Thanks Gary.
Don
Don
Don's Santisima Trinidad by OcCre
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- occre santisima trinidad
Hello Don,Many thanks for the well explained gun port tutorial,your system would on other models like the San Felipe.??and others,Secondly your ST is being very neatly built,obviously with a great deal of thought,helpful to the learners,Gary,Don,Yourself and some others are much being appreciated,thanks to all for your helpfulness,following your build,Edwin.
Edwin,
Thank you so much for your kind words. This hobby has been a Godsend for me. It has kept my mind and hands active. I believe anything worth doing should be worth doing well or as well as you can do.
My goal besides building the ST has been to share even the simple things that a beginner, like myself, have run into. I figure if it is a problem for me, it must be a problem for others. If I can resolve it for myself, perhaps it would be helpful for others.
Your are correct. The method I used for correcting the placement of the gun ports will work on any ship. As I said, above all things the cannon must sit on the deck. The rest just fell into place.
Thanks again.
Don
Thank you so much for your kind words. This hobby has been a Godsend for me. It has kept my mind and hands active. I believe anything worth doing should be worth doing well or as well as you can do.
My goal besides building the ST has been to share even the simple things that a beginner, like myself, have run into. I figure if it is a problem for me, it must be a problem for others. If I can resolve it for myself, perhaps it would be helpful for others.
Your are correct. The method I used for correcting the placement of the gun ports will work on any ship. As I said, above all things the cannon must sit on the deck. The rest just fell into place.
Thanks again.
Don
:greetings-clapyellow:
Very Well Done Don. Very impressive.
Donnie
Very Well Done Don. Very impressive.
Donnie
Hi All,
Well, here is the other side of the ST. I am HAPPY!!!!!
I am now cutting out the main deck ports. Once that is done, clear the way for the keel and then on to the scratch build of the stern.
I am giving some serious thought to making a stand for the ship. I am also giving some consideration on the painting and plating of the hull. The lower hull must be smooth so the plating will stick and stay stuck to it. I am thinking the upper hull should be fairly smooth also so the paint will have a uniform appearance.
Anyway these are things to ponder while I finish the upper ports and keel prep.
Later,
Don
Well, here is the other side of the ST. I am HAPPY!!!!!
I am now cutting out the main deck ports. Once that is done, clear the way for the keel and then on to the scratch build of the stern.
I am giving some serious thought to making a stand for the ship. I am also giving some consideration on the painting and plating of the hull. The lower hull must be smooth so the plating will stick and stay stuck to it. I am thinking the upper hull should be fairly smooth also so the paint will have a uniform appearance.
Anyway these are things to ponder while I finish the upper ports and keel prep.
Later,
Don
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Thanks Popeye.
I think I could open cannon ports in my sleep now.
Later,
Don
I think I could open cannon ports in my sleep now.
Later,
Don
I can certainly relate to that. This is going to be an outstanding ship when completed...I can tell.
Donnie
Donnie
Thanks Donnie.
With the Dremel, it was not as hard as I thought it would be. The main deck I had to cut with an x-acto but even that went fairly fast. My hands did cramp up some though.
Well, the time has come. I am ready to do the scratch build on the stern. I am doing a little more research and playing with the galleries on the sides. I will end up making the top and bottom pieces out of wood also. The lead ones I have are pretty jacked as well.
I have found the key to this is the deck placement. As with the cannon, if you know where the decks are, the rest of it falls into place.
I also found the stern guns were lower than I had expected. I will double... triple check this with the water line before I cut them out. I have lined them up with the 1st battery cannon and the top of the port lines up prefectly with the lower side of the planks that curve under the galleries.
Anyway, I will take a picture of it when it is done. For now I am trying the get my thinking wrapped around the galleries.
Later,
Don
With the Dremel, it was not as hard as I thought it would be. The main deck I had to cut with an x-acto but even that went fairly fast. My hands did cramp up some though.
Well, the time has come. I am ready to do the scratch build on the stern. I am doing a little more research and playing with the galleries on the sides. I will end up making the top and bottom pieces out of wood also. The lead ones I have are pretty jacked as well.
I have found the key to this is the deck placement. As with the cannon, if you know where the decks are, the rest of it falls into place.
I also found the stern guns were lower than I had expected. I will double... triple check this with the water line before I cut them out. I have lined them up with the 1st battery cannon and the top of the port lines up prefectly with the lower side of the planks that curve under the galleries.
Anyway, I will take a picture of it when it is done. For now I am trying the get my thinking wrapped around the galleries.
Later,
Don
Edwin,
Thanks again for your support and kind words.
Later,
Don
Thanks again for your support and kind words.
Later,
Don
Hi there,
Section 3 – Stern Decking
The first thing I did besides a lot of thinking about the final appearance of the stern was to mark where the decks would be on the sides of the hull. As I found with the cannon ports, knowledge of the deck placement is critical.
The next step is to try to get a better visualization of the stern with the decks. On the OcCre model, only two decks are visible after the stern has been cut. The 1st, 2nd and 3rd battery decks do not exist in this kit. In this scratch build, the 1st battery deck will not be installed. Only the four stern cannon for that battery will be added. The 2nd and 3rd decks will be added.
Using an index card, I made a mockup of the 2nd and 3rd level decks. One of the big issues I had was the windows that face the edge of the ship when looking in.
It turns out not to be a problem if you (or I in this case) plan on allowing the deck to wrap around to the quarter galleries. As I understand it, there was an opening that would allow one to look around the edge of the ship and forward into the quarter gallery.
The other thing I discovered was the amount of the balcony extension off the back plane of the ship must be equal at all deck levels to maintain the proper angle of the stern plate. I discovered this when I put in the 2nd level deck. For this build, I estimated the balcony platform was 6’ at the center of the stern and tapering down to about 3’ at the outer edges. This is very close to the curvature allowed by the kit.
Now that I have this information, my next step is to install the decks for the stern and the quarter galleries. Once completed, I will determine what, if anything, I will do on the detailing of the quarters. That will depend largely on the size of the windows. If they are large enough, then I will try some wall details and furniture. If the windows turn out to be the size of those of the kit, there is little point to go into that level of detail. No one would ever see it and only I would know it was there.
Later,
Don
Section 3 – Stern Decking
The first thing I did besides a lot of thinking about the final appearance of the stern was to mark where the decks would be on the sides of the hull. As I found with the cannon ports, knowledge of the deck placement is critical.
The next step is to try to get a better visualization of the stern with the decks. On the OcCre model, only two decks are visible after the stern has been cut. The 1st, 2nd and 3rd battery decks do not exist in this kit. In this scratch build, the 1st battery deck will not be installed. Only the four stern cannon for that battery will be added. The 2nd and 3rd decks will be added.
Using an index card, I made a mockup of the 2nd and 3rd level decks. One of the big issues I had was the windows that face the edge of the ship when looking in.
It turns out not to be a problem if you (or I in this case) plan on allowing the deck to wrap around to the quarter galleries. As I understand it, there was an opening that would allow one to look around the edge of the ship and forward into the quarter gallery.
The other thing I discovered was the amount of the balcony extension off the back plane of the ship must be equal at all deck levels to maintain the proper angle of the stern plate. I discovered this when I put in the 2nd level deck. For this build, I estimated the balcony platform was 6’ at the center of the stern and tapering down to about 3’ at the outer edges. This is very close to the curvature allowed by the kit.
Now that I have this information, my next step is to install the decks for the stern and the quarter galleries. Once completed, I will determine what, if anything, I will do on the detailing of the quarters. That will depend largely on the size of the windows. If they are large enough, then I will try some wall details and furniture. If the windows turn out to be the size of those of the kit, there is little point to go into that level of detail. No one would ever see it and only I would know it was there.
Later,
Don
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Don: there is a lot of items that we put in ships because we want to do it right and know that it is there if anyone were to look. A flashlight may be needed, but most people would not even care. You are building the ship for you. Do what makes you happy and proud. Sometimes it is just nice to be able to say, "I even made sure that the captain had his chair in the captain's cabin."
Gary,
Amen to that. My goal is to do it as right as I can but at the same time not to get too crazy with it. The other part of this departure from the kit is to let anyone that is interested know what I did and why.
Thanks
Don
Amen to that. My goal is to do it as right as I can but at the same time not to get too crazy with it. The other part of this departure from the kit is to let anyone that is interested know what I did and why.
Thanks
Don
Section 3 – Stern Decking (continued)
Hello Mates,
If you remember, I made a mockup of the 1st and 2nd battery decks to get an idea of what the stern might look like. Now I know and am ready to move forward.
The first thing is to finish filing the stern opening.
I am starting with the 1st battery deck. Make a real pattern that fits the deck precisely. Make sure that the part of the deck that will fit to the quarter gallery deck sticks out farther than necessary. Then cut out the pattern. Trace the shape onto whatever material you choose to use for the new deck. My choice is 3/32” birch plywood.
Cut out the new deck. In my case I used a 16” scroll saw by Allwin. I am using a jeweler’s blade in the jig saw to cut the wood. It is very thin (just under 1/32" thick) and cuts though the wood easily without splintering. When cutting out the deck, do not cut on the line. Cut maybe a 1/16” to 1/32” away from the line. This will give you some wiggle room to make adjustments.
Next cut the deck in half. You will find you have to do this because you cannot install it any other way. Mark an “X” on each piece to signify the top side of the deck. Now carefully file or sand each half until it fits to the inner side of the hull. Make sure you know where the center of the stern is. You do not want to adjust the deck half to where it exposes the center line of the stern otherwise you will end up with a gap between the halves.
When you are done, insert the halves to see if they fit. If they do, you are done except for cleaning up the end of the deck plus matching the end wings of the deck to the contour of the hull.
One other point. When checking the fit, make sure the deck sits slightly lower than the deck line you drew on the side of the hull. That way when you install the deck planking, the deck will line up properly with deck lines on the hull.
I have not cleaned this up yet. The plan is to have the quarter gallery decks butt up to the stern deck. This will give the appearance of being one piece.
When you are totally satisfied with the fit, glue the deck into place. You have the choice of planking it before or after you install the deck.
My next step is to verify the fit. Then make and install the two quarter gallery decks. When done, I will move on to the 2nd battery deck. There will be more pictures to come as I proceed.
Later,
Don
Hello Mates,
If you remember, I made a mockup of the 1st and 2nd battery decks to get an idea of what the stern might look like. Now I know and am ready to move forward.
The first thing is to finish filing the stern opening.
I am starting with the 1st battery deck. Make a real pattern that fits the deck precisely. Make sure that the part of the deck that will fit to the quarter gallery deck sticks out farther than necessary. Then cut out the pattern. Trace the shape onto whatever material you choose to use for the new deck. My choice is 3/32” birch plywood.
Cut out the new deck. In my case I used a 16” scroll saw by Allwin. I am using a jeweler’s blade in the jig saw to cut the wood. It is very thin (just under 1/32" thick) and cuts though the wood easily without splintering. When cutting out the deck, do not cut on the line. Cut maybe a 1/16” to 1/32” away from the line. This will give you some wiggle room to make adjustments.
Next cut the deck in half. You will find you have to do this because you cannot install it any other way. Mark an “X” on each piece to signify the top side of the deck. Now carefully file or sand each half until it fits to the inner side of the hull. Make sure you know where the center of the stern is. You do not want to adjust the deck half to where it exposes the center line of the stern otherwise you will end up with a gap between the halves.
When you are done, insert the halves to see if they fit. If they do, you are done except for cleaning up the end of the deck plus matching the end wings of the deck to the contour of the hull.
One other point. When checking the fit, make sure the deck sits slightly lower than the deck line you drew on the side of the hull. That way when you install the deck planking, the deck will line up properly with deck lines on the hull.
I have not cleaned this up yet. The plan is to have the quarter gallery decks butt up to the stern deck. This will give the appearance of being one piece.
When you are totally satisfied with the fit, glue the deck into place. You have the choice of planking it before or after you install the deck.
My next step is to verify the fit. Then make and install the two quarter gallery decks. When done, I will move on to the 2nd battery deck. There will be more pictures to come as I proceed.
Later,
Don
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Popeye,
Thanks !!! I am surprised already. I am surprised I am even doing this. I did the planking on the 1st battery deck last night and it looks like it has always been there. I will do the quarter gallery decking today and glue it all in place. It is strange to know that my estimate for a 6' foot deck extension for the balcony is wrong. I did some measurements on the Naval Museum drawings and found the deck was only 3' to 4' deep. So I have made that adjustment also.
One thing I have learned when doing a scratch addition, you have to stay flexible. Everytime I think I have it all figured out, something will pops up that causes me to change my plan or design. I find myself thinking two to three steps ahead all the time now but it is still fun and I am satisfied with the results.
Thanks again,
Don
Thanks !!! I am surprised already. I am surprised I am even doing this. I did the planking on the 1st battery deck last night and it looks like it has always been there. I will do the quarter gallery decking today and glue it all in place. It is strange to know that my estimate for a 6' foot deck extension for the balcony is wrong. I did some measurements on the Naval Museum drawings and found the deck was only 3' to 4' deep. So I have made that adjustment also.
One thing I have learned when doing a scratch addition, you have to stay flexible. Everytime I think I have it all figured out, something will pops up that causes me to change my plan or design. I find myself thinking two to three steps ahead all the time now but it is still fun and I am satisfied with the results.
Thanks again,
Don
Thinking three steps ahead is the only way to help avoid frustration and excessive rework.
Section 3 – Stern Decking (continued)
Hello,
Ok, I now have the 1st battery deck permanently installed and planked. I had to make some modifications to the quarter galley deck because the stern has been extended out for the balcony. This forced me to modify the gallery deck by extended it out also.
In the original kit, there are three wooden forms that are glued to the hull. These are used to form the shape of the quarter gallery. There is also a planking strip that is glue to the hull at the bow end of the gallery forms. The forms are then covered with strips of wood, eventually sanded to shape and then covered with the items that make it look like it has windows, etc.
For the scratch build this is not necessary. The gallery decks will take the place of the forms and the windows, etc will be fashioned by hand. For the 1st battery gallery deck, I used the original form for that level as my pattern. If you recall, I marked the hull where the decks would be for the quarter galleries. I added to this the width of the planking strip that would have been added in the original build. Then I measured the distance from that mark to the end of the stern deck. This measurement will be the new length of the form/deck. Using my 3/32” plywood, I traced the shape of the original form. Then I added the difference between the original form and the measurement I took to the stern end of the pattern.
I cut this out using the jig saw. Sanded it to the proper shape and then used it for the pattern for the deck on the other side of the ship.
Once these pieced were shaped, the two inner deck pieces were planked and installed. Making the final adjustments for the quarter galleries decks, those pieces were installed and then planked.
Here is a shot of the stern looking at it from the bottom side. You can see how the four pieces fit together.
Here are some shots look at the stern for the top.
The 2nd battery deck will be made in the same manner as the one I just completed. I will be working on that for the next few days.
Later,
Don
Hello,
Ok, I now have the 1st battery deck permanently installed and planked. I had to make some modifications to the quarter galley deck because the stern has been extended out for the balcony. This forced me to modify the gallery deck by extended it out also.
In the original kit, there are three wooden forms that are glued to the hull. These are used to form the shape of the quarter gallery. There is also a planking strip that is glue to the hull at the bow end of the gallery forms. The forms are then covered with strips of wood, eventually sanded to shape and then covered with the items that make it look like it has windows, etc.
For the scratch build this is not necessary. The gallery decks will take the place of the forms and the windows, etc will be fashioned by hand. For the 1st battery gallery deck, I used the original form for that level as my pattern. If you recall, I marked the hull where the decks would be for the quarter galleries. I added to this the width of the planking strip that would have been added in the original build. Then I measured the distance from that mark to the end of the stern deck. This measurement will be the new length of the form/deck. Using my 3/32” plywood, I traced the shape of the original form. Then I added the difference between the original form and the measurement I took to the stern end of the pattern.
I cut this out using the jig saw. Sanded it to the proper shape and then used it for the pattern for the deck on the other side of the ship.
Once these pieced were shaped, the two inner deck pieces were planked and installed. Making the final adjustments for the quarter galleries decks, those pieces were installed and then planked.
Here is a shot of the stern looking at it from the bottom side. You can see how the four pieces fit together.
Here are some shots look at the stern for the top.
The 2nd battery deck will be made in the same manner as the one I just completed. I will be working on that for the next few days.
Later,
Don
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Thanks Anguirel,
No real good reason not to put tile on the floors. I have found nothing on the cabin configurations. From what I did find, she was damaged pretty badly in the stern during her last encounter before Trafalgar. There was some speculation they might not have had the time to do more than general repairs, add more guns and get her ready for Trafalgar.
I still have the time to add furniture and tile. My goal for the moment is to get the decks installed and planked. Even if the cabins were tiled, it would have been tiled over the planks.
My biggest concern is the windows. The Crespo drawings don't fit when scaled and the kit windows seems very small. I am close to having the decks finished. When that is done, I can then figure out what I want to do with the windows. Once I have that figured out, then I can decide on the furniture and tile.
I am new at this (my first build). With the lack of details and my experience, I need to think though each step. Determine what makes sense, how it might look and so on.
Anyway, thanks again. Sorry I could not answer your questions better.
Later,
Don
No real good reason not to put tile on the floors. I have found nothing on the cabin configurations. From what I did find, she was damaged pretty badly in the stern during her last encounter before Trafalgar. There was some speculation they might not have had the time to do more than general repairs, add more guns and get her ready for Trafalgar.
I still have the time to add furniture and tile. My goal for the moment is to get the decks installed and planked. Even if the cabins were tiled, it would have been tiled over the planks.
My biggest concern is the windows. The Crespo drawings don't fit when scaled and the kit windows seems very small. I am close to having the decks finished. When that is done, I can then figure out what I want to do with the windows. Once I have that figured out, then I can decide on the furniture and tile.
I am new at this (my first build). With the lack of details and my experience, I need to think though each step. Determine what makes sense, how it might look and so on.
Anyway, thanks again. Sorry I could not answer your questions better.
Later,
Don