HMS Diana by Caldercraft

In the meantime I am busy with the rigging. I hope I don't come across as a whiner, but, I have again found several errors in the drawings regarding the rigging blocks....
For the rigging itself I first consult James Lees book, then the reference work on the Diana itself (Conway Anatomy of the Ship Diana) and only then the Caldercraft drawings....
See for example the Vang Pendants and the Boom Sheet, which I made according to the Anatomy of the Diana drawings.

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In the meantime I am busy with the rigging. I hope I don't come across as a whiner, but, I have again found several errors in the drawings regarding the rigging blocks....
For the rigging itself I first consult James Lees book, then the reference work on the Diana itself (Conway Anatomy of the Ship Diana) and only then the Caldercraft drawings....
See for example the Vang Pendants and the Boom Sheet, which I made according to the Anatomy of the Diana drawings.

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Beautiful Marc.
 
Living and learning here.... the posts in the gangways are new for me. I cannot find them in any of the original drawings, contemporary models or any contracts of that era so was wondering what these are and what line is belayed to them. See question mark below.
Many thanks Fly
Allan
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Model built circa 1794 of Diana does not show these posts
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Living and learning here.... the posts in the gangways are new for me. I cannot find them in any of the original drawings, contemporary models or any contracts of that era so was wondering what these are and what line is belayed to them. See question mark below.
Many thanks Fly
Allan
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Model built circa 1794 of Diana does not show these posts
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Hey Allan,

Concerning the Fore topsail yard tie...
This time I simply followed the Caldercraft instruction.

Anyway I find these back in the plans in the book "Anatomy of the Diana"...see diagrams with belaying locations above (nrs 50 - 11 - 25). So they were indeed there originally...

Cheers

Marc
 
Hi Fly!
Like you I have the Diana book but I cannot find a wooden post or rigging like this. Is the line belayed to the post the tack or tie halyard? Was there maybe a kevel on the bulwark rather than a post sticking up out of the gangway? I understand following the kit, but it is great to see you referencing Lees' and White's books as well.

Whatever the case was back then, your build is looking really well done.

Allan

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Hi Marc
They look like cavel blocks that would be attached to the bulwarks. This would confirm what Lees writes where he describes the tie halyards being belayed to cavel blocks based on ships built to the Establishments and in the 19th century later to cleats. Lifts were also sometimes belayed to cavel blocks according to the Establishments. The foreyard bowlines (17) were belayed to timber heads according to Lees, but they are shown being belayed at the bitt pins based on the model of Melampus in Petersson's Rigging Period Ship Models. Couple drawings from Rigging Period Ship Models that may be interesting follow
Allan
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From Lees' The Masting and Rigging English Ships of War
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Hi Marc
They look like cavel blocks that would be attached to the bulwarks. This would confirm what Lees writes where he describes the tie halyards being belayed to cavel blocks based on ships built to the Establishments and in the 19th century later to cleats. Lifts were also sometimes belayed to cavel blocks according to the Establishments. The foreyard bowlines (17) were belayed to timber heads according to Lees, but they are shown being belayed at the bitt pins based on the model of Melampus in Petersson's Rigging Period Ship Models. Couple drawings from Rigging Period Ship Models that may be interesting follow
Allan
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From Lees' The Masting and Rigging English Ships of War
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Hello Allan,
I don't understand why they provided this in the kit.

I can only agree with you and always follow your advice.
I also have not seen a model where these "blocks" were provided.
In the early building process I did not pay attention to them and placed them... Now I would not place them and place the rigging according to your comment...
I can't remove them without visible damage to the deck...so I leave them... Sick

Marc
 
Trick of the trade..... whenever possible I use pieces of copper wire and sheet metal instead of brass. It can be chemically blackened in situ with a touch of diluted liver of sulfur which will not stain the surrounding wood. A four once bottle will last ten lifetimes so if you want to ever give this a try, get the smallest container you can buy. :)
Allan
 
Trick of the trade..... whenever possible I use pieces of copper wire and sheet metal instead of brass. It can be chemically blackened in situ with a touch of diluted liver of sulfur which will not stain the surrounding wood. A four once bottle will last ten lifetimes so if you want to ever give this a try, get the smallest container you can buy. :)
Allan
Ok Allan, Hidden talent? :) :) :) :) :) :) :)
 
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