

I forgot to mention that I sand away the pencil marks directly after using the scroll saw. The pencil line only distracts me from filing a straight line.
Generally I hold the wood up to the light or other contrasting background to determine if I am filing in a straight line. The same applies to checking the form of the planks. My workplace doesn't have the best lighting; still have to address that issue.
 
A BIG thank you Herman for your very detailed explanation! Quite a simple method. Free handed is even more impressive. I would imagine a hooked scarf joint could also be done the same way, although might take a little more time.

Thanks again!
 
Excellent work Herman. I found rough cutting the Scarph on the bandsaw then trimming the slope in a large machine vice with a Scalpel works for me, using the face of the vice jaws as my trimming guide.Dave Steven's covered this in one of his logs I find it the easiest way after trying all the others
 
Back
Top