HMS Diana by Caldercraft

And again a small remark...installation of the Boomking......
Dear Mark! There is this photo:
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And again Caldecraft comes up with something. There shouldn't be such huge holes at the edges of the grate. People will die. The grate was either like in the picture below, or there was also a toilet ("seat to ease") there.

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Dear Mark! There is this photo:
View attachment 495566

And again Caldecraft comes up with something. There shouldn't be such huge holes at the edges of the grate. People will die. The grate was either like in the picture below, or there was also a toilet ("seat to ease") there.

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View attachment 495565

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Hello Iutar,
That all seems much more logical to me.
But because of the construction of the bow I could not attach the Boomkins behind the seats.....as shown on the pictures...
The person who build the Diana shown on the pictures on the lid of the box faced the same issue....
Ok, we continue... ;)
May I ask again something.
I have some confusion about the rigging of the 9lb cannons.
May I have your advice?

Thx

Marc

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Iutar, Allan,

Question: I do not find any advise in the instructions with regards to the color (paint) of the bowsprit and masts.
Only that the yards should be painted in black.
Could you please advise me about the colour?

Thx

Marc
 
Looking at contemporary model photos none of them has painted masts. Many have spars that are black and a few appear to have bow sprits that are black. One of the oddities that I discovered is that while the all the other yards were painted the crossjack was not. If it was just one model I would figure it was an exception, but I saw this on several contemporary models. Your choice:)
 
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Looking at contemporary model photos none of them has painted masts. Many have spars that are black and a few appear to have bow sprits that are black. One of the oddities that I discovered is that while the all the other yards were painted the crossjack was not. If it was must one model I would figure it was an exception, but I saw this on several contemporary models. Your choice:)
Well, the wood used is Birch so I will have to paint the masts otherwise it won't look good. Yellow Occre maybe?
 
the wood used is Birch so I will have to paint the masts otherwise it won't look good.
Your concern to get this right is great so go for what you feel is best. Looking at the common materials used for masts such as fir and pine (oak was not used for masts) the birch looks more like the type of wood actually used when compared to yellow ochre, but then again color vision is not one of my strengths. :) Maybe consider a coat of a stain that you like before adding the wooldings, wooden woolding hoops, cheeks, etc rather than using paint. The paint patch in the grouping below is just one artist acrylic. There are no doubt other brands and choices or you can mix your own shade.
Allan
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Good morning Marc. Wonderful progress on your Diana. I enjoy reading your log as I learn a lot from Allan and Iutar. The burning question is how far do we go modifying a kit to chase accuracy…….? I do believe if we want to build a 100% accurate ship we need to scratch build the ship as no kit gets it right. Kudos on chasing the desire and thanks to Allan, Iutar, Paul and others for contributing to this. Makes it interesting. Cheers Grant
 
Thx Allan....I don't know yet....
FWIW Marc, if your masts are close to the color of the birch patch I posted above, I really like the creamy color and especially lack of visible grain and would go with it as is. Again, totally your call, but it is a very pleasant color as is IMHO.
Allan
 
Good morning Marc. Wonderful progress on your Diana. I enjoy reading your log as I learn a lot from Allan and Iutar. The burning question is how far do we go modifying a kit to chase accuracy…….? I do believe if we want to build a 100% accurate ship we need to scratch build the ship as no kit gets it right. Kudos on chasing the desire and thanks to Allan, Iutar, Paul and others for contributing to this. Makes it interesting. Cheers Grant
Hey Grant,

I understand your point.
But I learned a lot from Allan and Iutar.
Just an example: Did you know how they stowed the sails? I did not. The drawing included a grating, but it was pulled by the hairs. A hatch in the deck is accurate and not at all difficult to make... So why do they provide a grating?
I found three blogs of Diana on the net and each model looked different...

So I prefer to ask ...;

Cheers

Marc
 
I found three blogs of Diana on the net and each model looked different...
The best models of her and her class are ones you can see on the RMG Collections site. Other than a few paint differences, they are virtually the same and both were made circa 1794 so I would guess trustworthy
Allan
 
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The tapering of the bowsprit and the bees look great. Sorry to ask as it comes up often, but will you be adding the second hole or re-rigging the fore course tack blocks?
Allan
 
Hello Allan,

Yes I will definitively add the second hole...
But I'm working in steps....
In fact I was busy with the complete rigging of the Canons. However, the blocks I bought earlier were really disappointing (they are made of hard cardboard...) so I ordered new blocks. In anticipation of this I started with the rough work of the masts and bowsprit...details will follow....

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I don't envy you rigging the cannon. The blocks are so small that it is a difficult task for many of us. At 1:64 the blocks will be about 1/8" (3mm) as the running tackle would be 2 inch circumference rope. My old eyes and fingers have a hard time with these small blocks. Maybe that is why so many contemporary models' guns are not rigged :) A note on the blocks, from The History of English Sea Ordnance, all of them are single blocks on guns smaller than 32 pounders according to Caruana. This makes things a little easier to rig not having to use any double blocks.
Allan
 
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