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HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)
You need one of these: Ring Light
Thank you. A good drill and the right speed will produce good holes. I have so many drills that it's more than enough.I think your idea for the limited planking is a wonderful idea !
I'm amazed you are able to get such clean holes from a regular twist drill !
Brad Point drill bits will give you a much cleaner hole.You might look into some.
I thought about it, but my keel is 5mm and my propeller is 3mm, and there's no way to fit anything between them because the keel is physically too big. But my keel will be buried in the column, and its sides will be firmly clamped to the sides. Plus, I'll be making temporary stops for the sides during rigging to make sure nothing gets damaged. But thanks for the caution.
Thanks, but I forgot about that.
I bought bearings and a ruler, but I forgot about the light. I'll have to think about it.Brass columns with the side reinforcement you want to use work very well. In case of heavy frigate where i used it, there are additional copper plates that also reinforce the keel. It's also 5mm wide, drilled 4mm, and the column holds it without a problem.
In the previous model, when i drilled a 3mm hole directly onto the 5mm keel, something went wrong. Then i overtightened one of the lines, and the keel also snapped from the tension.
It had to happen once to know what to watch out for.
Now I know...
In the previous model, when i drilled a 3mm hole directly onto the 5mm keel, something went wrong. Then i overtightened one of the lines, and the keel also snapped from the tension.
It had to happen once to know what to watch out for.
Now I know...
You have skills Sergey. Once again thank you for the informative log. I don’t stop learning reading your account. Cheers Grant
Yes, when the keel is clamped laterally, the risk of breakage is minimal. I'll go into more detail when the time comes to perform these manipulations. Your mistakes always teach you the best lessons; I've often found that out.
Thank you very much for the praise. I will continue in the same spirit.
My router bearings finally arrived, but I still need to install them. In the meantime, I decided to practice nailing and drilling for bolts, and making the bolts themselves...
I've already talked about this...
Nailing is easy here:
1 - Mark, 2 - Prick with a needle (along the distance guide from the edge of the board), 3 - Drill with a 5mm drill, 4 - Trim the inserted sharpened toothpick (naturally, along the length guide), 5 - Lightly round off the remaining protruding end with 1000-grit sandpaper so that the rounded edge protrudes from the surface.
But the bolts will require some fiddling...
1 - same pencil markings, 2 - prick, 3 - then drill with a 0.8 mm drill to the desired depth, 4 - drill with a 1 mm drill to the thickness of the board (I'll explain why below), 5 - then trim the inserted millimeter wire (all according to the template, so that all protruding edges are the same length and needed for the next step), 6 - shape the wire into a bolt with a special cup drill (I also mentioned this earlier).
So, here's the result and the obvious mistakes:
You can achieve a consistent shape, but you should avoid the following mistakes:
The center may shift laterally if the tool is positioned incorrectly during operation. It's best to place the drill cup on the wire and run the micromotor at low speed. This way, you can monitor the shift and prevent the center from shifting.
Plunging too deep, or not deep enough, is also unsightly. Or the distance from the edge of the board is not the same.
But the worst thing is when the hole is larger than the wire, as this will leave a stain when bitumen gets into the hole. I initially drilled with a 1 mm drill bit, but even at low speeds, the slightest movement of the hand and the sharp drill bit widened the hole. To prevent this, I first drill with a 0.8 mm drill bit and then, using a quick, shallow drill bit, duplicate the hole with a 1 mm drill bit. This way, the hole is the right size and the wire doesn't wobble in it.
Yes, in theory, you could find a 0.9mm drill bit and then try inserting the wire, but I tested it—the only repeatable option is: 0.8mm, then 1mm to a shallow depth with a quick motion.
Although I'll tell you a secret, from a distance, nothing is noticeable, and any defects are simply invisible... My wife teases me, "Who's going to see anything there except you?"... but in a macro photo, it's visible... so I'll do it beautifully.
I've already talked about this...
Nailing is easy here:
1 - Mark, 2 - Prick with a needle (along the distance guide from the edge of the board), 3 - Drill with a 5mm drill, 4 - Trim the inserted sharpened toothpick (naturally, along the length guide), 5 - Lightly round off the remaining protruding end with 1000-grit sandpaper so that the rounded edge protrudes from the surface.
But the bolts will require some fiddling...
1 - same pencil markings, 2 - prick, 3 - then drill with a 0.8 mm drill to the desired depth, 4 - drill with a 1 mm drill to the thickness of the board (I'll explain why below), 5 - then trim the inserted millimeter wire (all according to the template, so that all protruding edges are the same length and needed for the next step), 6 - shape the wire into a bolt with a special cup drill (I also mentioned this earlier).
So, here's the result and the obvious mistakes:
You can achieve a consistent shape, but you should avoid the following mistakes:
The center may shift laterally if the tool is positioned incorrectly during operation. It's best to place the drill cup on the wire and run the micromotor at low speed. This way, you can monitor the shift and prevent the center from shifting.
Plunging too deep, or not deep enough, is also unsightly. Or the distance from the edge of the board is not the same.
But the worst thing is when the hole is larger than the wire, as this will leave a stain when bitumen gets into the hole. I initially drilled with a 1 mm drill bit, but even at low speeds, the slightest movement of the hand and the sharp drill bit widened the hole. To prevent this, I first drill with a 0.8 mm drill bit and then, using a quick, shallow drill bit, duplicate the hole with a 1 mm drill bit. This way, the hole is the right size and the wire doesn't wobble in it.
Yes, in theory, you could find a 0.9mm drill bit and then try inserting the wire, but I tested it—the only repeatable option is: 0.8mm, then 1mm to a shallow depth with a quick motion.
Although I'll tell you a secret, from a distance, nothing is noticeable, and any defects are simply invisible... My wife teases me, "Who's going to see anything there except you?"... but in a macro photo, it's visible... so I'll do it beautifully.
.
You use tricks that are employed in professional machine cutting. Pre-drilling a hole, then reaming it to size. Truly elegant work. Congratulations
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