Donnie's HMS Blandford Cross Section Build: 1/32 Scale [COMPLETED BUILD]

Someone had made mention about the sanding wheel burning cause a problem with gluing - I went back to some post, and I am overlooking who wrote that - my apologies for not responding. I could not tell at all if the burning had any effect on the glue joint. The joint seems to be just like the other ones that I made. The joint held up under the spindle sander (for the one-half frame) so, if it holds up under those conditions, it should be good.
 
don't have to worry about the burnt joints Donnie. If they were straight butt joints it might be a problem, but with the 2 layers of framework, and staggered butt joints the wood will have to fail before the glue joint does. If you look at a section of wood that has been burnt, you'll see the burnt edge has a glass like glaze to it. With a straight butt joint, the glue will fail on that glazed edge, with pressure. I've never tested the pounds of pressure, but I'm sure its well over 10 lbs pulling force.

Jeff
 
My burned edges on the first frame were just due from lack of experience on the drum sander. I now know how to work with it. I start the piece at the outer edge of the drum sander wheel and slide the piece towards the center of the wheel. This keeps the piece from staying in one place (therefore), no more wood burning.
 
Adding the fourth frame and making sure things are still square. The fourth frame at floor looks like it is about .5 mm or 1/32 off (lower) and a small shim can take care of that and is no problem. To me, this is the foundation and the better it is true and straight, the rest of it should be in alignment with not many problems trying to force things to fit.

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donfarr said:
mill bit that you suggested can the fit in a dremel tool for the shank size
Click to expand...

Don - based on the part number Donnie used, it looks like an 1/8" shank on that mill. So, if your dremel has a collet that can handle 1/8" the answer would be yes, but don't expect to get the kind of precision Donnie is getting with a simple dremel setup.
 
I agree mike I will show you the type of mill that i got it is a mini-mill, like the proxon mf70, almost the same price, it is ALL METAL, has a great Z axis witch is one of the reasons i got it, the other is for very low cost it can be use4d as a drill press, or a lathe, it is by VANDA-LAY PRODUCTS, yo do have to be careful when you mill can not take to much off at one time witch is why i do the notches for my Le rochefort in the way i will show on my building log tomorrow. COMMENTS PLEASE. THANKS Don
 
Hi Donnie,

On most scratch builds the frames are left a little long on top until they are all installed, the finished height is taken from the elevation drawing and marked with a continuous line and the frames are trimmed to the final height. This gives you a firm foundation for the rails.
 
Donnie, I see that the posts and pictures are placed more to the right and are somewhat smaller here than before.
Should this be so for posterity?
Or will you change the layout so that the posts cover the entire width as it was before ?.
Knut-
 
Norway said:
Donnie, I see that the posts and pictures are placed more to the right and are somewhat smaller here than before.
Should this be so for posterity?
Or will you change the layout so that the posts cover the entire width as it was before ?.
Knut-
Click to expand...
In this group the layout is this,I don’t think can be changed,basically everything is the same,you post the same way
 
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