HMS Diana by Caldercraft

To install the gratings you must remove (saw through) the support beams. I have made evil a virtue and placed them as a support and they are still visible....
:)
I also milled out half cavities in the 1 x 3 mm walnut beams (for the cannon balls). But after 4 attempts I couldn't get everything lined up perfectly...so not perfect...right?

Diana528.jpg

Diana529.jpg

Diana530.jpg

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Dear Jutar,

Again thx for your remark.. ;)
I didn't know this because I followed the instructions as attached....eg the wrong building instruction...
I will apply this methode for the main deck. For the gun deck, eg for conformity I will maintain this wrong methode...

Cheers...

Diana532.jpg
 
I followed the instructions as attached
It is usually a good idea to research everything, especially that which is found in many kits to confirm or correct the information they provide. Looking at the picture you posted, not only are the gratings drawings wrong as iutar shows, the spread and thickness of the carriage brackets and trucks don't look right Round numbers, the thickness of the brackets and trucks is pretty much the same as the caliber and the barrel barely clears the insides of the brackets. For the 18 pounders that Diana carried on the gun deck this would be about 5.3 inches and for the 9 pounders on the QD and FC it would be about 4.25 inches. If your library of books does not cover something there are a LOT of experienced builders here at SoS that have done thousands of hours of research that would be more than willing to help .....you need only ask. :)
Allan
 
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Allan,
Thanks for your comments.
I am aware that the plans in the construction kits are not without errors. Naturally, the question arises whether you should question everything...apparently yes?
The Diana is my last step in preparation to make a model from scratch myself (similar to what Mustafa (Mtbediz1) makes). So I am indeed trying to learn as much as possible and I will certainly not hesitate to ask questions...
But what is wrong or incorrect on the plans in the kit?

Hard to ask a question if you don't know it's wrong... :)
 
У меня первый вопрос: корабельная печь.

Была ли печь установлена непосредственно на деревянном настиле или на каменном основании?

Dear Fly! Metal stoves of the period under review could have a brick, ceramic or sheet metal pedestal. I have noticed that archival drawings often show brick lining, as in the examples below. A ceramic or iron substrate would be thin.

гбббб.jpg

кук.jpg

Туртерель (2).jpg
пь.jpg

Drawings for the Artois-class frigates also showed a thick furnace lining. So there may have been either a brick or ceramic fireproof surface. The choice is yours!


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For a good mood:

Ласселлес_(1779)_RMG_J0585.png

Огневой_очаг_для_36_пушечных_кораблей_(1780)_RMG_J7597.png


печь_nmm01.jpg.2e3e902f5d79afcdd758f71bb9aef509.jpg

пост-246-0-48131300-1435194456_thumb.jpg

плита00.png.b79da4a6df39f6f05b8add5462cbecc6.png

hms-victory (1) — копия.jpg

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Dear Fly! I would recommend showing brickwork as the most common. The Artois class blueprint allows this. In any case, there must be fire protection.


25_DSC_7511 — копия — копия.jpg

:):):)
 
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This has been an interesting read. Your main task seems to have been resolving the contradictions between the kit instructions, the kit plans, other plans and documents, the advice of your readers and your own enjoyment. ROTF

You are producing a fine model!
 
But what is wrong or incorrect on the plans in the kit?
From what I can see in the portion of the plans that you posted, the gratings, coamings, head ledges, cannon and carriages are wrong.
Naturally, the question arises whether you should question everything...apparently yes?
Many builders just want to enjoy building the model and do not care about accuracy, which is fine. This is a hobby for most members so there are really no rules. What makes you or any of us happy is the route to take. To answer your question, if you are interested in accuracy, yes absolutely question everything. Cross checking is never a bad idea.
Allan
 
For me it is not only to build a kit alone. I am very interested in the historical construction concept of medieval sailing ships: the interest probably comes from the fact that my grandfather had his own company making wooden furniture...about 100 years ago...
what I find strange here is that the oven is placed between the forward riding bitt assembly?! So actually a very big limitation in terms of space, not to mention the large ropes that are attached to the bitt assembly.

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The anchor rope always ran along the outside of the bitts. So it doesn't interfere.
 
Is there anyone who can please explain to me how to make that spiral with the Rope?


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Hi Mark, there are many ways to do it: One of the ways, simple enough, is to use double-sticky tape. One end affix to a flat surface, on the top side pierce the hole with a sewing pin, then wind the rope around this pin. The rope will stick to the tape. Once you have made enough coil, glue the assembly with 50% diluted PVA glue.
 
The above respones are great and should give you enough information for the coils. Keep in mind this was never done except maybe when the ship was being reviewed/inspected by senior officers so if you are not comfortable making the coils you might prefer having the guns brought in and frap the lines as was normally done when not in action. When the guns were run out and ready to fire no one had time to make perfect coils, although they do look nice. :)

This is addressed to Caldercraft, not you HMSFLY. I really hope they see this post. Square axles?? What more can I say?
Fortunately, there is an easy way to fix this almost instantaneously if anyone prefers round axles for the carriage trucks. This has been shown a few times at SoS but for those who have not seen it the following may be of interest.
https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/...y-modelship-dockyard.13691/page-5#post-394385 post #91

FWIW, both the width of the trucks and the thickness of the brackets are the same as the diameter of the bore on any given English gun. Hopefully the parts are the right size even though the drawings are wrong.
Allan
 
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Hi Mark, there are many ways to do it: One of the ways, simple enough, is to use double-sticky tape. One end affix to a flat surface, on the top side pierce the hole with a sewing pin, then wind the rope around this pin. The rope will stick to the tape. Once you have made enough coil, glue the assembly with 50% diluted PVA glue.
Dear Jim,

Thx for your advise.. I will try it!

Cheers

Marc
 
Dear Allan

Interesting comment.
I'm not really looking forward to putting these ropes in a spiral. What was the right way (in the past)? Drawing or photo?

Marc
 
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