HMS Victory by Y.T.- Mamoli - 1:90 scale

[ken s]

Did you only get 1 bag of green plates? Sure doesn't look enough to me.
Thanks, Ken

 

[Y.T.]

Did you only get 1 bag of green plates?

I had 1 bag. It was more than enough. I had some leftover. You can try estimating how many you need. Try weighing a hundred plates and then weigh whole bag. From this you will figure out total length.

 

[ken s]

I started to count them, but eventually said heck with that.....Since already started,,, just keep going. Thank you for prompt response, Ken

 

[JScolum]

Odpowiedź zespołu renowacyjnego z HMS Victory na naszą prośbę o kolor.
Poniżej znajdują się kody kolorów pantone dostarczane przez Zespół Ochrony Historycznych Statków dla kadłuba. Możesz zobaczyć odcienie w zasięgu zawarte na stronie: http://46.16.232.131/freemium.html
Victory Hull Ochre. NCS S 3020-Y40R
Czarny kadłub to: NCS S 8500-N

Inne standardowe farby to: -
Czarna farba do „ślusarstwa” (Admiralty Paints: Matt (Metal) Black, AP9106)
Biała farba (farby admiralicji: Matt White, AP9111)
Francuska farba niebieska (farby admiralicji: francuski niebieski, AP9117)
Czerwona ochra (Admiralty Paints: Red Ochre, AP9116)
Farba miedziana (Admiralty Paints: Copper, AP9126)
Złota farba (farby admiralicji: złoto / mosiądz, AP9125)
Farba w kolorze brązowym (drewno / skóra) (farby admiralicji: drewno (orzech) brązowy, AP9119)

 

[Y.T.]

I had an issue with steps on outside of the hull for entry onto the ship from outside. My kit gave me a walnut wood angle profile 3 x 3 mm overall size. See attached.

 

[Y.T.]

This looks good enough but each step must be parallel to ground. Ship hull has curvature. Angle profile must be grinded to match the hull curvature. As result nothing is left from one flange of this angle at some most curvy parts of hull. I decided I cannot use the angle profile. So I had to come up with something else. After pondering over this issue for a few days I decided making these steps as a composition of two 1 mm thick wood profiles. This is what I got.

 

[Jimsky]

Excellent, very clean and accurate work.

 

[Y.T.]

I think it is much closer representation of actual steps. When producing bottom profile I used this self made jig. I remember someone on forums showed a similar jig sold on eBay. They asked if it is worthy item to buy. Then I commented I doubted it could work. Now I made up similar jig on my own. Guys it really works. I recommend this.

 

[Y.T.]

Here I am comparing the deadeye chain plates. On the left is one from kit. On the right is one I just scratch built. It will be blackened later of course. Which one looks more appealing to you? Buy the way this is my first experience with silver soldering after I learned it thru Jimsky videos.

 

[ken s]

How are yo going to do the yellow/black striping? Your wales don't line up. Look at fig 318. Isn't the black wales supposed to run into the black part of the stern. (below and in between windows.)

 

[ken s]

How are yo going to do the yellow/black striping? Your wales don't line up. Look at fig 318. Isn't the black wales supposed to run into the black part of the stern. (below and in between windows.)

I've been looking at other builds then at the box, They're all over the place. Make sense,,,, kinda?

 

[Y.T.]

Had redone the steps. Did not like first version.

 

[Y.T.]

How are yo going to do the yellow/black striping? Your wales don't line up.

This is this ship feature. Wales do NOT match with painted stripes.

 

[Jimsky]

Here I am comparing the deadeye chainplates. On the left is one from the kit. On the right is one I just scratch built. It will be blackened later of course. Which one looks more appealing to you? Buy the way this is my first experience with silver soldering

Hello Y.T. Your first soldering experience looks very good. However, the chainplate on the left (kit supplied) to me - oversized, and scratch-build is a bit undersized. You may want to find a wire the size in between those two. While it looks undersized to me, the nails head add to this. If you make a decision to go with the one you scratch build, consider finding nails with the smaller head for sure. Hope you don't mind my comments.

 

[Y.T.]

Thanks Jim. You might be right. I already ordered a wire with diameter in between these two. The nails are much bigger problem. I have no idea where to find ones with small heads.

 

[Kurt Konrath]

I like the black wash on grates, makes them look used and weathered a bit, but not heavy painted.

I like your home made chain plate much better than kit supplied.

 

[Jimsky]

The nails are much bigger problem. I have no idea where to find ones with small heads.

One of the ways to make the head smaller is to tight the pin (nail) in your roto tool, while it is rotated, touch the head against sandpaper laying flat on a hard surface. It will shave the head and make it smaller.

 

[Y.T.]

I just scratch built (carved in wood) my master rigols which I will replicate by casting epoxy putty into mould.

 

[Jimsky]

Awesome Y/T. you are catching up really fast. So...now... we know you are a carver!!! Great job!! Please share the process\tools you have used. I guess I am not the only one would be happy to see\know about it.

 

[Y.T.]

Hi Jim. It will be my pleasure to explain. I started with drawing rigols to my 1:90 scale in AutoCAD. I printed them on paper with laser printer. Then I glued images on wood sheet. I used coffee stirring sticks for wood. Then I saw them out on scroll saw. I used tiny jeweller saw blade.





Then I filed the shapes around with needle files. For the groove along rigol profiles I used Dremel carving tool with tiny round tip. Tool was propelled by Proxxon rotary tool with Proxxon bore extension. For final finishing I used sharpened broken off tip of blade #11. See below.