Donnie's HMS Blandford Cross Section Build: 1/32 Scale [COMPLETED BUILD]

Kurt,
you need to start, we need more builders on this project. Just take one step at a time. REMEMBER, there are still a few little errors (typos) in the Bill of Materials. TAKE ALL YOUR WOOD measurements for BOM off the plans.
 
A lot of working today. Made the Pillars. Started out with a simple filing of square bar stock 'edges' to decorate it. Filing is not good - - is ok, but soft rounded corners is not what I want. Files really do not get a nice hard clean edge. . . So, over to the mill and to flatten each of the 4 corners of the square bar stock. Just eyeballed it for good appearance.

Then the Shotlocker had to have a square opening made at top and bottom. So, two Pillars were made for the Shotlocker. I have two more Pillars left to make.

It really does take extra concentration and care (at least it does for me) to make sure things line up sqaurely (withing reason of course).

Now, the pics. . .

ps. I really wanted to make a video of the Pillars on the Mill, but unless you have done this, it is really very much time consuming, then having to enlist the Admiral and she was in her quarters . . . . and you know the rest perhaps.

locker10.jpg

locker09.jpg

locker07.jpg

locker06.jpg

locker08.jpg​
 
Excellent work Donnie.Just one question around the hinged door on the shotlocker.If it is indeed one complete door,would the opening not be longer next to the post?The length of the opening vastly limits how much the door could be swung upwards

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Nigel,
I was not looking far into the future plans when the Pillar would be installed.
Of course, HA , I see now what you are talking about. Yes, I need to correct that. Excellent observations my friend. I never caught that until you show me. I need to make provisions to make that one lid become two.
Thank you very much for pointing that out !!!

Working on version 2.0
 
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Not the best, but I hope that it now looks like two separate lids. Also, added handles to the lids. Front trim piece needs little more attention to get rid of fibers and a little mishaps.

locker10-corrected.jpg​
 
Hmm... It does look much better, Donnie. But...if you don't mind, I am afraid, you may need now to add another pair of hinges. ;) The door with one hinge would be flimsy... (in real life). Obviously the final decision is yours.
 
Well, you are correct Jim. But, I must move on - the final assembly appearance should out weight a few missed hinges (at least that is my thoughts) - again, a lesson of learning scratch building. Besides, the blackening agent somehow has bled into the wood and it would be a total mess or a total redo of that entire hatch area just to make it all corrected.
 
Not too much to show here.
  • Shotlocker (was not glued in) and is now removed to install Thickstuff at second futtocks and first futtocks
  • Pillars (were not glued in) and is now removed to do the same with Thickstuff
  • I don't want all this to be in the way.
  • After Thickstuff is installed, then a lot of things will be installed all at one time. The Shotlocker, Pillars.
  • After that is one, then I will start on the lower deck planking. Not all deck will be planked.
  • After that, then the cistern pump and hatchways
  • At some point, I have to think about the inside bulwark planking on the lower deck.
X-Section removed from the jig and turned upside down. Also a shot of the final lower deck beams and all other parts associated with it. Glad that is done.

flooring12.jpg

LDF-21.jpg​
 
Latest. A few things. The somewhat nice Pillars taken down as they were the wrong length - so with that said, the Mill and Lathe shop are closed due to renovations. Therefore, the Pillars will have to do as just a plain square post. The Pillars have some Golden Oak stain on them.

Installed shot locker with all Pillars.
The first two images show that I used a piece of deck planking to check for trueness (flatness) across the frames and on the outside near the frames (ribs) as this is where the Spiketing will go and want to make sure it is flat and true.

So, here are the results:

LDF-22.jpg

LDF-23.jpg

LDF-24.jpg

LDF-25.jpg

LDF-26.jpg

LDF-27.jpg​
 
Donnie said:
Latest. A few things. The somewhat nice Pillars taken down as they were the wrong length - so with that said, the Mill and Lathe shop are closed due to renovations. Therefore, the Pillars will have to do as just a plain square post. The Pillars have some Golden Oak stain on them.

Installed shot locker with all Pillars.
The first two images show that I used a piece of deck planking to check for trueness (flatness) across the frames and on the outside near the frames (ribs) as this is where the Spiketing will go and want to make sure it is flat and true.

So, here are the results:

Click to expand...
Hi Donnie, you are making exceptionally good progress, don’t scrap the pillars you will be able to use them in the stern section.
 
Looking very good - only the one pillar is looking for me too strong from the cross section dimensions - it has the same width like the keel .......
 
Mike41 said:
Hi Donnie, you are making exceptionally good progress, don’t scrap the pillars you will be able to use them in the stern section.
Click to expand...

I agree with Mike! The pillars are very visible. Take the time to do more than just square timbers. The “wow” factor for the model overall is well worth the time and effort. Just my Two cents!
 
I know. Large and Mill are taken out of shop as I am adding more work bench space.
I appreciate all the comments and suggestions and are all taken well. Uwe, I realize I did not place a lot of attention to Pillars. Shame on me. I know.
Knut. Thanks. I am putting my energy into the very basics. I do not want to get burned out on too many details. Also reason that I decided not to trenail and bolt my frames.
Next is:
Chain pump
Chain pump cranks
Hatchways
A few Deck planks for minimal coverage
Spirketing
Mast
 
Donnie, how big a gap did you have on original pillars?

If not too wide could you not just add a minor ship to topside of pillar where it is not real visible under the deck frame to fill the gaps?

It would allow you to use your current nicely shaped pillars as intended.
 
Good idea. Well. It’s done now.
well, actually, the outside pillars #1 and #9 position can be removed easily if I want to dress them up some.
this scratch build is like baby steps for me as I am more likely to do another scratch if I do not get a bad experience. Next time, I can do it better and put more detail. Also factor in a tad bit of impatience.;)
 
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