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And a first aid kit...
Esping in 1:64 scale [COMPLETED BUILD]
- Thread starter dockattner
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Exceptional modeling. And as far as the mislocated frames go; who's going to tell?
Thank you kindly, friends, for the encouragement and likes.
I discovered another framing error before I went to bed last night. The straight pieces that sit on the flat floor of the boat between the curved frames should be thinner than (about half the height of) the frames.
I am growing in my appreciation for what it takes to do accurate scratch construction. You cannot just look at one drawing if there are other drawings of the same area of the ship from another orientation. I was only using the overhead view and neglected the side view. That seems obvious now but apparently wasn't obvious to me three days ago. Careful study of ALL available information is necessary.
I realize how elementary that must sound to experienced scratch builders - but to me it is more revelatory. I'm a detail guy and I missed something clearly evident if I would only have paid attention. Am I going to pull those pieces out? I don't think so. It would not be easy to do that without causing all kinds of collateral damage (this boat is smaller than it appears on the photos). I thought about sanding or filing them down, but I don't think that will turn out so great - better to keep them flat and clean.
I would also need a thickness sander to create this custom sized piece of wood which I don't have. Hmm...
I'm not really dismayed by this discovery - it's all part of learning a new hobby. But I wanted to share this post so others can learn alongside me.
Oh, in my defense, I don't have ship plans in the way they are ordinarily available (or you might be thinking of them). I would describe the line drawings I have as archaeological rather than for the purpose of building something. Nevertheless, a lesson learned (and now shared).
Onward!
I discovered another framing error before I went to bed last night. The straight pieces that sit on the flat floor of the boat between the curved frames should be thinner than (about half the height of) the frames.
I am growing in my appreciation for what it takes to do accurate scratch construction. You cannot just look at one drawing if there are other drawings of the same area of the ship from another orientation. I was only using the overhead view and neglected the side view. That seems obvious now but apparently wasn't obvious to me three days ago. Careful study of ALL available information is necessary.
I realize how elementary that must sound to experienced scratch builders - but to me it is more revelatory. I'm a detail guy and I missed something clearly evident if I would only have paid attention. Am I going to pull those pieces out? I don't think so. It would not be easy to do that without causing all kinds of collateral damage (this boat is smaller than it appears on the photos). I thought about sanding or filing them down, but I don't think that will turn out so great - better to keep them flat and clean.
I would also need a thickness sander to create this custom sized piece of wood which I don't have. Hmm...
I'm not really dismayed by this discovery - it's all part of learning a new hobby. But I wanted to share this post so others can learn alongside me.
Oh, in my defense, I don't have ship plans in the way they are ordinarily available (or you might be thinking of them). I would describe the line drawings I have as archaeological rather than for the purpose of building something. Nevertheless, a lesson learned (and now shared).
Onward!
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There is an topic that shows you how to build one. Easy to do....
For a first time scratch build ……. Not bad at all, Paul.
Bravo!And about the errors: next time first ask if anyone noticed anything. For now: I won't tell anyone.
And there are more ‘detail guys’ ……
Regards, Peter
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My oh my! What a stunning VASA Esping you are creating here, Paul. Having just stumbled through my two little boats, all I can say is that your work is that of a master. As usual, the cleanliness' of your work on something so small is just beyond reproach. Unbelievable!
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Well Doc, if you stay on the good side and send a letter to Santa and really believe, you never know what could appear under the tree in a month from now.
As issues of scale go, Paul - you may have erred, in fact, but not in perception. This certainly looks more right to my eye (which is looking at lots of this stuff all the time), than it does wrong. I didn't notice, and I still don't see it.
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Hey Doc, just noticed that there is minor difference in scale between Vasa and this boat, 1:65 vs 1:64, is there a reason you didn't build to same scale as the Vasa?
Keenly observed Kurt. As I understand it 1:64 is a standard / traditional scale for models and miniatures (1:48, 1:64, etc.) and I have a suspicion my Vasa kit is actually 1:64 (with 1:65 on the box being more of a marketing thing). Even if I'm wrong I can assure you that my ability to draw pencil lines and measure introduces more than enough error to make the scale of my work more of an estimation than an engineering certainty. I should probably change the title to 1:60 to 1:70ish..
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Great segue Paul. I was a "good boy" this year and Santa/Admiral came early, literally yesterday! All I can say is, it is worth every penny. Accurate over the 400mm length of the board to 1-2/100 of a mm.
If I had Stephan's skills I might try and build my own. But if I built one with my real skillset (not imagined), you would not let the kids or the pets get close to it, let alone my fingers!! 
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Ken,Great segue Paul. I was a "good boy" this year and Santa/Admiral came early, literally yesterday! All I can say is, it is worth every penny. Accurate over the 400mm length of the board to 1-2/100 of a mm.
View attachment 343320View attachment 343319
I purchased mine several years ago and have never been disappointed with it. Very robust and accurate unit.
Happy sanding!
Work continues apace on the esping.
First, I added the 'stringer' that runs along the length of the hull. I'm sure it adds some strength, but it also provides a place for the seats to 'notch' into. I'm certain it has a name...
Even a little boat needs lots of clamps:
Here it is in place from later in the day:
The cap rail (?) is constructed from two components - an inner band and an outer band. See here the actual boat:
The inner band is 1mm thick (tall) and 2 mm wide. I didn't think I would be able to bend a strip of wood to match the contours of this inner band (it basically sits on top of the frames), so I cut one from sheet stock. First, a template that could be used for transferring the shape of the boat...
And then, having installed the inner band (what a nightmare it was to fit), I was able to bend a 1.5 square strip to form the outer band. Here is the completed rail from above:
In the image above you can also the tapering board that lies at the centerline and sits on the frames. A closer look:
Protruding through the inner portion of the rail there are fin-shaped things. They have something to do with the leeboards (you can also see the notches for the seats on the 'stringer'):
And a parting look from the side:
I'm still really enjoying this little boat. Lots of challenging steps - but progress is experienced on a daily basis rather than on a monthly basis...
Thanks for stopping by!
First, I added the 'stringer' that runs along the length of the hull. I'm sure it adds some strength, but it also provides a place for the seats to 'notch' into. I'm certain it has a name
...Even a little boat needs lots of clamps:
Here it is in place from later in the day:
The cap rail (?) is constructed from two components - an inner band and an outer band. See here the actual boat:
The inner band is 1mm thick (tall) and 2 mm wide. I didn't think I would be able to bend a strip of wood to match the contours of this inner band (it basically sits on top of the frames), so I cut one from sheet stock. First, a template that could be used for transferring the shape of the boat...
And then, having installed the inner band (what a nightmare it was to fit), I was able to bend a 1.5 square strip to form the outer band. Here is the completed rail from above:
In the image above you can also the tapering board that lies at the centerline and sits on the frames. A closer look:
Protruding through the inner portion of the rail there are fin-shaped things. They have something to do with the leeboards (you can also see the notches for the seats on the 'stringer'):
And a parting look from the side:
I'm still really enjoying this little boat. Lots of challenging steps - but progress is experienced on a daily basis rather than on a monthly basis...
Thanks for stopping by!
Paul very clean and accurate work
You have such a flair for model ship building Paul. Everything you build is just wonderful. That beautiful esping reflects your keen eye, careful handwork and becomes it’s own little piece of artwork.
Incroyable, Paul!
I wondered about that gap. I assumed it was a result of ‘sagging‘ of the raised boat. I’ll want to correct that mistake. Do we know if the sheave was wood or metal? I assume the pin for that sheave passed through both cap rail extensions? I guess I didn’t see any holes there. Hmm. Thanks for pointing this out Peter.
Sorry I don't know the material or size for the sheave, or if it was found.
The size would be possible to deduce from where the center hole is for the radius, and the size of the gap to give the thickness.
(Keep in mind that there is no need for room for a rope to pass inboard of the sheave)
Perhaps Fred can help with more detail here?
Since the original drawings on the website did not agree (shape of the bottom differs for example), the boat was recorded in detail in 2004 with a view to create new reconstruction drawings.
The only thing I have showing the hole is this grainy thing unfortunately:
The esping was not a new build and has wear marks from kedging on the starboard side of the stem from prior use.
Cheers,
Peter
The size would be possible to deduce from where the center hole is for the radius, and the size of the gap to give the thickness.
(Keep in mind that there is no need for room for a rope to pass inboard of the sheave)
Perhaps Fred can help with more detail here?
Since the original drawings on the website did not agree (shape of the bottom differs for example), the boat was recorded in detail in 2004 with a view to create new reconstruction drawings.
The only thing I have showing the hole is this grainy thing unfortunately:
The esping was not a new build and has wear marks from kedging on the starboard side of the stem from prior use.
Cheers,
Peter
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