FLYING DUTCHMAN

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Captain room bulkhead work part 33



I made a quick drawing.
I made a jig for making a frame for doors using a plywood 5.5 mm thick.




Soak cypress 1mm thick x 2mm wide in hot water. It takes about 20 minutes.




Put 2 pieces of 1mm thick cypress into the jig and put them in the mold. Leave it to dry.
When it is dry, take it out, take out the two pieces, bond them with a tight bond, and put
them in the jig formwork again.
When the adhesive dries, take it out and the door frame is completed. Make two of these.




It is a work of the partition wall of the captain's room. It's small at 1/72, so it's difficult to make……
Still, it has managed to take shape.




In addition, decorate.




I made a door. The large hinge metal fittings use a 0.3 mm thick plastic plate and reproduce
the bolt with a 0.5 mm brass wire. The knob used the head of the insect pin.




I painted it.
It's the usual German gray thinner shabu-shabu. The metal fittings painted the ground.




I tried to temporarily assemble it on the hull.
It looks like this. Without bulwarks, stairs, etc.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Attached to the top deck of the stern PART 34


The red arrow part, first of all, it is a place that can not be seen, but like this,
I added details and glued the deck.




You can see it somehow. I'm glad I made it!



Bulwark foundation



Red arrow part, first immerse 1 mm thick and about 4.5 mm wide cypress in water,
soak it with plenty of water, bend it according to the curve of the hull, make a habit and dry it,
then glue it.
It is left as it is overnight.





There was a gap in the red arrow part of the bow deck, so I embedded a 1 mm thick cypress.




1mm thick cypress is glued to even thickness.






Furthermore, 1 mm thick and 5 mm wide cypress wood was sewn from the front side.
The width of the red arrow part in the photo below was set to about 5 mm, with a
thickness of 1 mm applied from the rear side.



Two 1 mm thick cypresses were glued on the red arrow to adjust the height.




Glue the decorative board on the bulwark base on both sides of the bow.




Adhesive veneer boards on both sides of the stern.




I managed to glue the bulwark base. It took some time to adjust the height.
Since it was a foundation work considering the next process, can I make the bulwark work a little easier?





This is the whole picture as of now.




Cat head work



I picked up this image online. It is around the FD bow cat head.
When I made the 1/60 FD issue, there wasn't an image like this.
Even so, there are still some things I don't understand.




I made it based on the image above.
This is the starboard side.




This is the port side.
It would be nice if they were alike... (sweat




The image seen from above.
I'm sure it looks like this.
It is still a temporary assembly, but let's paint and glue it because it is OK!




It is ahead of the cat head. What kind of animal's skull wasn't it similar?




Finally, I can work on bulwark. There are many things to do, such as setting up a pillar
of bulwark and making a wall with balsa...

 

[Jim J]

This has got to be one of the most impressive builds I have ever seen, by one of the true masters of the craft. I am humbled.

 

[PT-2]

Excellent and innovative techniques. That is what we like to see!!

Excellent tutorial for me to watch while not building this model but learning from seeing. What is the model of the hand held micro router that you use to drill out the gunports? Will it accept bits small enough (#60 - #70 or so, to smooth out the sheaves in 3mm wood blocks which come drilled at 90 degres and not satisfactory for lines enterint and leaving at visually correct angles? Thanks for your lead on how to best ecomonically do this. My micro diamond drill is not a good way for my hands to do this.

 

[mellpapa]

Dear Mr. PT-2
I used the following router to drill the gunport.
Photo A
PROXXON No. 26800.
Mini Router MM30

Power supply...100V, 50/60Hz
Power consumption...15W
Speed...7,000 - 16,500 min-¹ (times/minute) with stepless electronic control
Dimensions...length 195mm, width 29mm
Weight...160g
Rated operating time...15 minutes

The drill bit.
Photo B
Applications: Drilling of metals and non-ferrous metals
Material : HSS
Shaft diameter: 2.35mm diameter
Drill diameter: 1.0 mm dia.
It is.

By the way, the drilling of 3mm wood blocks and 2mm wood blocks is
I used the router in photo C.
This is also a PROXXON.

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

​

 

[s.solajic]

with you also taking on this built it would be wonderful if you did a build log and your work and details can be added to Mellpapa's work. This is what this international forum is all about sharing information and helping one another.
Mellpapa is in Japan you are in Serbia but everyone is here.
Mellpapa offers his plans of the Black Pearl and the Flying Dutchman free to anyone, what an honorable thing to do!

Yes, thanks, I will for sure make detailed photo build log and will try to address and give detailed explanations on every step, particularly for the numerous details that are not covered by the Melpapa's plans.
Due to the complexity of this model, it will be a long-term project I co not believe that I could finish it in less than two years.

 

[mrshanks]

@mellpapa Hello sir. Could you tell us how long it took you from start to finish to build your Flying Dutchman? It is a great work!!!

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

This has got to be one of the most impressive builds I have ever seen, by one of the true masters of the craft. I am humbled.

a while back i was looking for a new subject to model and i realized everything looks the same. Yes the hull shape may be a little different more or less guns, different carvings but in general a ship is a ship. The Ontario looked like the General Hunter which looked like the Nancy which looked like the Hannah. One way is to go way out on the fringes and find a tug boat, or a river paddle boat even a dredging barge. That sill did not inspire because no matter what type of vessel it is still a model ship. A realization, the issue is lack of creativity not to be confused with craftsmanship but ship models are built very clean almost sterile, lack of a single soul aboard, no sign of realism no artistic approach to the subject.

Don't get me wrong there are different styles of building but what lacks in the community of model ship building is the realism and artistic approach to a subject.
A trend was to lay down a deck that was a stark glaring white and perfectly sanded and finished wood that approached the appearance of plastic.

What Mellpapa has done with the Black Pearl and the Flying Dutchman is to take model building to a new level. He is not a model ship builder he is an artist using a ship model as a subject, the artistic use of using a base color and washes of color over the base to give it depth. Things i learned in art school opaque base colors with translucent washes. The addition of surface textures take the model a away from that plastic appearance. Adding broken rails, holes in the hull, how do you model chipping paint, long weathered wood?

Mellpapa has opened the flood gates of creative modeling

You can build a model car but adding an artistic touch takes it to a new level



making you wonder if it is real or a scale model

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Bluwork base/cat head painting PARY 35




I painted the bulwark base and the cat head, and glued the cat head and other parts
that were temporarily assembled.




Image seen from above. The cat head should have been a little longer...
Well!





It is a picture from the front of the slope. The height of things that jumped out was not the same,
but the FD of the movie was also not the same.




Now, when I check it against the drawings of the bulwarks,...





Dibby Jones came to observe the progress...
Ah! Hi Jones,
the construction of the ship is proceeding smoothly.





Bowwork and handrail of the bowwork on the bow side
A pillar was erected using 3 mm square and 2 mm square.
2mm square timber is thin, so it's difficult to process.




It's a close-up photo, but it's hard to see because it has a similar color to the deck.





Then, I tried to temporarily assemble the handrail on the bow.




The parts look like this. I couldn't quite open the columns, but I managed to do it.
I immerse a 1 mm thick and 5 mm wide cypress wood in hot water and then bend it vertically,
but it doesn't bend as I expected.
I managed to get rid of it, but it became stale. After making holes for the columns,
I applied a 0.5 mm thick cypress for makeup and adjusted the appearance.




It's still a temporary assembly, but I will use the nippers to push in the part that becomes
light red when I bond it and express the damage.

 

[mellpapa]

@mellpapa Hello sir. Could you tell us how long it took you from start to finish to build your Flying Dutchman? It is a great work!!!

Hello, mrshanks.
The Flying Dutchman took about 3 years to build, 1/60 of which was about 3 years. It was a lot of research on the internet, making outfitting parts drawings and so on. I was mostly building with gusto.
There were a few periods of time when I couldn't produce it for work.

The 1/72 Flying Dutchman isn't completely finished yet. There are some parts I haven't made yet.
It's still incomplete and I've been exhibiting it at some shows. It's almost like it's finished, I display it as if it were finished.
People think it's finished.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Handrail construction on the port side of the bow PART 35





Bend a cypress with a thickness of 1mm and a width of 5mm as shown in the image.




Temporarily assemble and finely adjust the holes. Make the pillars straight. But it doesn't straighten up.




Remove the temporary assembly and attach it to a cypress with a thickness of 0.5 mm. It's a lining.
The thickness will be 1.5 mm, but the strength will be increased by bonding.




When the adhesive dries, make a hole for the pillar...





Cut around and sprinkle with sandpaper.


It is a temporary assembly. Image seen from the side.




Image seen from diagonally above.
Sounds good!
I wish I could use cypress wood with a thickness of 1.5 mm from the beginning...
But it seems that it takes more time to make it beautiful.
I made a handrail in front of the bow with a thickness of 2 mm and tried to cut
it down to a thickness of 1.5 mm, but the 2 mm thickness and 5 mm width do not bend cleanly.
Then, when I tried it with a thickness of 1 mm, it was wavy but bent. If you use sandpaper,
it will be manageable, so you can clean it with a 0.5 mm thick lining.
Now, on the right side.




It is the bent right handrail part. It's hard to bend like this.



It's rippling like this. So put sandpaper.



After making a hole, temporarily assembling it and adjusting it, it is lined with a 0.5 mm thick plate.




The excess was cut off and sandpaper was applied.




Repeat temporary assembly and fine adjustment. It is a picture seen from above.




It is a photo seen from the side. This is OK. Since the stanchions are also temporarily assembled,
they are separated and then glued.



I glued all the temporary assembly and made the wall of the gun port.
Damage marks are also attached with nippers.




It is a damage mark on the handrail of the bow.




You can see the bulwark part and the gunport part on the starboard side.




The round ring of Gunport was made by hardening 1mm balsa with instant adhesive
and cutting it with a design knife.




You can see the gun port on the port side.




I took pictures of similar angles everywhere, so I will post them here.




I've done this far.
That's all for today!

I was able to work on the bulwark of the bow. Next is the handrail on the outer skin of the
center of the ship. It feels like you are tracing the production process at 1/72 when you made the 1/60 FD.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Handrails on the outer skin of the center of the ship PART 36



It is the part that connects from the bow handrail, but the work at the red circle arrow is difficult.



It is a connection of the handrail on the starboard side. It's not the same as the drawing.
If it's similar, OK!
It is shaving using the wood for crafts sold at 100-yen shops. It was a very soft tree.





It is an entire photo of the handrails on the starboard side and the outer plate side of the
center of the ship.




This is the port side, so I managed to process it. OK if it looks like a drawing!




Overall picture of the handrails on the port side and the outer plate of the center of the ship.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Stern side support work PART 36



The prop on the stern side was set up at once.
I had forgotten all about making pillars, putting wood grain and taking pictures.




It is a stern side close-up photograph.




This is the port side.




It is a stern-up photograph on the port side.




Crafting of the stern side bulwark part



I took a picture because I made some handrails and bulwark parts. Shooting from the starboard side.




This is taken from the port side.




It is a close-up photo. I haven't made any damage marks yet.
By the way, I will make more stern part!





The next handrail is being adjusted.
Repeat the shaving according to the pillar.





It's troublesome because if you get caught a little, the pillar will not come in.
So it takes a lot of time.





I joined the post holes and glued them...
This position was wrong.





The position of the red line is the adhesion point.
The position of the blue arrow is incorrect...
Dip water to remove the tight bond.
Tight bond is the same as woodworking bond, so even if it hardens, it can be softened
with water and peel off the bond, which is helpful.




Then, it is glued in the correct position.




The starboard side is also glued in the correct position.




The handrail on the red arrow extends to the stern.




The stern side has two handrails.
The second handrail is being adjusted.





I adjusted it and glued it.




The second step is also glued to the port side.




Stick the red arrow part and the bulwark wall.
Mark the damage and finish the handrail and bulwark part.
No, it is a quiet and time-consuming work.
There is no such thing as a full scratch.




A photo of the entire starboard side made up to this point.
It is a place that has not been painted.
It's very easy to understand.



The entire port side as well.




Now that the bulwark side is complete, we have to make a gangway railing and so on.


I have to do the painting of Blu-work.
However, painting can be done only after the adhesive has completely cured,
so let's leave it as it is overnight. Let's paint tomorrow.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

A fairly elaborate handrail PART 37



It's an image I picked up on the net, but the railing in the red frame is pretty stiff.
It's hard to reproduce this at about 1/72. For the time being, I'll make a drawing.




I tried to paint handrails, bulwarks, etc., but I forgot to add a muddy texture.
So, I used Tamiya Epoxy Putty and Woodworking Putty to add texture and barnacle texture.
I wonder if the painting is still good.
So I decided to make a very elaborate handrail.




So I made a drawing. Thick columns are 3 mm square, and thin columns are 2 mm square.
The stanchions are too thick and completely distorted.
The upper part is the stern side and the lower part is the bow side.




First of all, the pillar is carved out from 3mm square and 2mm square, and the brass wire
is put in the bottom.



Adhere the support to the pedestal and write the position of the support hole on the rail.
Make a cut hole with a pin vise.



It is in the state that the pillar hole is opened in the rail part.
How many times did it break... Immediately after it cracked, I repaired it with instant adhesive.




did it! The top is for the stern side and the bottom is the bow side.




It is against the drawing.
This is the stern side.




This is the bow side.
I managed to do it.




Temporary assembled state on the bow side.




Temporary assembled state of the stern side...I realized that the stern side was a little
different from the bow side even if it was made up to this point.
I was wrong...
The stern side is being rebuilt.
I misunderstood that it was the same as the bow side……
orz




It is an image that shows the handrail on the stern side picked up on the net.
The drawing is recreated based on this and mass.




So I remade the drawing. The damaged part is not reproduced.
I will make it immediately according to this drawing.




Cut out the material and process each with a design knife.




Put a 0.5mm brass wire on the bottom of the pillar...




Assembly is complete.
The assembly is the same as the last time, so the image is omitted.
It is a comparison with the drawing.
It's OK because it looks similar.




Immediately, it is temporary assembly. In order to express the damage mark when bonding,
part of it is cut with a nipper.




I took a picture of a 10-yen coin and a ruler together, as to how big this handrail was.
It's not so small, but each part is small, and it's a bit awkward to make a hole in the pole
for the handrail plate.
So I don't want to make it again-it's a handrail.

Do you want to make it on the stairs next time?

 

[Donnie]

An incredible amount of detailed explanation. This all has been well worth the reading.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Stair construction PART 38


It is a mellpapa style staircase.
If the stairs are distorted or they don't fit on the scale, it's a pity, so let's make them firmly.
Even so, it would be nice if the professionals could see it... embarrassing creeps (;^ω^)b
Limited to having a Proxon mini circular saw.
First, draw the drawing.
This is a drawing of the stairs down from Gangway.
Measure and draw the stairs of the hull. I drew it on a computer with an application called Illustrator,
but it is the same if I draw it by hand.
Copy paper is enough.






Cut with the outer square frame.
The angle of the square frame at this time must be 90°.





Use 1mm thick and 5mm wide cypress to make the stair girder.
The Oshikiri cutter "Shin right angle"





Attach a tight bond to the red circle on the drawing...
A woodworking bond is also OK!





Attach the stair girder member to the drawing.





I will also paste the other one.




I pasted two stairs on the drawing.
Proxon's Mini Circular Saw is now available.
It also appeared when you made the window frame.





The blade of Proxon's mini circular saw uses a carbide circular saw blade.
The thickness of the blade is 0.6 mm and there is no cutting.
And the height of the blade is about 8.5 mm.
Perhaps the heights of the blades are not the same due to individual differences.
Mini Circular Saw cannot adjust the height of the blade, so it is necessary to adjust
the height on the base side.





I made a special slide table on Proxon's mini circular saw.
8mm thick table with 4mm thick plywood + 2.5mm thick veneer + 1mmm plastic plate + 0.5mm plastic plate.





This will cause the Circular Saw blade to protrude 0.5 mm from the table.
We will use this to make the grooves on the steps of the stairs.





Bring the parts that you attached to the drawing...




Turn it over and slide the table so that the transparent line fits the line of the blade that protrudes 0.5mm.
Slide the table while shifting the groove line that can be seen through, and carve a groove for the
footboard of the stairs.





As you can see, the groove is processed when you turn the inside out.




If you cut with the red line...




Remove only the parts you want from the drawing.




Just like this. After that, cut the fluffy part with a saw blade with a design knife.




Cut out cypress wood with a thickness of 0.5 mm and a width of 5 mm to the size of a footboard.
Here too, the Oshikiri cutter, "Zakuroku-kun", is very useful.





Glue the A and B footboards first and insert the remaining footboards into the grooves.
After that, use a brush to apply a tight bond diluted with water from the back side into the groove.
When the tight bond is dry, the stairs are complete.





Two stairs down from Gangway have been completed.
Follow the same procedure to make stairs at other locations.





I tried to temporarily assemble the stairs that were made to the hull.
The stairs made by the red circle.
This is hard to see, so I will post an up image.




This is a close-up image of the gang way part of the bow.




This is a close-up image of the gangway part stern side.




This is also the stairs down to the gun deck.




The stairs on both sides of the captain's door and the stairs on the deck with the rat are above.




It is a group photo before painting with all the stairs removed.
All you have to do is paint and glue.


Next time, do you make it for Belfry and Capstan?

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Capstan work PART 39



I made a parts drawing of the capstan.
It's a good idea if you know it, so don't stick.
Parts are cut out according to this drawing.





It is a shooting when it is done to some extent.
How to make is the same as 1/72BP.





A reinforcing plate was put under the capstan.
I will put a reinforcing plate in the middle.





The red arrow part. It has a reinforcing plate in it.





When I made the 1/60 FD, the capstan I had just made came out, so I took it with them.
The size is quite different.





I made an octopus with Tamiya epoxy putty, but it was a little too big.
But I will proceed as it is. Once cured, shape with a design knife.





It is shooting from the side.
I left it overnight to wait for it to cure.





I cut the octopus and made it smaller, but it's still big.
It's deformation, so let's keep going!





It is the usual painting.




Shoot with changing the angle appropriately.





I tried to temporarily assemble it on the hull.
Was it a little big...





But is it emphasized?
That's it!
Let's put people on it, let's do it!




It is an unpainted figure of the architectural model from 1/72 to 1/75 and unpainted Mr. Debbie Jones.
It's a nice size (self-satisfaction!)



Belfry work



Make a simple drawing and cut out parts.
I always think.
It is a work of making drawings, but it is not the same as the drawing...
The crafting technology is not catching up...
Well, if it's similar, it's OK!




All materials are cypress, 0.5 mm, 1.0 mm, 3.0 mm plate and 3 mm square.




I managed to assemble it. The white mall is an evergreen plastic plate 0.25mm x 0.5mm.
It took me a while to stick it.
It's a little hard to see, so I'll take a black background and shoot again.




It looks like this. Broken bellflies are on the bow side, decent bellfries are on the stern side.
The movie doesn't seem to have a bell.




Painted, the usual gray.
You can see the size compared to a 10-yen coin.
It is a component that is not so small.




After painting, it is a temporary assembly.
View from the bow side.




View from the starboard side of the bow side.
It's a temporary assembly, so it's diagonal.




A view from the starboard side of the stern side.
This is also a little slanted.




View from the stern side.
Is it nearing completion?
Today is up to here.

Next, I'll make a support for the rope railing... I think it's about to take the channel part.

 

[mrshanks]

It is a mellpapa style staircase.

Very cool. Mr Mellpapa does his stairs nearly identical to how we did ours for the 17th Century Battle Station.

We CNC cut the stringers... and laser cut the steps.


Carefully assembled with CA


Finished

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Production of props for rope handrails PART 40



The pillars are cut out from 2 mm square cypress.
Insert the line with a pencil...





Make the head of the red arrow part a little flat...




Cut off the central part of the red arrow...




Cut the bottom corners and it's done!
Make about 30 of these...





I made a pillar.... By the way, the stairs in the red arrow have rope handrails...
I've noticed that it's very mischievous...





The stairs in the red arrow are downstairs like this, so it's very difficult to attach columns and ropes...





I took it off for a while and tried various errors, but I can't use this...
I used the footboard 5mm width, but I came to the conclusion that the footboard 3mm width is good for work.
Tohoho……





So I made it again.
In this way, the rope can be attached first and the stairs can be installed.





Then I remade all the stairs to 3mm width.




The 5mm wide stairs I made first were all scrapped.




After rebuilding the stairs, I made a rope support.
It's not enough to make this much!





When the rope support is completed, insert 0.5mm brass wire into the bottom of all the supports.
(The red arrow part!)





Make a hole in the square (red arrow) on the rope column to pass the rope through.




Apply the lacquer paint German Gray Thinner to Shabu-Shabu.




The rest is waiting for drying.
Once dry, glue the stanchions in place and pass the rope through.


Painting of bulwark and adhesion of rope handrail support




It's glued to the railings, but I forgot to take a photo during the work.
Well, I just glue it in place and stretch the rope.
I will post a photo.




Handrails of stairs next to the captain's room door




The handrail of the stairs that descends downstairs from the gangway on the port side... Where is the focus?




Railing downstairs in front of the capstan




Starboard Gang Way Railings




Taken from a slight angle




Then there are the amazing textures and barnacles of Blu-work.
In the morning, I used to spend one hour before going to work and had some putty.




Today is up to here.
It's done.
There are still parts on the upper deck that have to be made. Let's make them from the next time.

Next is making the pin rail for the bulwark side. Oops, I have to make a rat!

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Very cool. Mr Mellpapa does his stairs nearly identical to how we did ours for the 17th Century Battle Station.

We CNC cut the stringers... and laser cut the steps.

oh really? is that the story your sticking to? two model builders across the world both coming up with the same idea not knowing what each other did that is an amazing coincident. Can the same idea or design of something happen by two people in two different places at the same time? Or did one copy the other? but then again if one did not know what the other did than how could one copy the other?
oh well
getting back to the build