french 64-gunner LE FLEURON in scale 1:48 by Joachim
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Hello Joachin, Here is Donnie's post
Donnie's HMS Blandford Cross Section Build: 1/32 Scale [COMPLETED BUILD]
Donnie, I have to admit I've never used (BOM), because I don't know anything about the American measurement system, Yes, I have tried conversion calculators and have not made it, therefore I have measured everything directly from the drawings in mm. Therefore, there has been a good deal of...
shipsofscale.com
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my first self-made plastic cannon. First I drilled a barrel for the cannonball with the lathe, then I turned a cone over the entire length: the angle on the slide has to be set so that the right thickness 8 mm in the Front and 12 mm at the end will be received. Then with the same angle I turn the spaces between the rings. Rounding the front and the end is done with various files. I drilled the holes for the pins 2mm deep with the milling machine It works
Excellent machinery work, Joachim! Very good results. 
However, if you don't mind, the reinforcement rings still needs a bit of trimming. Ideally make them the same size\thickness as the first one (near the muzzle, the widest part ) 
However, if you don't mind, the reinforcement rings still needs a bit of trimming. Ideally make them the same size\thickness as the first one (near the muzzle, the widest part ) 
Hi Joachim,great work.To optimise efficiency I would grind some cheap High Carbon Steel tools to suit the ring profiles and the radius of the cascabel.This guarantees consistency between cannons instead of using files and speeds the process up.Ensure you quench the tool frequently when grinding,any visible colour appearing on the tool and it will loose it's hardness.You also need to maintain the rake angle running down the tool,These are what is known as Form Tools,a bit like the homemade scrapers we make for timber mouldings.
Kind Regards
Nigel
Kind Regards
Nigel
Hi Joachim,
Why not produce one completely decorate it and cast the rest in bronze resin? The quality of bronze resin casting or white metal casting can be excellent.
See videos of Andrey Kudin or the book the art of ship modeling.
Why not produce one completely decorate it and cast the rest in bronze resin? The quality of bronze resin casting or white metal casting can be excellent.
See videos of Andrey Kudin or the book the art of ship modeling.
Hello Joachim
I don't understand why you replaced "24 livres" with "18 livres". The cannon drawn is indeed a 24 pdr cannon.
The Fleuron gun deck must be armed with 24 pdr bronze and 18 pdr iron or all 24 pdr iron. The additional drawing of a 18 pdr is attached to the monograph by ANCRE.
GD
I don't understand why you replaced "24 livres" with "18 livres". The cannon drawn is indeed a 24 pdr cannon.
The Fleuron gun deck must be armed with 24 pdr bronze and 18 pdr iron or all 24 pdr iron. The additional drawing of a 18 pdr is attached to the monograph by ANCRE.
GD
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Hello Gerard, thank you for visiting my ship and for your hint. I am pleased that a famous master of model ships, writer and so on is visiting me
I decided to do all canons of the lower deck in 24 pdr iron. They are about 7.35 cm long.
I had to think a little bit about what you mean exactly but I then I understood. you really took an intensive look to the pictures I saw on my photo that I crossed 24 and wrote 18 livres en fer. I forgot that replacement. I wrote a wrong note many years ago. After the first reading of the plans I knew the possible combination of 24 pdr bronze and 18 pdr iron canon. But I saw only 24 pdr canons in bronze and 24 pdr iron canons on the plan. So I crossed the 24 iron canon and changed it in 18, I thought it was a mistake in the plan. later I found your hint in your Book with the pictures of the smaller 18 pdr book. So the plans for the 24 pdr iron canon are all right, the 18 pdr iron canons are not in the plans but in the book.
for all readers and modellers who are not french ore english: reading plans in English or french is hard. I can speak english and french, But technical sentences are sometimes a challenge you try to translate special words and you get in google 20 possible translations but without nautical background. Sometimes I read the text in both languages to understand it better.
Gerard, I have a question to you. Your books are delivered in french and english. Would be a German translation possible in the future ?
What is your next project in ships?
best regards Joachim
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Hi,
I have a simple answer: I like my lathe and I want to have all canons in real metal. At time I am not shure if I leave the canons in this Messing look or if I will make them black. The Messing look is maybe not original, but it looks in some way precious and you see that every canon is handmade.
In the meantime I need 2 Hours per canon. And the time is not boring. Compared with other works at the ship the canon are worth this time.
Yours Joachim
Hello Joachim,
Ok for the cannons.
Certainly the language of shipbuilding is a bit difficult to digest especially when it is in a foreign language. There is, however, in "Google books" old specialized translation dictionaries of maritime terms. It's then the culture of the subject which will allow the appreciation of the translated term to place it in its context.
Regarding the German translation of monographs, it is the publisher ANCRE who is in charge but often the low diffusion into that language dont justify, for him, the investment needed for translation and printing.
Best regards,
Gérard
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To be fair to the author and the reader and as I am in the last stages of completing my latest translation of another monograph I will say this:
I would think that most people working in the translation of such work have their own standards and ways to proceed, but personally:
"TRANSLATOR’S NOTE
The English translation of works such as ……….., by …… presents some challenges: some common to any translation, others being related to technical context and vocabulary.
In regards to style, my aim is to follow, with best accuracy possible, the descriptions and the length of the original work. Of course, in such cases, the resulting written word often shows a style readily or obviously identifiable as being the translation of reference material.... not novels….
The technical aspect and the vocabulary used in any particular monograph has lead me to rely, in large part, on the work by Jean Boudriot, the 74-Gun Ship, and its original translation by David H. Roberts: whom I am somewhat paraphrasing here. This original work has been the inspiration and motivation behind many subsequent monographs written by other authors. This said, there are other works such as old documents and dictionaries available online and in prints, that I use as complementary resources.
Although the monographs are very detailed, most modelers would be advised to take reference to this "original" work (either the French, English or Italian version) to further their knowledge or dig deeper into the subject to achieve their goal related to a particular monograph. As a result, to ensure continuity or to “speak the same language”, so to say, most translation of technical terms is drawn out from that original translated work: complemented by other published period books.
As I often say, be a modeler that is as educated as possible...
In regards to referenced historical sources included in the monographs, portions of period manuscripts, letters and other documents, the translation is done respecting, the best I can, the phrasing, spirit and character found in the original transcript of the old, dated French text: again trying to keep the translation in line with the language of the time.
And finally, this kind of translation work cannot happen without serious study of the graphic portion of the monograph: the plans themselves. In order to do the translation work correctly, I believe that one must have a deep understanding of the drawings. Being a modeler myself may make this work somewhat easier."
Sorry Joachim,
I hope I am not hijacking your log. Some may be interested in, or wondering about this.
Gilles Korent
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To Gerard:
your Plans and your Book are really great. Every detail is so beautiful painted in the plans and described in the book! I couldn’t find any mistake.
Thank you for this great work. I would be eager to see your work in the computer when you created the Fleuron
best regards Joachim
your Plans and your Book are really great. Every detail is so beautiful painted in the plans and described in the book! I couldn’t find any mistake.
Thank you for this great work. I would be eager to see your work in the computer when you created the Fleuron
best regards Joachim
Joachim,
Thank you, the Fleuron monograph is almost 30 years old now, my last works are much more detailed and elaborated with 3D drawings, more explanations, etc.
In monographs, as with many subjects, things evolve quickly.
Gérard
Thank you, the Fleuron monograph is almost 30 years old now, my last works are much more detailed and elaborated with 3D drawings, more explanations, etc.
In monographs, as with many subjects, things evolve quickly.
Gérard
@G. DELACROIX
I am interested to know with which progamms do you work, Gerard. In 3 D, as well the drawings. If its not a professional secret....
I am interested to know with which progamms do you work, Gerard. In 3 D, as well the drawings. If its not a professional secret....
There is no secret in this, I use AutoCad as much for drawing as for 3D knowing that the latter is relatively basic in monographs ("line drawing"). Sorry Joachim for this off topic.
GD
GD
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All 24 guns (24 pounders) from the first battery deck are made. Now I go on with 26 12 pounds from the battery deck above. You can see the first two in a picture in the middle of the cannon circle. With try and error, I had to adjust the cone angle for the smaller cannons again on the slide of the lathe. I measure the diameters from the beginning and end of the cone and, after removing some material, form the difference between the respective measured values and the target diameters. Then I adjust the slide and turn again with little material removal until the differences in front and back are the same. Then the angle of the slide is correct. On the picture with the plan of the cannon you can see my lubrication slip with the measured values. With the smaller cannon, not all sections have the same angle: with steeper angles, I correct this manually when turning by forming subsections between the rings and rotating them partially deeper. Yesterday with a lot of routine I did 4 (about 2 hours each). By switching to the new cannon format, I was unable to repeat this today, but I got 3 still managed.
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The muzzles are looking very good - well done !!!