HMB ENDEAVOUR - New 1/65 Artesania Latina Model

Hi Peter, how did you make the mice at the fore stays? I am at the point where I will be attaching these lines and would be interested to learn how you made them.
Your model is looking very good.
Trevor
Morn, This info was published some ago here, but here I will attach it again
Hi Peter, how did you make the mice at the fore stays? I am at the point where I will be attaching these lines and would be interested to learn how you made them.
Your model is looking very good.
Trevor
Hallo Morn von Spanien. I have tried to send you a private conversation, but it did not work. although it has been published somewhere some time ago - maybe under tools- I will attach some info in fig. 2 and 4 you have what is needed. nº3 is mainly used in the leather industry and by shoemakers to make holes. the wheel can tut¡rn around. each pin has a different diameter. now as in fig2. you will have a mala and female part with the same diameter. the male goes through the pined hole and adds the female par. press it well with the tool. in the drawing, in Spanish, each of the 3`points is called puno. if any doubt come bach over the letterbox : el capi - ein rictige schonen tag von ie asaonnen Kuste

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Hi Peter, how did you make the mice at the fore stays? I am at the point where I will be attaching these lines and would be interested to learn how you made them.
Your model is looking very good.
Trevor
Trevor, The first one I centre drilled 1.2mm (for the served 0.9mm Ropes of Scale stay) then turned a piece of 3mm dowel down to size and shape. I glued this to the stay then served over it. The next ones I simply makes the position then served back and forward to make the shape (a little lazy I guess).
 
Thank you for your reply. I probably set my question out unclearly. I meant the mice at the preventer stays, as shown in the image below. I believe each mast has two mice.

Trevor

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Morn. Ich habe dir misverstand. Hofe was kommt is besser- el capi.Ich persönlich habe Ich in stuck von ein Bleistift gemacht. the inner Bleistift ausgepustet, und tan mit ein messer die richtige form gemacht. It war sneller in der Schule, wo wie ein geraet zu the spitze de Bleistift zu machen-viel spass
Trevor, The first one I centre drilled 1.2mm (for the served 0.9mm Ropes of Scale stay) then turned a piece of 3mm dowel down to size and shape. I glued this to the stay then served over it. The next ones I simply makes the position then served back and forward to make the shape (a little lazy I guess).
well done trevor. in the question von Peter I misunderstood the message

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Peter, El Capi,
Many thanks for your responses. I am now much clearer as what is required to manufacture the mice and how to go about the task.
@ El Capi - where did you learn German? At school, did you live here in Germany? Wo hast du Deutsch gelernt? In der Schule oder hier in Deutschland?

Trevor
 
Peter, El Capi,
Many thanks for your responses. I am now much clearer as what is required to manufacture the mice and how to go about the task.
@ El Capi - where did you learn German? At school, did you live here in Germany? Wo hast du Deutsch gelernt? In der Schule oder hier in Deutschland?

Trevor
Halo.
ein Ich geboren am Nord West Küste ·Dänemark". Mein erster Deutz habe Ich in Schule gelagert bist
Ich 15 Jahre alt war,. Dan faenghe Ish zum Molkei Lerling im Dorf- Blokhus.dk -

Damals faengte den Deutschen Turnismos auf Blokhus mit 8' km. Strand mit einigen FKK-Zonen. Die Turisten war eisten ehemalige deutsche Soldaten die Blokhus war unten Kurtz nach den Krieg fast keine Leute die Deuts verstanden konnte. , also hier habe geholfen geholfen.

touristen krieg meistens von den ruhrgebiet. Dan später. habe Zeit 1978 habe ich in Spanien gewohnt.

aber ich bin ein richtiges Nordseeman. in Blokhus geboren in einer großen Seemannsfamilie-6 Onkel , 2 Tanten verheiratet, die alles was mit fishery. jetzt wohne ich am Malaga kyste-1000 m. enfer von den Mittelmeer. Ich spreche natürlich Dänisch (norwegisch und schwedisch) Englisch und Spanisch

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Fore and Main Masts 'fitted' with shrouds and forestays. Mizzen in place but I am waiting for my Ropes of Scale 0.6/0.7/0.8mm order to get the mizzen shrouds and stays done. Meanwhile I am continuing progress on the cannons and the yards. Spritsail yards are complete awaiting painting as are the Foremast yards.
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Peter, You are building at an incredible rate. The old barky is looking good! Sharp rigging ;)
 
Peter, You are building at an incredible rate. The old barky is looking good! Sharp rigging ;)
Its nice working with good materials. I expect the 'ropes' to arrive shortly but I have plenty of other things to get on with like cannons, external steps, small hull hatches etc. I should have done my rigging calculations and ordering early. Have made up a table now to help future builds get the right size rigging for the right rigging component for any specific scale of model based upon the rigging tables in use. Prototype column in inches (circumference), scale columns in millimetres (diameter).
I was initially surmised to see how much rotation occurred in the ropes when tensioned, but then in hindsight, one should expect such rotation in rope rather than thread. I have learned that putting the lashing through one hole in each shroud and fixed deadeyes then pulling tight will identify the rotation and then finishing the lashing with the shroud deadeye in that specific rotational position will keep the deadeyes and lashing aligned once the lashing is complete.

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Just finished turning u the yards and the topgallant mast for the main. The main yard for the foremast was made following the Artesania instructions (two piece: turned section and the hexagonal centre slid on). This time I went u a size of dowel, made the hexagonal section then turned down the rest in the mini lathe. I did the same for the topgallant mast filing the square base and hexagonal section before turning down.
There is still some cleaning up to do and I need to turn the studdingsail booms to shape as well.
All that left is the Mizzen topmast, gaff and the other various studdingsail booms and then I can put the lathe away till the next ship project.

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Another kit compromise overcome with some scratch building. The yoke on the gaff was a 2mm laser cut piece with barrel rope holes in the wrong plane. It also didn't account for the angle of the gaff nor its correct thickness so using the laser cut piece as a pattern I made up 7mm of kit ply then sanded back to shape before sanding in the angle. I also cut a V and sanded the gaff to a point for the joint. Still some fine sanding to go and some rings to fit but I'm happy with the handiwork

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Another kit compromise overcome with some scratch building. The yoke on the gaff was a 2mm laser cut piece with barrel rope holes in the wrong plane. It also didn't account for the angle of the gaff nor its correct thickness so using the laser cut piece as a pattern I made up 7mm of kit ply then sanded back to shape before sanding in the angle. I also cut a V and sanded the gaff to a point for the joint. Still some fine sanding to go and some rings to fit but I'm happy with the handiwork

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really doing it, WELL and more important correctly
 
Another kit compromise overcome with some scratch building. The yoke on the gaff was a 2mm laser cut piece with barrel rope holes in the wrong plane. It also didn't account for the angle of the gaff nor its correct thickness so using the laser cut piece as a pattern I made up 7mm of kit ply then sanded back to shape before sanding in the angle. I also cut a V and sanded the gaff to a point for the joint. Still some fine sanding to go and some rings to fit but I'm happy with the handiwork

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Hi Peter,

The yoke of the gaffel in my Endeavour kit from Occre has the same problem. I binned the piece of aluminium supplied with the kit and made my own.
See my post here:

Trevor.
 
Hi Peter,

The yoke of the gaffel in my Endeavour kit from Occre has the same problem. I binned the piece of aluminium supplied with the kit and made my own.
See my post here:

Trevor.
To me it is wrong: In my Altaya/ DeAgostine the were 3 heavy mistakes, and a lot of travel and other problems, I felt in them. Result: After 6 months I dismantled the total and it went into the bin. There is no way that, what you called the" Yoke ·can survive a strong wind with such a small. I have more than 200 images, and until now i have never seen that Riggen. there is two Square sail on the bowsprit. then 1 jib, going from that. between fore and main mast two triangle sails -Latiner or staysail . The Mizzen mast has one or in other cases two Squersail above the spanger. No Squersail on the Lower Yard on the Mesan or Mizzen mast

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All the main timber work is now made; a couple of studdingsail booms and spare spars/yards to go on the rack still to be made.
Now time to start pre-rigging the yards with the various blocks, fitting the rest of the standing rigging and getting the yards slung before moving onto the running rigging.

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To me it is wrong: In my Altaya/ DeAgostine the were 3 heavy mistakes, and a lot of travel and other problems, I felt in them. Result: After 6 months I dismantled the total and it went into the bin. There is no way that, what you called the" Yoke ·can survive a strong wind with such a small. I have more than 200 images, and until now i have never seen that Riggen. there is two Square sail on the bowsprit. then 1 jib, going from that. between fore and main mast two triangle sails -Latiner or staysail . The Mizzen mast has one or in other cases two Squersail above the spanger. No Squersail on the Lower Yard on the Mesan or Mizzen mast

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All the main timber work is now made; a couple of studdingsail booms and spare spars/yards to go on the rack still to be made.
Now time to start pre-rigging the yards with the various blocks, fitting the rest of the standing rigging and getting the yards slung before moving onto the running rigging.

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SORRY PETER. The images are from my build of Soleil Royal and are meant mainly for our college in France- Gilbert Soleil Royal ZHL, and for you. SORRY AGAIN. JUST DELETE THEM.
I HAVE NOW TAKEN A hard DECISION to give up being a member here and totally everything about model building. On June 1Th I have 60 years anniversary of building in wood and 80 years old, so it is time to go- the images are NORSKE LOVE 1973 AND VICTORY 1978- BOTH "NOT" LASER CUT.
my wife with our 1 year daughter 1974
,

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Foremast Lower yard rigged. Took a good 9 hours for the 20 blocks plus serving of stirrups and pendants.I haven't rigged the clew-garnet and yard block yet. Disregard the red coloured coding. It was my original estimate of block size in mm: most of the 3mm blocks were upsized to 4mm.
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