Donnie's HMS Blandford Cross Section Build: 1/32 Scale [COMPLETED BUILD]

Yep, you probably need to get one. I suggest Sherline, but others like the proxxon. Many on the market now to choose from. Even Micro-Mark has a 16" C-to-C as well as Harbor Freight.

This next part is debatable as even the AOTS Blandford book seems to have some discrepancies about the exact location. Mike calls for the pump to be located at station Frame #6 which if this is the case, then the output port of the pump will pass through the frame. The AOTS has the pump output port passing somewhat in-between frames. Which IF this is the case, then the pump will be located in such a manner that it will interfere with the hatchways and other things.

EDIT: I AM RELOCATING THE OUTPUT PORT OF CHAIN PUMP - IT IS NOT CORRECT.


chain-pump-08.jpg​
 
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Donnie, is it just the angle of photos or does the top of chain pump have one side straight vertical and the one shown with drain tube slanted out at bottom?
 
The chain pump itself is symmetrical. The drain tube does slant downward so it is just angle of camera. The chain pump does have an angle to it and I can take a straight on shot tomorrow.
 
Donnie said:
This next part is debatable as even the AOTS Blandford book seems to have some discrepancies about the exact location. Mike calls for the pump to be located at station Frame #6 which if this is the case, then the output port of the pump will pass through the frame. The AOTS has the pump output port passing somewhat in-between frames. Which IF this is the case, then the pump will be located in such a manner that it will interfere with the hatchways and other things.
So, with that being said, I know I am going to get the criticisms as this part, I do not know much of what I am doing on this part.
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I do not want to criticise you..... but you are absolutely right with your debate.
I think, that the contemporary shipwrights would not weakening the frame structure, which is important for the stiffness of the ship and protection against cannon balls, with cutting a notch for the dewatering, if they can put the pipe also between the frames
Unbenannt.JPG
From the historic technical point of view I guess that AOTS is correct....
 
Donnie said:
Yep, you probably need to get one. I suggest Sherline, but others like the proxxon. Many on the market now to choose from. Even Micro-Mark has a 16" C-to-C as well as Harbor Freight.

This next part is debatable as even the AOTS Blandford book seems to have some discrepancies about the exact location. Mike calls for the pump to be located at station Frame #6 which if this is the case, then the output port of the pump will pass through the frame. The AOTS has the pump output port passing somewhat in-between frames. Which IF this is the case, then the pump will be located in such a manner that it will interfere with the hatchways and other things.
So, with that being said, I know I am going to get the criticisms as this part, I do not know much of what I am doing on this part.
Now, since the output port has a hole for water drainage, I had to use my 4-way adjustable chuck to hone in on the exact center of the square rod as the rod is an odd shape.
The paper template worked well as I did not have to do that much shaping, but I did want to have one continuous square rod to pass all the way through. So, I am ready for all the 'you did it wrong" comments. It is what it is.
So, there is no way in heck they punched a hole in the frame to let this pump port pass through. I guess in the long run, it WILL be covered up.

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Hi Donnie,

The Blandford book shows the exact location of the chain pump scupper, a timber block is shown where the scupper passes through a frame on page 40. By using the timber block the structural integrity of the framing would not be weaker.

The framing distribution shown in the book is one double and two single frames and was simplified for this exercise. I did not think the hull penetrations would be a problem. You did a good job going thru the frame, the experience may be useful in future projects.
 
OK, before I redo all of this, I am confused. The whole time I was doing this, I was thinking that passing the pump output through the frame was not right and not a good idea. So, should I leave it or redo it so pump port will pass in between frames? Please advise because I am leaning towards Uwe. The AOTS book does show it passing in-between. I have NOT done the other side yet. But, yet I also do not want to make any enemies here by favoring one person's idea over another.
 
I’d leave it as it is, Donnie! As Mike said, the framing was simplified and stylized for this build, and there is no other place to locate the chain pump housing. The dales need to be straight to look right, so I’d go with what you have. I did the same. Only a major-league “picker-of-nits“ would criticize you.
 
Donnie, do you have a reference source where to order the AOTS of Blandford.

It would be a good read as I start the building when I get my frames done.
 
To Uwek , I do see that reference in the book of how the dales pass in between the frames. However, now to add to the discrepancies, I went back and viewed the AOTS very carefully and there are discrepancies there. The one thing that I notice is that the frames are very close to each other. A very small gap between the frames.
However, if I were to defend Mike's viewpoint, one of the pages in the AOTS book also shows that the Dale Scupper does in fact pass through HALF of the DOUBLE frame.
HOWEVER, the discrepancy is in fact that according to the image that Uwe supplies does in fact show the pump dale scupper passing in-between the frames.
So, my decision is probably going to be based on where will the Chain pump be located. Even if I were to leave the scupper located in the frame as I have it (it is still in the incorrect place). If I were to do it according to the AOTS frame layout, then the scupper hole should only be on the one-HALF frame and not in the middle of the frame.
Conclusion: The Blandford was a model solely intended for beginners to have an exercise in a scratch building. It originally was not intended to be for a show-room experience. However, there are those that cannot resist and must make the most out of the model and I applaud them as they have much more experience than I do. I knew going into this thing I was going to do some stupid things. So, it is what it is. It seems that for SIMPLICITY that Mike's frames are not nearly "compressed" as the absolute original. It is hard to tell where one frameset ends and the other set begins as there seems to be a very small gap between the frames as it is.

So, therefore, I shall show the other discrepancy of the book below and I will take it from here - error or no error. I must continue on with the build and not get obsessed over this one thing (which is easy for me to do)

pump-dale-scupper.jpg

So, therefore back to my original plan (even though it might be wrong)

chain-pump-09.jpg

chain-pump-10.jpg
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Donnie said:
OK, before I redo all of this, I am confused. The whole time I was doing this, I was thinking that passing the pump output through the frame was not right and not a good idea. So, should I leave it or redo it so pump port will pass in between frames? Please advise because I am leaning towards Uwe. The AOTS book does show it passing in-between. I have NOT done the other side yet. But, yet I also do not want to make any enemies here by favoring one person's idea over another.
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I would leave it also like it is now..... due to the change in the framing it will be not possible in a different way.
It was also not my intention, that you should change it, it was more a comment in principle, about historical correctness (subjective according my opinion and partly knowledge)
Often we have to make compromises building models, especially if they are not designed exactly like the originals.....
Sorry also to all other - it was not my intention to make critic comments on anybody - I appologice for zhis
(sorry also for my bad english in saying "sorry".....)
 
Uwe,
please, no need for apologies. Your criticism is exactly what I was needing and thinking about structural integrity. I accept your comments 100% open ----However, I have decided to just leave the matter at hand and press on to finish the build. All of this is just a learning exercise. The model will never make it on display anywhere other than my office or home. By that time, I would have moved on to another project with more issues to overcome !!!
 
Donnie said:
Uwe,
please, no need for apologies. Your criticism is exactly what I was needing and thinking about structural integrity. I accept your comments 100% open ----However, I have decided to just leave the matter at hand and press on to finish the build. All of this is just a learning exercise. The model will never make it on display anywhere other than my office or home. By that time, I would have moved on to another project with more issues to overcome !!!
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But you should put your model on display - it is a very accurate and clean work
 
Thanks, Bookfinder.com showed quite a selection once I narrowed down the name. I believe the correct title is "The 20-gun Ship Blandford (AOTS)", I started with Blandford AOTS and then just Blandford and it popped up!

Now to get it ordered and wait on the postman to deliver.
 
The debate on what is correct the plan or the book AOTS, and the stated purpose of the group build as Donnie stated is a training exercise, brings back the old TV and Radio test of US National Emergency Warning System, "This is a test, and only a test, if this was real, you would be directed to local station" or in our case, you would build to more correct plans, I guess.

I am all for learning the easy way if you can call this project easy, compared to more complex frames shown in the AOTS. I want to thank Mike and group for the KISS approach to learning scratch building.
 
I don't think anyone is understating Mike's accomplishment with this plan. I think we all understand why the framing was handled as it was. But don't be deceived! This is not a "newbie" project. If you've never build a wooden ship model in your life, you will likely fail if you start with the Blandford section. There is plenty here to keep even the most experienced builder challenged...and you can always add more detailing as your skill level allows. But following Mike's excellent plans will allow the first time scratch builder, who's built a couple of wooden ship models, to produce a beautiful model he or she can be proud of!
 
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