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HIGH HOPES, WILD MEN AND THE DEVIL’S JAW - Willem Barentsz Kolderstok 1:50

Heinrich, you have succeeded! And it looks absolutely wonderful. The wood tones and the curves are a delight to the eyes. Even the heavy grain works to your advantage as it highlights the curviness rather than running against it (I trust that was intentional rather than being a happy coincidence). A one of a kind ship being built by a one of a kind builder. Who couldn't fall in love with that? Congratulations on what you have accomplished thus far.
My dear Paul - thank you so much - I do believe you know by now how much I appreciate that coming from you. I am very happy with where I am, but I cannot relax completely until I have test-fitted the deck and installed the capping rails to get a real idea of how the hull's curvature shapes up. As far as the planks being pre-selected for the pattern of the wood grain - you give me far too much credit! ROTF I would have loved to say it was, but even here I try to build as the Dutch built - whatever plank comes next! Thank you again for your very kind words - they serve as great motivation!
 
Thank you very much Jan! The capping rails are going to be the acid test though - first to pre-bend them and secondly, to get them to fit properly so that they follow the same line on both Port and Starboard sides.
I imagine that the oak will resist all your bending attempts as much as possible. I've soaked and bent the the same piece of walnut several times this morning and it's back in the sink soaking again. So In look forward to your "technique".
 
Bending oak caprails edgewise seems impossible to me. Will they be in walnut?
Very, good question Paul. Thumbsup If you order the WB in oak and do not use walnut, the cap rails will be in oak and must be 2mm x 3mm. Imagine bending 2mm oak edgewise. However, because I used walnut for the wales, I can go with walnut cap railings and because of the "false wale", I can get away with 1mm x 3mm as they are glued directly on top of the false wale. I really tried to think of everything with this build and your question was one that played a role in incorporating the walnut in the build. :D
 
I imagine that the oak will resist all your bending attempts as much as possible. I've soaked and bent the the same piece of walnut several times this morning and it's back in the sink soaking again. So In look forward to your "technique".
Jan, see my reply to Paul as well. Yes, my friend - planking a WB gives you a workout! The upshot is that you feel like a real master shipwright in miniature! :D
 
@Pathfinder65 Jan, this is my idea of bending the cap rails. First attempt in progress.

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This is the 1mm x 3mm walnut plank which I'm doing a trial run on. For the thicker plank you can always add dowels alongside the inside curve of the deck sheeting to run your plank around. That is of course provided that you use a building board or proper worktable into which you can drill holes and not the dining room table like I am doing now. :D
 
@Pathfinder65 Jan, this is my idea of bending the cap rails. First attempt in progress.

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This is the 1mm x 3mm walnut plank which I'm doing a trial run on. For the thicker plank you can always add dowels alongside the inside curve of the deck sheeting to run your plank around. That is of course provided that you use a building board or proper worktable into which you can drill holes and not the dining room table like I am doing now. :D
That looks like a great idea. Instead of drilling holes in the Admiral's dining room table (OH BOY I would be toast :eek::eek::eek:. That table is a family pass me down) Yup, I'd rubber glue that outline to a board and drill holes in the board for pegs. I did that on my Enterprise build to bend the cap rails into shape.
 
That looks like a great idea. Instead of drilling holes in the Admiral's dining room table (OH BOY I would be toast :eek::eek::eek:. That table is a family pass me down) Yup, I'd rubber glue that outline to a board and drill holes in the board for pegs. I did that on my Enterprise build to bend the cap rails into shape.
OK - so then my idea is not too far off. Jan, to answer you about the "false wale" (I call it that for lack of a better word) - yes, it's the fourth one or top one on my picture. Kolderstok's plans call for a 2mm x 3mm strip to be glued horizontally on top of the last 4mm plank. That means that you have a 2mm thick "wale" on which the upper planking takes place. However, if you look at Ab's build, you will see that he used a conventional plank which results in a much "thicker"-looking wale. As I say, it's not a real wale - more of a division between the above and below-wale planking.

Barents-03.jpg
The four "wales" The sentence that was cut off should read: "apparently the same size as the 3rd."

Barents-09.jpg
And on the finished model.

Both these pictures are from the book by @Ab Hoving "Het Schip van Willem Barents".
 
I am happy conclude a nerve-wracking few days in the shipyard.

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The final plank on starboard side has been laid down.

Which was then doubled as the "false wale".

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To say that I am happy with the way that the wales meet at the bow would be an understatement. :) (I do permit myself a small smile)

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Port side reminder.

Yes, but how level are the bulwarks now after all these planks have been laid and all the conniving with hull lines ?

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Bow - Check.

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Midships - Check

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Stern - Check

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This drawing by De Veer shows the objectives of this part of the build.

Green: The more rounded bow.
Red: The upsept wales which create a "pinched" effect of the hull (Yellow)
Blue: A more substantial (higher) buildup of the bulwarks above deck level at the bow.

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Have I succeeded? I leave that to you to decide.
Dear Heinrich
You can and should be proud of your work, it is extremely accurate and will lead you to an impressive and high quality model :) Okay
 
Dear Heinrich
You can and should be proud of your work, it is extremely accurate and will lead you to an impressive and high quality model :) Okay
Thank you so much for the very kind comments, my dear friend. It is sincerely appreciated!
 
OK - so then my idea is not too far off. Jan, to answer you about the "false wale" (I call it that for lack of a better word) - yes, it's the fourth one or top one on my picture. Kolderstok's plans call for a 2mm x 3mm strip to be glued horizontally on top of the last 4mm plank. That means that you have a 2mm thick "wale" on which the upper planking takes place. However, if you look at Ab's build, you will see that he used a conventional plank which results in a much "thicker"-looking wale. As I say, it's not a real wale - more of a division between the above and below-wale planking.

View attachment 320208
The four "wales" The sentence that was cut off should read: "apparently the same size as the 3rd."

View attachment 320209
And on the finished model.

Both these pictures are from the book by @Ab Hoving "Het Schip van Willem Barents".
Hmm I'm a little confused. Above the third wale you laid two more 1.5 X 4 mm planks and added the "false wale" to the last plank versus the 2mm X 3mm plank??
 
Hmm I'm a little confused. Above the third wale you laid two more 1.5 X 4 mm planks and added the "false wale" to the last plank versus the 2mm X 3mm plank??
No, I doubled the first 4mm plank into the third wale; then the second 4mm plank and then doubled the third one into the false wale. I have made many changes which I do not post because it would just be confusing.
 
This is almost like watching grass grow (or my Bluenose...)
Still, your patience is paying dividends.
When looking at the planking, especially the oak planks, isn't the woodgrain way too coarse? Or will this effect be softened after applying the finish you have in mind?
Hello Johan. I am not sure what exactly it is that you are referring to as being like watching grass growing ;) . According to Hans, he sources the oak from a company who uses it for furniture so I would guess that it is a relatively fine-grained oak as far as oak goes. Whether or not it is too coarse for model building, I have no idea - I suppose it comes to down individual taste. At this early stage of the build, I have not given any thought to what finish I will apply - I have shellac, Clou stain, Tung Oil or polyurethane varnish to choose from, but I have not yet made any tests. Whether it will soften, or highlight the grain, remains to be seen.
 
I am not sure what exactly it is that you are referring to as being like watching grass growing ;)
It's a Dutch saying to emphasize the lack of speed in a process. Don't you have a South African equivalent?
Your planking process of the WB can ge characterized as very concensious, very well thought out and taking nothing for Granted. If necessary you've also shown to be willing to take a step or two backwards.
Result: a slow build process, but with high rewards.
 
Whether or not it is too coarse for model building, I have no idea - I suppose it comes to down individual taste. At this early stage of the build, I have not given any thought to what finish I will apply - I have shellac, Clou stain, Tung Oil or polyurethane varnish to choose from, but I have not yet made any tests. Whether it will soften, or highlight the grain, remains to be seen.
Not only going for the highest possible quality standard, but also willing to take a risk.
I am looking forward to see the outcome of all your hard work.
 
It's a Dutch saying to emphasize the lack of speed in a process. Don't you have a South African equivalent?
Your planking process of the WB can ge characterized as very concensious, very well thought out and taking nothing for Granted. If necessary you've also shown to be willing to take a step or two backwards.
Result: a slow build process, but with high rewards.
Okiedokie - now I am with you! I suppose in English they will say, "It's like watching paint dry.". Thank you for the kind words, Johan. I must tell you that your comments on the roundness of the bow as well as @Pter Peter's, have led me to revisit the bow at the hand of the De Veer drawings. I have tried to maintain the upswept wales but create a more rounded, less race yacht-like bow.
 
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