HMS Druid P.O.F. - Unicorn Models by Donnie [COMPLETED BUILD]

Donnie said:
John,
I am not sure. It has been almost a month since the last time I posted and is hard for me to back track to see what all has happened. It is possible that I might have deleted one of my posts to clean things up. I do not remember - my apologies.

I have to continue with my progress as it has been a long time since I worked on the ship.

These are the images of the gun ports. They come in 4 pieces and you MUST pay attention to the orientation of the curvature of the sides of the ports as the SIDES of the ports will follow the same curvature of the frame. The ports are NOT square but have a SMALL amount of curvature to them.

View attachment 242163View attachment 242164
Click to expand...
What is the old saying about getting old, first to go is memory, and then....well I can't remember what is next...…

Kurt, I think that's my name.

Great work Donnie.
 
Thank you all again for the compliments. I have completed the other side of Gun Ports. I am now working on the transom and will show pics of that in a while.
There is another layer of Wales that will be installed soon as well. I can not decide if to leave the Wales natural or paint them black.



gp-11.jpg


gp-12.jpg
 
Thank you Mike. I still have not decided - a little more thinking on it.

Now this shows the stern with three pieces so far added. The three pieces are at the rudder section. Sanding will need to be done where the Wales meets the stern pieces to give it better finished look.

stern01.jpg
 
To me the quality and fitment of those stern windows are streets ahead of many fancied and popular kits out there. In fact, there is nothing that shows up a lack of realism and incorrect scaling more than stern windows. And to be honest, there are very few kits that get this right - those look wonderful! :)
 
Thank you Heinrich. I really appreciate the compliments.
Continuation of building up the Stern. My apologies for the camera focus problem. I should know better than that since I was the one that wrote the article on photographing your ship --- LOL Shame on me --- ;)
Well, the problem is that the image was taken in very poor lighting.

stern03.jpg

stern04.jpg
 
Donnie, I hope you are collecting all the Pearwood sawdust for the finishing touches between those stern planks. The colour of that Pear seems to be the same as the ones on my sampan - love it! Thumbs-Up
 
Hi Donnie!

I've been shooting with a 12-32 mm lens lately and have barrel distortion in the images because of it. Nothing is properly edge-parallel and some things look crooked. It's not just the lack of light. Your photos shown are very good and have no distortion!
The stern of the "Druid" is great and I like it very much!

Best regards
Thomas
 
This is rather Off-Topic:

I did have a 'shot box' but it was rather large - that was back when it seemed that I had more room. It had a lot of light and really made the photos like they are supposed to be. I also used a canon Rebel T3i -- It really makes me cringe to look at these two that I took as they look too pasty (blurry). But thanks for the compliments. The stern is a whole lot smoother and the strips are very tight with no gaps. However, the camera and lack of lighting and shadows or something make that stern look horrible.

Pictures don't lie and in this case - I have to revisit.
I have a Canon Rebel T3i. But, I had modified the camera for IR photography of which I should not have done. I know that I can put a filter in it to restore it - but the filter is like around $200 USD - I had modified the camera at the time a few years ago as I was trying out Astrophotography and in order to get the best results, you have to make the camera a FULL Spectrum camera to take good pics of the night sky. I now regret that.
The point and shoot that I am using is great for outdoors, but it has some serious limitations doing inside photos. The camera also has this AUTOFOCUS that drives me crazy that there is NO way to turn it off. I have read the manual - when you are doing up close stuff with the point and shoot, the lens keeps locking on parts of the image that you DO NOT want in focus.
 
Donnie said:
This is rather Off-Topic:

I did have a 'shot box' but it was rather large - that was back when it seemed that I had more room. It had a lot of light and really made the photos like they are supposed to be. I also used a canon Rebel T3i -- It really makes me cringe to look at these two that I took as they look too pasty (blurry). But thanks for the compliments. The stern is a whole lot smoother and the strips are very tight with no gaps. However, the camera and lack of lighting and shadows or something make that stern look horrible.

Pictures don't lie and in this case - I have to revisit.
I have a Canon Rebel T3i. But, I had modified the camera for IR photography of which I should not have done. I know that I can put a filter in it to restore it - but the filter is like around $200 USD - I had modified the camera at the time a few years ago as I was trying out Astrophotography and in order to get the best results, you have to make the camera a FULL Spectrum camera to take good pics of the night sky. I now regret that.
The point and shoot that I am using is great for outdoors, but it has some serious limitations doing inside photos. The camera also has this AUTOFOCUS that drives me crazy that there is NO way to turn it off. I have read the manual - when you are doing up close stuff with the point and shoot, the lens keeps locking on parts of the image that you DO NOT want in focus.
Click to expand...
I am not familiar with the T3i specifically, but all the other Cannons auto focus I have used had a slide switch on either the lens or body to turn AF off.
 
Thank you all. Yes, I am aware of the T3i switch on the side. It is my Point and Shoot Canon HXS740 that seems not to have any way of turning off the AF.
 
Thanks alot for all your pictures. It really helps me. Your the expert, I'm just learning by doing. Nice summer from Sweden / gotland
 
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