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HMS ENTERPRISE 1774 by RichardJJS 1:48 scale. New Kit from M.D

Corsair said:
It's not mentioned in the instructions, but there are 2 templates. One goes on the bottom and one goes on the back and they will give you the taper. :)
They are L6-1 and L6-2
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thought i was being stupid but i see what you mean but it still doesnt say how far into the deadwod the taper goes is it jusr E18 and E15
 
richardjjs said:
thought i was being stupid but i see what you mean but it still doesnt say how far into the deadwod the taper goes is it jusr E18 and E15
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The whole deadwood is tapered, top to bottom back to front using the parts L6 1 and 2 as a guide. Put L6 1 on the stern post and L6 2 along the bottom and sand to the lines showing the taper
 
I do understand about the trimming this was not what i wanted its how far into the deadwood the tapering goes
Is it just that section ie E1-15 (2) and E1-13(2) or does it gradually go int dead wood

I presume its for the Planking to come down into the Rabbit I think its shown by the arrows Going into the Deadwood

Dificult to explain or am i being to perdantic and making something Easy Difficult

Same problem with Cutwater at Bow

Thanks

IMG_20250702_192603.jpg

TinyTake01-07-2025-11-42-04.png
 
richardjjs said:
I do understand about the trimming this was not what i wanted its how far into the deadwood the tapering goes
Is it just that section ie E1-15 (2) and E1-13(2) or does it gradually go int dead wood

I presume its for the Planking to come down into the Rabbit I think its shown by the arrows Going into the Deadwood

Dificult to explain or am i being to perdantic and making something Easy Difficult

Same problem with Cutwater at Bow

Thanks

View attachment 529687

View attachment 529688
Click to expand...
Yes. It goes all the way into the deadwood from top to bottom and front to back. A very slight taper.
 
Corsair said:
only taper it with the parts shown in step 13. You will add more parts in the next step and put a slight taper into those as well. :)
Click to expand...

Quite Urgent My thoughts on this ARE
I have started the trimming was waiting for tomorrow (Its 0200 here )
Looking at step 36 it looks as though the REar Hawse pieces (A19, F2 A, B and C eventually Fit Flat on the dead wood so this must not be trimmed as we need the full 8mm
with G1, 8 and 10 the so that trimming really is in that area
However if you look at Y8 to Y1 (all approx)
Y8 at the top of slot is 8 mm and the bottom of the Slot is 5.0 mm
Y5 at the top of slot is 8 mm and the bottom of the slot is 6.5 mm
Y1 at the top of slot is 8 mm and the bottom of the slot is 8.0 mm
So the lower part of the DEadwood will need trimming up a bit
Am i Overthinking all this or do we need to assemble Y1 - Y8 to allow temporary fitting before we start fitting the other frames
I am just trying to avoid having to trim the Rear Deadwood after its fitted to the keel
(This is what i was trying to do with Forward Cutwater and deadwood)
THe parts G1 8 and 10 i guess need trimming including but NOT the top as the secure the FRames
It looks as though the Deadwood needs trimming from the keel (as we know - up to the top of the deadwood (Part A-2) which is 8 mm so the frames Y1 - Y8 slide down

SORRY IF I AM OVER THINKING just tying to get it right (Have any of us actually had this depth of detail in a POF Model (I know Keef has done 3 including Blandford which does not need the trimming )

Need you guys thoughts on this before i go further - Need to consider the Haws construction tomorrow)
 
richardjjs said:
Quite Urgent My thoughts on this ARE
I have started the trimming was waiting for tomorrow (Its 0200 here )
Looking at step 36 it looks as though the REar Hawse pieces (A19, F2 A, B and C eventually Fit Flat on the dead wood so this must not be trimmed as we need the full 8mm
with G1, 8 and 10 the so that trimming really is in that area
However if you look at Y8 to Y1 (all approx)
Y8 at the top of slot is 8 mm and the bottom of the Slot is 5.0 mm
Y5 at the top of slot is 8 mm and the bottom of the slot is 6.5 mm
Y1 at the top of slot is 8 mm and the bottom of the slot is 8.0 mm
So the lower part of the DEadwood will need trimming up a bit
Am i Overthinking all this or do we need to assemble Y1 - Y8 to allow temporary fitting before we start fitting the other frames
I am just trying to avoid having to trim the Rear Deadwood after its fitted to the keel
(This is what i was trying to do with Forward Cutwater and deadwood)
THe parts G1 8 and 10 i guess need trimming including but NOT the top as the secure the FRames
It looks as though the Deadwood needs trimming from the keel (as we know - up to the top of the deadwood (Part A-2) which is 8 mm so the frames Y1 - Y8 slide down

SORRY IF I AM OVER THINKING just tying to get it right (Have any of us actually had this depth of detail in a POF Model (I know Keef has done 3 including Blandford which does not need the trimming )

Need you guys thoughts on this before i go further - Need to consider the Haws construction tomorrow)
Click to expand...
It's good to think ahead, but you are looking at things months away. At the moment, as long as Step 8 A,B,C and D (Fore Deadwood) and Step 13 A and B, Step 14 C and D (stern Deadwood) are completed correctly this is all you need worry about. Get the keel made and fitted into the jig, as long as the steps mentioned are good the frames and hawse pieces should fit (with maybe some fine tuning necessary to the base of the frames but you will only see that when you get to that point. RELAX and don't over think
 
I can't answer your question because I've not progressed to step 36. I'm just finishing up step 28.
Wood is easy to work with. If I need to make adjustments to make things fit later on, it's easy to do.
 
Found some great clamps for the Frames
Been having problems with the Glue but have stopped Cleaning up the Joints and glue both parts and use Keef's idea of Sellotape then clamp
I am doing 1 pair of joints at a time and letting it set
Seems like its really strong

MyFRame 043 (1).jpg

MyFRame 043 (2).jpg
 
AS you know ive not been sure about the Stern Deadwood
I know i was not sure about how far into the deadwood i should trim the stern and deadwood
The frames Y1 - Y8 Must lie flat and as we get nearer the stern the gap between the top of Y frames is 8mm (is same as the Deadwood
but it narrows at the lower part the nearer the stern we get
Y8 is about 6mm so that part of the deadwood needs to be 6mm (Tapering up to 8mm
Took all this into consideration as i sandpapered the deadwood
Incidentally the 1 and 2 jigs are over 3mm and need a bit of triming

Ive tapered the keel and fitted the parts G1 G8 9 and waiting for it to dry
and then taper to 4 mm
It looks good so far

IMG_20250704_193647.jpg
 
Not sure if you are talking Stern or Frames

But its bit late now its all stuck
Note ive still got to lift the upper frames in and ive moved 04 (second picture ) down slighly so it lines up with the dashes

Its also too late for the stern as its also glued up

Could have given me a clue as i will not be able to sleep
 
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