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HMS ENTERPRISE 1774 by RichardJJS 1:48 scale. New Kit from M.D

All going OK
Thought I would look at doing something completely different So Bought a 3D Printer Impressed so far
Lots of Naval bits to build (And Navel !!)
But also started the Fore Platform for a change
THe parts E2 2,3,4,5 all have 4 mm slots for the joining parts
It says use 4x3 But the parts are 4mm so It looks as though they should be 4x4
3mm Sideways is not right
Any body got that far
anythoughts while i get back to FRAMES
thanks

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That's a bit annoying, mate. Did you check numbers of those carlings twice?
That' a bit annoying, mate. Did you check those parts number twice, at least?
 
Yes All parts are ttally right it says on the arrow going out to the left side 4 x 3 strips
And the Shaped frames are 4mm as well
All cutting is done on main E2 16 - 13
WAiting to see if anybody else has done it
Thanks
Nothing to do but have them from scratch, then...
 
All going OK
Thought I would look at doing something completely different So Bought a 3D Printer Impressed so far
Lots of Naval bits to build (And Navel !!)
But also started the Fore Platform for a change
THe parts E2 2,3,4,5 all have 4 mm slots for the joining parts
It says use 4x3 But the parts are 4mm so It looks as though they should be 4x4
3mm Sideways is not right
Any body got that far
anythoughts while i get back to FRAMES
thanks

View attachment 540053

View attachment 540054

View attachment 540055

View attachment 540056

View attachment 540057
Have you looked at this
Very strange
The top 2 Pictures shoe a gap at the Top of the Platform And the Spar
The bottom two show a Gap between the Spar
Obviously Bottom is wrong
Instruction say use a 4 x3 But it looks like 4x4
 
Just watched the 1:96 Video and YES there is a gap
On 1:96 the Frame is 2mm and the Carlings are 1.5 so that's correct with a gap at the top
Interestingly he use thin CA Glue My Plans are all in sleeves that go in a binder so stop the glue sticking
Using Gorilla Wood Glue
as there is room and it is easy to adjust after its set with at Heat Gun
ONWARD AND UPWARD
 
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Needed a break from Frames so Ive Built a Platform

I do not have the skills to cut the slots in the carlins in But i think it looks OK

Fore Orlp Platform.jpg
 
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Just watched the 1:96 Video and YES there is a gap
On 1:96 the Frame is 2mm and the Carlings are 1.5 so that's correct with a gap at the top
Interestingly he use thin CA Glue My Plans are all in sleeves that go in a binder so stop the glue sticking
ONWARD AND UPWARD
The 1/96 build not withstanding, everything I’ve ever seen indicates they should be level with beams.
IMHO, do NOT use thin CA, it migrates everywhere and makes a far weaker bond, use medium or even thick.
They stay where put, allow adjustment, and are gap filling.
I have extensive CA experience and actually am about 1/2 way along installing all of the deck clamps using medium and will do exterior planking with it as well. Just remember a little dab goes a long way. Also use it only with long thin extender tips allowing very precise application.

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Looking very nice indeed. I'm part way throught the 1:96 boxwood version and would like to ask you how you faired the interior bow and stern frames once assembled, and whether you could get a flat and level transition from frame to frame?

Richard
 
Looking very nice indeed. I'm part way throught the 1:96 boxwood version and would like to ask you how you faired the interior bow and stern frames once assembled, and whether you could get a flat and level transition from frame to frame?

Richard
Not got that far yet Interesting to here how others dod it
Guess it wil be easier on 1:48 as there is more room
 
The 1/96 build not withstanding, everything I’ve ever seen indicates they should be level with beams.
IMHO, do NOT use thin CA, it migrates everywhere and makes a far weaker bond, use medium or even thick.
They stay where put, allow adjustment, and are gap filling.
I have extensive CA experience and actually am about 1/2 way along installing all of the deck clamps using medium and will do exterior planking with it as well. Just remember a little dab goes a long way. Also use it only with long thin extender tips allowing very precise application.

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Sorry I am talking about the Orlop For PLatform
Just wanted to do something different
Ive not used CA just said whet the guy doing the 1:98 used
Ive used Gorilla Wood Glue and Titebond
But will agre on CA Type
 
Looking very nice indeed. I'm part way throught the 1:96 boxwood version and would like to ask you how you faired the interior bow and stern frames once assembled, and whether you could get a flat and level transition from frame to frame?

Richard
Not sure if that was directed at me, but it boils down to lots of sanding.
Most of it gets you pretty close using the Wen hand held belt sander that I posted an image of a while back, using finer belts( easy to go too far with a heavy hand, you have to keep it moving). It reduces effort substantially.
Your task is harder given you have a much smaller space and box is that much harder, just no substitute for time.
 
Not sure if that was directed at me, but it boils down to lots of sanding.
Most of it gets you pretty close using the Wen hand held belt sander that I posted an image of a while back, using finer belts( easy to go too far with a heavy hand, you have to keep it moving). It reduces effort substantially.
Your task is harder given you have a much smaller space and box is that much harder, just no substitute for time.
Thanks, I'll have to look into that. I've not tried belt sanders before.
 
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