It becomes difficult to get the whole Diana on a picture.....
HMS Diana by Caldercraft
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Peterrson's sketches should be useful for Diana even though the book is based on a single contemporary model, Melampus (38) 1785. I would not rely solely on it for other rates/eras/nationalities. In addition to this limitation Petersson gives no line sizes and similar details. I am surprised you cannot find a European source as I am pretty sure James Lees is from the UK.
Allan
Allan
I'll try again...
Dear Allan,
I have a question for you. In the drawings of the Diana there is no rope provided for the attachment of the JIBOOM (example photo left). However, in all previous models I made I had to make such a rope connection. I would like your opinion eg should I add one (photo right).
I have a question for you. In the drawings of the Diana there is no rope provided for the attachment of the JIBOOM (example photo left). However, in all previous models I made I had to make such a rope connection. I would like your opinion eg should I add one (photo right).
I would love to try to help but we are near the end of a cruise right now and I am without my books. We dock tomorrow so I will TRY to get some information from my library when we get home and unpacked if no one else has provided the information you need.
Allan
Allan
this was my fore top gallant mast. 
Sorry for the delay in responding Vlieg
Looking at the drawings and text in Lees' The Masting and Rigging English Ships of War, there would be two jibboom irons plus a lashing that passed through a hole drilled halfway between the heel and the sheave between 1735 and 1815. After 1815, the hole was no longer drilled, but rather a groove cut on the top of the heel.
The below is from Lees' The Masting and Rigging English Ships of War. page 10.
Hope the following helps a little
Allan
Looking at the drawings and text in Lees' The Masting and Rigging English Ships of War, there would be two jibboom irons plus a lashing that passed through a hole drilled halfway between the heel and the sheave between 1735 and 1815. After 1815, the hole was no longer drilled, but rather a groove cut on the top of the heel.
The below is from Lees' The Masting and Rigging English Ships of War. page 10.
Hope the following helps a little
Allan
Even interrupted the assembly of the masts to make the yards. In doing so, you need to make the middle part of a few yards octagonal with a file? Since you always remove a (limited) amount of wood and are no longer fit with the unfiled part of the yards, I used a different technique.
See photo 2: I have sanded away 0.5 mm from the part that should be octagonal. Then I used strips of 0.5 x 3mm strips that I glued here so that you have a nice octagonal. Then lightly sand (still to be done) and done. Much nicer result than sanding directly.
See photo 2: I have sanded away 0.5 mm from the part that should be octagonal. Then I used strips of 0.5 x 3mm strips that I glued here so that you have a nice octagonal. Then lightly sand (still to be done) and done. Much nicer result than sanding directly.
That is a cool method for making those yard octagons Marc.
I did something similar for the 16 (hexadecimal) sided yards on mine. They are hard to distinguish the edges. Especially after they are painted black.
For the octagonal centered masts, have you (or any member) tried both the method you and Marc show as well as starting with square stock then making the full length in an octagon then rounding/tapering the outer portions? I am really curious to know which method is preferred by anyone who has tried both, and any issues with either method. I have only done this with the square stock method so far, but it has been many years since rigging a square rigger with this type of yard so any advice would be most welcome.
Thanks
Allan
I like your problem solving...
these methods are much better than sanding directly at the Yard
Before gluing the masts and attaching the schrouds, I first place the Hamrocks and support the life boat.
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very impressive!
Hi Allan
I have tried two methods
1. Start with oversized round stock and mill out the flats (octagon) then taper the outer portions in a lathe
2. Start with round stock and remove the centre portion and fill with flat slats/stock the width calculated based on the octagon formula (i previously posted in my Vanguard thread)
I have not started with square stock and filed down the peaks, probably because the kits don’t supply the square stock and it is not easily sourced. If you make your own lumber with Byrnes model machines or similar then this may be a better or acceptable method.
For octagon parts I preferred the results with milling the flats and achieved a cleaner result than with using slats, but for a 16 sided spar or yard I remain dissatisfied with either method’s results.
Thanks for your input, very much appreciated! I agree that this works well if square stock is not an alternative.
Allan
I totally agree Jack. This is “good ship.”
Octagonal the Yard Sections: Every time I used a file or sandpaper to octagonize the yards I sanded away too much wood so that the flat parts of the octagon were not flush with the yard...so I personally get a much nicer result with the slats...
A matter of preference? Try it....
Before attaching the schrouds I thought it would be a good idea to install the Hammock Cranes first (for accessibility reasons)...No schrouds in the way...
And luckily (just in time) I noticed that the Cranes are not symmetrical...a part protrudes from the railing...
And luckily (just in time) I noticed that the Cranes are not symmetrical...a part protrudes from the railing...