I love CAD, I use it for so much stuff. I find it's quicker then doing the trig
Donnie's HMS Blandford Cross Section Build: 1/32 Scale [COMPLETED BUILD]
here is the latest. Installation of the Keelson. I am waiting for the wood to do the footwaling and strakes. I am getting nervous about the footwailing and strakes installation. There is something about my keelson I am unsettled about.
The thickness of the keelson at position #9 is a little thicker than position #1. Now, this can be remedied by sanding. -BUT-
I was perplexed as to how to maintain a nice bevel all the way through and then trying to follow the curve of the hull at the floor. So, I just cut the bevel all the way down on one flat side and I SHAPED the bottom of the Keelson to follow the curve of the floor. Probably NOT the way to do things. It is what it is as they say.
I had some nice brass nails to use as bolts. Soaked them in Brass Black. Not a good idea - black stuff wants to flake off everywhere. I turned to the toothpicks and soaked them in Provincial Stain Minwax. I then cut to length and used a nail setter to set the treenails slightly below the surface of the keelson. Not the best, but it has to do. This is not going to be the center of attention anyways.
Yes, the Keelson lacks about .5mm from perfect alignment flush on the front as well as back. Too bad, I am not cutting another Keeson -
The thickness of the keelson at position #9 is a little thicker than position #1. Now, this can be remedied by sanding. -BUT-
I was perplexed as to how to maintain a nice bevel all the way through and then trying to follow the curve of the hull at the floor. So, I just cut the bevel all the way down on one flat side and I SHAPED the bottom of the Keelson to follow the curve of the floor. Probably NOT the way to do things. It is what it is as they say.
I had some nice brass nails to use as bolts. Soaked them in Brass Black. Not a good idea - black stuff wants to flake off everywhere. I turned to the toothpicks and soaked them in Provincial Stain Minwax. I then cut to length and used a nail setter to set the treenails slightly below the surface of the keelson. Not the best, but it has to do. This is not going to be the center of attention anyways.
Yes, the Keelson lacks about .5mm from perfect alignment flush on the front as well as back. Too bad, I am not cutting another Keeson -
Well done!
I just received my next installment of lumber from Dave at the Lumberyard. The shipment includes the lumber to make the Shotlocker and all the footwailing / flooring. All the lumber came bundled individually according to size. All I did was label the bundles to keep track of what they are used for.
Thank you Dave !!!
Here is an image (the labels are mine to keep track of what I have)
Thank you Dave !!!
Here is an image (the labels are mine to keep track of what I have)
Onward with the part that I was worried about - so far - so good I guess. What an evening trying to cut those angles. I hate angles. But, I think I found some hopeful numbers. The main cuts were setup on table saw as 17.5 °
I had to make a fence that was also 17.5 ° so that I could accomplish another complex angle cut. The point is that I think my system worked. Here is just a series of photos that I tried to show my progression.
1. Cut a simple Rabbet on outside limber strakes. I just placed the board back on saw to demonstrate the clearance cut.
2. The two boards cut and just setting there not glued in.
3. This is the first 17.5 ° angle cut of another limber board that will set up against the rabbet cut board.
4a. This is the same board flipped to complete the complex angles. I made a "Fence board" to use as a guide.
Getting really nervous hoping this works. Masking tape used to hold plank to examine the pre-cut
4b. Same board, just showing a different view. Masking tape used to hold plank to examine the pre-cut
4c. Making the cut.
5. Finishing with a final angle on opposite side of the plank to complete all the angles.
6. Dry fitting the parts with NO glue yet. This is the best that I can do and I am happy with it.
Thank goodness I am finished with this part. LOL !!!
I had to make a fence that was also 17.5 ° so that I could accomplish another complex angle cut. The point is that I think my system worked. Here is just a series of photos that I tried to show my progression.
1. Cut a simple Rabbet on outside limber strakes. I just placed the board back on saw to demonstrate the clearance cut.
Getting really nervous hoping this works. Masking tape used to hold plank to examine the pre-cut
It looks great! Worth the effort.
I deleted a previous post as I thought I had installed the Limberboards and Strakes in the wrong order. But as it turns out, somehow I guess it is either my mind is playing tricks on me or who knows. It seems that I do have the timbers in the correct fashion. It could be that one of the boards I used for the Strakes (from the stock) might have been maybe 1/64 less - + a little sanding to remove the burs from the brass bolts - all in all - who knows. I am moving onward.
The latest - continuing installing Strakes and Footwailing I am using a plank on the Strake to keep the Strake from marring from the clamps. ( Clamps bought from Micromark.com)
So, the Micro-Mark clamps are good, but the base has a rather large round base that would not allow the clamp to fit in between the Frames. So, I turned to the Mill to mill a flat on each side. This needed to be done anyways.
Also, the long T-bar handles need to be shortened as well. The metal was some type of cast iron alloy.
A bench grinder probably would have done just as good. But, this makes for a nice flat parallel surface that is uniform. I had to do about 10 of these clamps.
Also, the long T-bar handles need to be shortened as well. The metal was some type of cast iron alloy.
A bench grinder probably would have done just as good. But, this makes for a nice flat parallel surface that is uniform. I had to do about 10 of these clamps.
A mill is a wonderful tool to have!
Yes Dave, completely agree! But...most important is - to know how to use it.
When I got my lathe and Mill, I knew nothing. Lots of reading to understand the nature of this equipment. Main point to always remember. Remove small amounts of material at one pass. Never try to "hog' down a mill or cutting tool.
Hogging is same as bogging down your machine. I usually take .25mm passes at stuff depending on material and what I am doing.
More later.
Hogging is same as bogging down your machine. I usually take .25mm passes at stuff depending on material and what I am doing.
More later.
Nice work Donnie!
These might be considered your first books on hobby type machining and is available at Micromark, eBay and any other outlet. I think the Sherline still offers this first book free with a lathe or mill purchase. Joe Martin founded Sherline. Some might find some of the information too simple. This was my go-to book to learn. I did find some core principles that help me to understand machining as a whole. For instance, he demonstrated a step by step approach as to how to mill a cube to make sure all 6 sides are square.
Now, what I like about this book is that he has projects at the end. One project I made that was a RIGHT ANGLE plate, I still use that all the time as this is how I make sure my MILL VISE is set up to 90° and I also use it for other things too.
It is not like any other "right Angle' as it has a slot groove milled on one edge that jams up against other workpieces to make sure you are at a true 90° setup.
With both of these books, it covers just about anything you would need to know to get started.
Now, what I like about this book is that he has projects at the end. One project I made that was a RIGHT ANGLE plate, I still use that all the time as this is how I make sure my MILL VISE is set up to 90° and I also use it for other things too.
It is not like any other "right Angle' as it has a slot groove milled on one edge that jams up against other workpieces to make sure you are at a true 90° setup.
With both of these books, it covers just about anything you would need to know to get started.
what kind of saw blade is that? I like all the teeth and it looks like it cuts a thin kerf.
I think that is .045 kerf - 168 tooth blade - 3” diameter for the micro mark table saw.