Hannah 1/48 - Lumberyard

[Gventura]

So as I mentioned a did things a little differently for these replacements.

It turns out I was a little over enthusiastic about how many planks I had thinned down to 2.5mm, most of them are actually at 3.0mm and I don't check which were which. This messed with my replacements a little bit, but more on that later.

This time, after cutting out the new ribs I used a lightboard to trace the outline of the ribs on the back of their pages. I realized later I could've just printed two copies and glued one on backwards and use that to cut them, but oh well.



Using the two sided method I feel like the making of the ribs went much faster but not much more accurate than the ones I had made up previously.





I decided to remake rib W and the half ribs 4/6/7/8.

I also did some more test fitting and found that I really could've remade half the ribs to make them look better. And in effort to not get stuck at this stage I decided to just start gluing. Time to move on!

1. I put in rib A and rib W in place and glued them.



2. I started from A and began gluing down from the bow. I fit the each rib into the keel, tighten the grip, then tighten the grip where the rib touches the jig for optimal fit. Not all ribs are the same length and not all ribs have the same depth at the part where they meet the keel, so I felt this method would give me the most consistency.



3. We're off to the races. Glue, glue, glue.



I'll glue in all the full ribs, then I'll revisit the half ribs. Not all the new ones are completed and I may need to make a few more, but I'm moving forward.

 

[stuglo]

So as I mentioned a did things a little differently for these replacements.

It turns out I was a little over enthusiastic about how many planks I had thinned down to 2.5mm, most of them are actually at 3.0mm and I don't check which were which. This messed with my replacements a little bit, but more on that later.

This time, after cutting out the new ribs I used a lightboard to trace the outline of the ribs on the back of their pages. I realized later I could've just printed two copies and glued one on backwards and use that to cut them, but oh well.

View attachment 131743

Using the two sided method I feel like the making of the ribs went much faster but not much more accurate than the ones I had made up previously.

View attachment 131738

View attachment 131744

I decided to remake rib W and the half ribs 4/6/7/8.

I also did some more test fitting and found that I really could've remade half the ribs to make them look better. And in effort to not get stuck at this stage I decided to just start gluing. Time to move on!

1. I put in rib A and rib W in place and glued them.

View attachment 131737

2. I started from A and began gluing down from the bow. I fit the each rib into the keel, tighten the grip, then tighten the grip where the rib touches the jig for optimal fit. Not all ribs are the same length and not all ribs have the same depth at the part where they meet the keel, so I felt this method would give me the most consistency.

View attachment 131739

3. We're off to the races. Glue, glue, glue.

View attachment 131740

I'll glue in all the full ribs, then I'll revisit the half ribs. Not all the new ones are completed and I may need to make a few more, but I'm moving forward.

Sounds stupid but treble check the direction "facing" both before cutting and gluing. I thought I did and found a mistake only when came to sanding. Also, I used epoxy for gluing frames to jig- not easily reversible. Perhaps better PAV which can be freed-up if necessary. This is especially true with the half frames.

 

[Norway]

Nice new start, I will be watching, since I will build in the same way as you, there are probably many things I can learn from,

 

[Gventura]

Sounds stupid but treble check the direction "facing" both before cutting and gluing. I thought I did and found a mistake only when came to sanding. Also, I used epoxy for gluing frames to jig- not easily reversible. Perhaps better PAV which can be freed-up if necessary. This is especially true with the half frames.

Thanks for the advice! Yeah, I'm watching that closely. I've written on the top of each rib the direction it needs to go in, so each rib has its designation in the same place



This should help me avoid any wrong gluing.

 

[Gventura]

The work progresses!

I dry fit everything into place and the new cant ribs in the bow look pretty good.



(My photos keep coming out at weird angles since the update)

Have completed the main full ribs being glued into the keel and the jig. Came out nicely I think.





As you can see, there is some excess rib sticking out in some places but I think that's a good problem, easier to take away than to add. So I'll be shaving those down with a Dremel and evening everything out now that it's a solid piece.

Drying fitting of the stern cant ribs looks right. I'm doing some shaving where they come in contact with the keel to make them fit better. I could probably remake half the stern cant ribs but if I did that I'd just sit in rib making purgatory forever. So I'm fixing and moving onward.







I've completed one side of the stern cant ribs and will likely complete the other side shortly. Once the stern are completed I'll move to the bow and glue those into place. Once I'll ribs are glued I will either shape the entire ship in place or build the stern of the ship, not sure yet. But it looks good, especially from a distance haha.

 

[donfarr]

no the felling of RE-DOs on the frames, now only 6 more re-dos. Don

 

[Gventura]

, so putting in all the can't frames went rather smoothly. The bracing of the frames for drying got kind of elaborate at times, but with a little shaving and finishing everything worked out. In the end I redid half the cant frames in the bow.





When gluing in the stern frames I traced their proper gluing location from the plans onto the keel with tracing paper. Worked well.



At this point I had glued in all the frames and started taking inventory. Unfortunately I realized at this point that the frame 5 (pic below) sat too low in the jig. It was an original frame and probably had just gotten cut too low. So I have to remake it. I hammered the frame out and surprisingly it came off easily. I'm using wood glue so it left some staining but with some sanding it won't be noticable. I feel like this is the benefit of not using epoxy.



I've started the shaping process. Lots of shaving and sanding of the ribs that were too high or too thick. I thought maybe I could use the Dremel but I can't get it done to the right angle to keep the frames flat. So doing it all by hand. Most frames are right so what I've done is cut a slice of sandpaper the same width of the frames and using a pencil I'm sanding stuff. The pencil works great at keeping things level.





This is after a few hours of work. I've done some shaping to the rear cant frame angles where they meet the keel. They look a lot more like the plans. They'll need some more sanding to flatten them down.



While I'm waiting for the final frame to dry in the bow of the other side of the framing I started looking at the next step pieces. This kit comes with laser cut pieces for the stern structure.



Very nice pieces after being sanded. I don't have a picture but that middle piece is what the smaller pieces are supposed to rest on to form the main platform of the stern structure, but on my kit the piece isn't long enough. It measures 3.25" across and I need it to be 3.5". I think I have a solution but I'll look more into it later.

 

[stuglo]

, so putting in all the can't frames went rather smoothly. The bracing of the frames for drying got kind of elaborate at times, but with a little shaving and finishing everything worked out. In the end I redid half the cant frames in the bow.

View attachment 132710

View attachment 132711

When gluing in the stern frames I traced their proper gluing location from the plans onto the keel with tracing paper. Worked well.

View attachment 132714

At this point I had glued in all the frames and started taking inventory. Unfortunately I realized at this point that the frame 5 (pic below) sat too low in the jig. It was an original frame and probably had just gotten cut too low. So I have to remake it. I hammered the frame out and surprisingly it came off easily. I'm using wood glue so it left some staining but with some sanding it won't be noticable. I feel like this is the benefit of not using epoxy.

View attachment 132716

I've started the shaping process. Lots of shaving and sanding of the ribs that were too high or too thick. I thought maybe I could use the Dremel but I can't get it done to the right angle to keep the frames flat. So doing it all by hand. Most frames are right so what I've done is cut a slice of sandpaper the same width of the frames and using a pencil I'm sanding stuff. The pencil works great at keeping things level.

View attachment 132717

View attachment 132719

This is after a few hours of work. I've done some shaping to the rear cant frame angles where they meet the keel. They look a lot more like the plans. They'll need some more sanding to flatten them down.

View attachment 132720

While I'm waiting for the final frame to dry in the bow of the other side of the framing I started looking at the next step pieces. This kit comes with laser cut pieces for the stern structure.

View attachment 132718

Very nice pieces after being sanded. I don't have a picture but that middle piece is what the smaller pieces are supposed to rest on to form the main platform of the stern structure, but on my kit the piece isn't long enough. It measures 3.25" across and I need it to be 3.5". I think I have a solution but I'll look more into it later.

increasingly I have used electric tools to speed up the work-especially sanding. Often this is a mistake ,which I keep repeating, because of a lack of patience, particularly with a dremel drum or disc. Judicious use of a hand held proxxon belt sander (a VERY useful tool) can save time if I keep repeating to myself,out loud, CAREFUL,NOT TOO MUCH.Keep up the good work

 

[Uwek]

, so putting in all the can't frames went rather smoothly. The bracing of the frames for drying got kind of elaborate at times, but with a little shaving and finishing everything worked out. In the end I redid half the cant frames in the bow.

View attachment 132710

View attachment 132711

When gluing in the stern frames I traced their proper gluing location from the plans onto the keel with tracing paper. Worked well.

View attachment 132714

At this point I had glued in all the frames and started taking inventory. Unfortunately I realized at this point that the frame 5 (pic below) sat too low in the jig. It was an original frame and probably had just gotten cut too low. So I have to remake it. I hammered the frame out and surprisingly it came off easily. I'm using wood glue so it left some staining but with some sanding it won't be noticable. I feel like this is the benefit of not using epoxy.

View attachment 132716

I've started the shaping process. Lots of shaving and sanding of the ribs that were too high or too thick. I thought maybe I could use the Dremel but I can't get it done to the right angle to keep the frames flat. So doing it all by hand. Most frames are right so what I've done is cut a slice of sandpaper the same width of the frames and using a pencil I'm sanding stuff. The pencil works great at keeping things level.

View attachment 132717

View attachment 132719

This is after a few hours of work. I've done some shaping to the rear cant frame angles where they meet the keel. They look a lot more like the plans. They'll need some more sanding to flatten them down.

View attachment 132720

While I'm waiting for the final frame to dry in the bow of the other side of the framing I started looking at the next step pieces. This kit comes with laser cut pieces for the stern structure.

View attachment 132718

Very nice pieces after being sanded. I don't have a picture but that middle piece is what the smaller pieces are supposed to rest on to form the main platform of the stern structure, but on my kit the piece isn't long enough. It measures 3.25" across and I need it to be 3.5". I think I have a solution but I'll look more into it later.

Looking very good - very clean work

 

[Gventura]

Since last time I put in the last missing cant frame in the bow and started moving forward. I've done a lot of shaping and am very happy with the way things are coming together on the hull.

Next step is building the stern structure. Here the Lumberyard provides some laser cut pieces. Given how my build has gone the last cut piece was much too small. So I cut off a piece of the slat the laser cut piece came from and started shaping my own. Below is the rough cut next to the laser cut.



It took some time but I got it work out properly. I transferred the plans for the location of the posts onto the jig and used that to locate where the cuts needed to go into the transom piece.



I also added some support on the jig to hold the posts in place and make sure they're at the correct angle.



I realized I didn't take enough photos. I used the milling machine to cut out the areas that needed to be removed on both sides of the piece. Nothing is glued in at this point, it's all dry fit and it fits really well! The angles are right and the heights are correct, the proper 2 inches from jig to top of the transom. Below is a copy of the plans and how it should look, which is close.



And the fun photos; here is where we are in the shaping.

 

[Gventura]

After dry fitting everything I moved on to gluing the transom together, which of course broke.



Transom wing got glued in and checked to be exactly the 2" from the jig that's required.

After being glued in it needed to be faired. To protect the ribs I just used some Tamiya tape, had to be replaced a couple times, but worked well.



As mentioned earlier the transom pieces were laser cut. Once they were cleaned up they needed to have a notch cut into them. I transfered a copy of the plans to a note care and used that as a stencil.



After preparing those pieces I went back to finish building the bottom part of the transom. The plans called for 1/8" between each of the blocks and each block is a mm smaller than the previous. So I used some 1/8 balsa strips with pearwood strips supplied with the kit.



Here is a look at the structure. Now here is one of the tricky parts, the balsa wood needs to hold the pearwood in place while gluing but can't get glued on themselves. So I used woodworking double sided tape to keep everything in place and separate.



The most important part of this building was making sure that the blocks we're level and even on both sides of the keel. The best way to achieve this was leveling out the transom wing some with some sanding and a level and then using the same strip of 1/8 balsa for all the spacers.



The completed structure dry fitted. Now at this point I should have cut these strips smaller, they were way too long for where they were. I didn't realize that at this point, which was too bad. But live and learn.



After a good bit of sanding with the Dremel and by hand here is the end result. Now it's not completely done. This only takes into account the angle of the final rib, not the downward angle from the transom wing to the keel. I will complete that as the structure is closer to being finished because I need to be more sure of the direction.



Here is where I had the most trouble. After gluing in the lower (or upper since we're upside down) I moved on to putting in these pieces. Man, I knew this would be difficult but I had hoped to avoid breaking pieces. I broke 3 of them. I was able to get them glued in place after some moving things around. The post helps keep things in place. To keep the post in place I used zip ties, unusual maybe but they exert exactly the right amount of pressure to keep things in place without breaking anything.

.

There won't be anymore sanding of anything until I get the rest of the support structure built around this. While I did get the broken pieces to glue to the bar and to each other I can just see more of it breaking while sanding. So once I have everything finally in place I'll sand and fix things up. For now though everything looks exactly as it should according to the plans.

 

[Norway]

Good progress, this method I will also use, good explanation and informative pictures, greetings-

 

[Gventura]

Well, I lied. I said I wasn't going to do any shaping of the transom until later but I found out it's actually a decently solid structure once the glue dried so I went for it.



There is dry glue in some places but it'll get sanded away. The fun thing about pearwood is that it looks like different colors depending on what stage of finishing it's in. So even though the entire ship is the same wood, different pieces have different sanding grits take to them and there's some color variations.

In terms of the transom I think it came out nicely. For comparison sake, here is what it looked like after i glued the pieces in vs how it is now.



Obviously a lesson to learn here is that the wood pieces I used were too thick depth wise and a bit too long width wise. But the height was perfect. So it took a little extra sanding but its good. The import part, which I didn't realize before and is the reason why I made the depth mistake is that these pieces should end at the rabbit line. Once I knew that it made shaping much easier.

The next piece to be done was the last piece of the stern framing. The second timber that goes across the stern and acts as the base of planking. This piece is evil. The piece must be square to start, then because of the odd curve needs to be cut to match the curve and then notches removed at an angle so the timber sits at a 90° from the jig and roughly a 45° from the framing it's glued too.

Here is what I ended up with. And a mistake was made, tho not obviously until I fitted it. I used a mix of Dremel bits and blades to cut out those notches. I started with a 1/4 x 1/8 strip and put a cut out of the template on top.



It looks close enough. But here is where the mistake was made.



The piece wasn't deep enough. It sits at the correct angles and has been shaped right, but it doesn't come out far enough. Now I considered redoing it but this piece is going to be covered by planking on the stern and the inside is correct, so moving on.

Looking at plate 2 the next step in the framing is adding in the supports. Before I put the last support in I need to get a copy of plate 2, I thought I had one, but I need one so I can cut out pieces to use as a template for the next steps. Like finding where exactly the last frame goes.



The last thing I did and probably the last step for a couple days was finally attaching the false keel. Now technically I think you were supposed to attach this way long ago, in fact I think it's supposed to be one of the first steps. But way back when I didn't have the ebony piece and once I had it I didn't want to damage it. So I waited until I was finished using the keel to hold things and put it in place tonight.



After measuring and cutting it to length (it was already the correct depth) I glued it in place. Because I didn't do this early on I can't use a clamp, so my zip ties come in handy once again!



Zip tied it all in place. Now the strip will need some shaping/sanding in the stern where the keel comes to a taper and in the bow we're the keel was sanded down a little lower. But I really love the ebony on pearwood. I this is just the first of many locations where the ebony will be used.

 

[Gventura]

Not much work done today. Did some sanding to the false keel and got that shaped properly. Also cleaned up the frame with some water; for two reasons, wanted to get all the fine saw dust off and put of the cracks and wanted to see the difference between natural and what it may look like with a sealent or coat or varnish on it.



Still haven't decided which way I'll go yet. Technically I could wait until the end to put a coat of anything on, but the further I get I think the less likely it becomes I put anything on. The natural look is still quite nice, and it'll change a bit more once I take a fine grit to sand it.

In preparation of the next portion of work I made a new template guide. I scanned in the master plan of the stern of the ship and did some editing of it. Printed and mounted it to so balsa wood.



It is double sided, I made a reverse of the scan so I could glue it to both sides. It's nice to see it on the framing and see that it more or less all lines up. Next I'll start cutting down the template layer by later and place the necessary marks on the framing for the wales and the different locations of pieces that need removing. I also have one last piece to add into the transom structure to complete it.

 

[Uwek]

Your water treatment is showing how wonderful and beautiful wood can be - very good progress

 

[stuglo]

Not much work done today. Did some sanding to the false keel and got that shaped properly. Also cleaned up the frame with some water; for two reasons, wanted to get all the fine saw dust off and put of the cracks and wanted to see the difference between natural and what it may look like with a sealent or coat or varnish on it.

View attachment 133506

Still haven't decided which way I'll go yet. Technically I could wait until the end to put a coat of anything on, but the further I get I think the less likely it becomes I put anything on. The natural look is still quite nice, and it'll change a bit more once I take a fine grit to sand it.

In preparation of the next portion of work I made a new template guide. I scanned in the master plan of the stern of the ship and did some editing of it. Printed and mounted it to so balsa wood.

View attachment 133507 View attachment 133508

It is double sided, I made a reverse of the scan so I could glue it to both sides. It's nice to see it on the framing and see that it more or less all lines up. Next I'll start cutting down the template layer by later and place the necessary marks on the framing for the wales and the different locations of pieces that need removing. I also have one last piece to add into the transom structure to complete it.

may I suggest applying almost boiling water with an ear bud - particularly good to "fill-up"dents.

 

[Jimsky]

may I suggest applying almost boiling water with an ear bud - particularly good to "fill-up"dents.

Many thanks for the tip @stuglo Sounds an interesting technique, can you elaborate on the process, please? If possible to show us pictures: before and after applying 'hot' water treatment.

 

[stuglo]

Many thanks for the tip @stuglo Sounds an interesting technique, can you elaborate on the process, please? If possible to show us pictures: before and after applying 'hot' water treatment.

Just to demonstrate, hit wood with hammer(first too enthusiastically) apply near-boiling water with bud and in this case, dried with hairdryer as 1)impatient 2) not needed a hair dryer for the usual purpose for many years

 

[Jimsky]

Many thanks, Stuglo.

 

[Gventura]

Fun times making marks on the hull. I cut the template on each of the necessary lines for marking.

Wale line:



Bottoms of the cut outs in the ribs:



Where the ribs will be separated from the jig:




I didn't plan on doing this all just yet but I needed to locate where the extra timber support went in the stern and that required some marks, so I just did all of them. Here is where the final framing timbers go. Lots of cutting of that horizontal one and hoping it doesn't break or pop out.



With both sides on place there is noticable hangover, which is good as it turns out. On the inside you can see the horizontal timber also extends across rib 3 for support. This extra amount is also how I determined how deep the vertical timber was set.



To finish up the structure there needed to be some fillers put in place.







Compared to the plans I think my transom is a little wider than it should be, perhaps. But there's not a lot I can do about that. With the filler everything looks pretty flush so I think it'll work just fine.



A little more sanding to do to wrap up here and then moving on.