Your binnacle and ships wheel both look great.
The whole build remains excellent and will be a source of guidance for me when I do my Diana.
Happy New Year to Marc.
HMS Diana by Caldercraft
- Thread starter HMSFly
- Start date
- Watchers 29
-
- Tags
- caldercraft diana
The whole build remains excellent and will be a source of guidance for me when I do my Diana.
Happy New Year to Marc.
I really like that you tied the binnacle down as was done back in the day. Nicely done!Am a (little) bit disappointed....
Nobody noticed my compass house....
Allan
Hello everybody !
I'm back in business after the Holidays (with far too much food...
)
First off all: I wish everyone a happy and healthy 2025. And have fun with our beautiful hobby!
First some photo's of the Guns...
Nest step was installing the Fore, Main and Mizzen channels .
But again there are ambiguities in the drawings!
On the drawings 13 brackets are shown (eg 26 in total needed). However in the kit are only 11 for each side delivered....(so only 22 delivered).
So finally I installed the 11 ones but does not know if I should make the missing ones myself and add them or?
Suggestions?
And as earlier mentioned I added Sheaves instead drilling simple holes in the Hull.
I added a sheave for the main brace and a second one for the main sheet.
PS
PS normally I would make a rectangular border around the Sheave to finish everything off neatly. But there is not enough space to install this neatly so I just placed the Sheaves in the openings.
Remains again the following Question:
There are two holes specified: one for the spritsail and the second for the foresheet. Should I also be provided with sheaves here?
If you want to drill once it is too late..
I'm back in business after the Holidays (with far too much food...
)First off all: I wish everyone a happy and healthy 2025. And have fun with our beautiful hobby!
First some photo's of the Guns...
Nest step was installing the Fore, Main and Mizzen channels .
But again there are ambiguities in the drawings!
On the drawings 13 brackets are shown (eg 26 in total needed). However in the kit are only 11 for each side delivered....(so only 22 delivered).
So finally I installed the 11 ones but does not know if I should make the missing ones myself and add them or?
Suggestions?
And as earlier mentioned I added Sheaves instead drilling simple holes in the Hull.
I added a sheave for the main brace and a second one for the main sheet.
PS
PS normally I would make a rectangular border around the Sheave to finish everything off neatly. But there is not enough space to install this neatly so I just placed the Sheaves in the openings.
Remains again the following Question:
There are two holes specified: one for the spritsail and the second for the foresheet. Should I also be provided with sheaves here?
If you want to drill once it is too late..
No lines ever passed through a plain hole. The wood and./or the line would wear very quickly, so yes, sheaves at the proper angle would be appropriate. Even the hawse holes had a lead lining to avoid wear on the wood.
Allan
Thx Allan,
Of course I will follow your advice....
But it is not obvious. There is little space to make two cavities next to each other. The cavities must be 4 mm long and 2 mm wide (the sheave is 2 mm in diameter)... Plus there is a cross beam on the inside of the Hull...
Additionally, I need to make the holes horizontally (because of the available space).
Fly (Vincent?? 
)
In the end, if you are going to rig her, the line will cover most of the area from sight. When the sheave blocks were put into the real ship the frames were notched to hold them as they would otherwise be in the way as you mention. A simple set up can be seen below prior to planking.
Allan
)In the end, if you are going to rig her, the line will cover most of the area from sight. When the sheave blocks were put into the real ship the frames were notched to hold them as they would otherwise be in the way as you mention. A simple set up can be seen below prior to planking.
Allan
Last edited:
Thx Allan,Fly (Vincent??
In the end, if you are going to rig her, the line will cover most of the area from sight. When the sheave blocks were put into the real ship the frames were notched to hold them as they would otherwise be in the way as you mention. A simple set up can be seen below prior to planking.
Allan
View attachment 493068
I agree, but I should have done this prior to planking. I missed this issue...
However, I did the following: see foto's
I'm happy with the result...
Hey Iutarn
Again I learned something from you.
I never was aware that eyebolts being attached with brackets to the Hull....
I meant Iron Knees.... but again the drawing is very confusing.....
I saw on one log I found on the net that our collegae made 15 Iron Knees...and attached them.
Allan, Iutar,
before making stupid things, another question: see drawing marked with pencil.
6 round scruppers should be placed on each side. Actually, according to the kit, glue a thin ring on the Hull. But it seems banal to me. I think holes were provided in the hull in the past... what is the function of suppers? Shouldn't I make holes (diameter 2 mm around which I glue the rings)?
Cheers
Marc (alais Fly)
before making stupid things, another question: see drawing marked with pencil.
6 round scruppers should be placed on each side. Actually, according to the kit, glue a thin ring on the Hull. But it seems banal to me. I think holes were provided in the hull in the past... what is the function of suppers? Shouldn't I make holes (diameter 2 mm around which I glue the rings)?
Cheers
Marc (alais Fly)
The scuppers were lined with lead to form something of a small pipe and flanged over if I remember correctly. Thick grey artist acrylics to replicate the appearance of the lead looks very good. From TFFM volume 2 page 73 by David Antscherl below for a sloop.
Allan
Allan
Both Allan and Iutar,
Thx again. Will implement it.
Marc
PS
Start now with the deadeye strops...will take some time.
Instead of gluing the round scruppers that came with the kit onto the Hull I worked something else out:
- purchase some 2mm diameter hollow tubes
- saw off 12 equal parts (5mm)
- paint them black
- make 2mm holes in the Hull at the designated place
- push them in and you're done...
And even if I say so myself it looks very nice...
Also started installing the deadeyes....lots of work...and precision required (work in progress)
See you soon
Marc
PS Iutar, see the eyebolts...
- purchase some 2mm diameter hollow tubes
- saw off 12 equal parts (5mm)
- paint them black
- make 2mm holes in the Hull at the designated place
- push them in and you're done...
And even if I say so myself it looks very nice...
Also started installing the deadeyes....lots of work...and precision required (work in progress)
See you soon
Marc
PS Iutar, see the eyebolts...
Dear Mark! When making scuppers on the deck, do not make holes in the waterway. Since the waterway was a power element of the structure, the scuppers were made in front of the waterway. David Antscherl is the author's contemporary and personal opinion; archival sources show the opposite.
Dear Iutar,
Again very valuable info and just in time..I already had my drill in my hands...
But so info is contradictory...
I will not make one, too bad, because it gives the model a more historical value...
Marc
Hi Iutar,
The drawings you posted above are very helpful for 19th century ships. The waterways on the Swan class (18t century) were quite different and less of a structural member than those that you show above, so the Antscherl drawings might be correct. The Antscherl drawing I show is pretty much a match in configuration to the drawings in Goodwin's The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War, page 209. Goodwin makes note that contemporary drawings and models rarely show the scuppers so if one is to leave them out altogether, they would not be alone.
Allan
The drawings you posted above are very helpful for 19th century ships. The waterways on the Swan class (18t century) were quite different and less of a structural member than those that you show above, so the Antscherl drawings might be correct. The Antscherl drawing I show is pretty much a match in configuration to the drawings in Goodwin's The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War, page 209. Goodwin makes note that contemporary drawings and models rarely show the scuppers so if one is to leave them out altogether, they would not be alone.
Allan
Last edited:
Hi MarcInstead of gluing the round scruppers that came with the kit onto the Hull I worked something else out:
- purchase some 2mm diameter hollow tubes
- saw off 12 equal parts (5mm)
- paint them black
- make 2mm holes in the Hull at the designated place
- push them in and you're done...
And even if I say so myself it looks very nice...
Also started installing the deadeyes....lots of work...and precision required (work in progress)
See you soon
Marc
PS Iutar, see the eyebolts...
View attachment 493738
View attachment 493739
View attachment 493740
View attachment 493741
View attachment 493742
View attachment 493743
I hope you have had a wonderful time over Christmas and I would like to wish you a happy and prosperous new year.
I missed most of your last posts and have been catching up with great interest. You are doing a superb job with this ship, it's very interesting to see the historical drawings.
Tony
HelLo everybody,
I spent previous week with the installation of the deadeyes...
The only "difficult" part is making the upper link of the chain plates...but no problems...
Now a little bit of paint and ready...
Cheers
Marc
I spent previous week with the installation of the deadeyes...
The only "difficult" part is making the upper link of the chain plates...but no problems...
Now a little bit of paint and ready...
Cheers
Marc